Process Flow Chart of Textile Finishing Process

Textile finishing usually includes treatments such as scouring, bleaching, dyeing and/or printing, the final mechanical or chemical finishing operations, that during this stage are carried out on textile products (staple, sliver or top, yarns or filaments, woven or knitted fabrics) to enhance their basic characteristics like dye penetration, printability, wettability, colour, hand, and appearance.

By textile finishing, we also mean all the processing operations that, though included in the socalled finishing stage, are generally applied to the fabrics to improve their appearance, hand and properties, at times in accordance with their field of application.

The finishing stage plays a fundamental role in the excellency of the commercial results of textiles, which strictly depend on market requirements that are becoming increasingly stringent and unpredictable, permitting very short response times for textile manufacturers.

The latest machines on the market used for finishing operations generally offer multi-purpose applications; the flexibility and versatility features of these machines are uninterruptedly evolving to grant excellent consistency of the results.

Finishing operations can be carried out by means of discontinuous, continuous and semicontinuous systems.
 

Discontinuous or Batch-type Systems: 

All the operations are carried out on a single machine; it is therefore necessary to load the machine, carry out the treatments following a predetermined cycle, unload the machine and finally wash it thoroughly before starting a new cycle. This working process is extremely flexible and is suitable for processing small lots: for example, it is possible to a carry out a scouring treatment on a single machine, then a bleaching one followed by a dyeing process. For the production of large lots, the discontinuous process is labour-intensive, i.e. it requires many operators to load and unload the material; it also entails long processing times and results that can vary from one batch to another.

Continuous Systems: 

The operations are carried out by means of a series of machines; every machine carries out always and solely the same process. Every machine is assembled according to specific production requirements. A system like this entails high start-up costs and a complex setup but once the system has started, it requires a smaller staff and grants excellent repeatability and high output rates; continuous systems are therefore suitable for manufacturing large lots of products with the highest cost-efficiency.

Semi-continuous Systems: 

In these mixed systems several operations are carried out with both continuous and discontinuous machines. For example, a continuous pad-batch machine is used to wet the fabric and a discontinuous system is then used for other treatments. These mixed systems are suitable for processing small and medium lots; they require reasonable start-up costs and grant quite good reproducibility. 

The Textile Finishing Stage:

Textile Softening | Fabric Softening Process | Types ofSoftener/Softening Agents

Softening
As a general rule, each fibre has its specific softness value, which depends on its chemical composition and physical structure (less crystallinity = greater softness). The fineness of the fibre or of the filament directly affects the softness of the yarn (woollens, worsteds, microfibers etc.). The yarn twist ratio is inversely proportional to its softness.

The weave also contributes to reducing (closer weave = cloth) or increasing (looser weave = satin) the fabric softness. Furthermore, a greater number of yarns per centimetre increase the stiffness of the fabric, thus reducing its softness.

Softening is carried out when the softness characteristics of a certain fabric must be improved, always carefully considering the composition and properties of the substrate. It is also worth underlining that no standard methods have been developed and established to determine exactly what the softness of a fabric is. This evaluation is therefore almost personal and carried out on the basis of operator.s experience. It is anyway possible to distinguish between many types of softness:

a) surface softness,
b) surface smoothness,
c) elasticity (to compression and stretching).

Fabric Softening Process:
To change the hand properties of a fabric, we can apply mechanical, physical, chemical or combined techniques; some of these methods (sueding, raising) have already been explained in detail in previous sections of this handbook, while some others refers to machines that give different degrees of softness, by means of high-speed rope processing in wet or dry conditions, with the drying stage carried out during the treatment (with or without softeners or enzymes.)

The functional core of these machines are the two tunnels where the fabric is fed through two Venturi tubes. The energy applied for drawing the material is produced only by air and pressure. The fabric flowing through the Venturi tubes is pushed at high speed against a grid on the machine rear side; the fabric then slides on Teflon-coated chutes and reaches the machine front side to start the cycle again; the fabric can reach a speed of 1000 m/min., depending on the type and weight of the different textiles to be processed and according to the desired results. 

Schemes of fabric softening machines

This unit applies physical and mechanical principles on fundamental elements such as: 

• air, which is the fabric propeller and drawing element; 
• the mechanical stress exerted on the fabric inside the Venturi tubes and the stress due to the impact against the rear grid; 
•  the eventual action of heat.

It is also worth noticing that water is not a crucial element for the process; it is only a medium for carrying dissolved non biodegradable chemical additives (if required.) The combination of all these elements, almost free of polluting charge, cause the structural modification of the fibres making up the fabric.

They result in more or less marked surface modifications, which can radically change the appearance and the sensorial properties of the fabrics. The complexity of the finishing action starts inside the Venturi tube where the tail of the fabric is subjected simultaneously to a compressive action and to a subsequent series of vibrating pulses which tend to “random-modify” and compact the textile structures, eventually giving them different properties.

The one-way thrusting force is transformed into a impact force against the grid on which the fabric is pushed when emerging from the Venturi tube; this causes other modifications of the fabric and add structural and surface effects.

This simple treatment that combines physical and mechanical principles, carried out at a precise temperature set by the operator, is sufficient to create particular effects on the morphology of fibres and the weave. The modifications produced by this treatment are very different and not only affect the colour, appearance and hand properties of the fabric, but also add new properties, e.g. modifying the refraction and diffraction of light on the fabric surface.

The most notable effects in terms of style and added value are obtained on linen, a precious delicate fibre, particularly difficult to process without using chemicals.

The combination of a chemical product or an enzyme liquor with the mechanical treatment can be carried out not only on linen but also on many other widely used fibres such as Tencel and polynosic fibres, imparting a draping, full and lively hand.

All these effects are obtained thanks to the air thrust and to the following impact against the grid, or to the pressure of rollers on the fabric rope. Comparing the effects of this treatment on a Tencel fabric and on a similar treatment carried out on a dyeing machine, we can see that, as previously explained, this finishing process not only affects the appearance of the fabric, but also .cleans up. the fabric surface homogeneously, as a result providing good anti-pilling properties.

The best softness results can be obtained by carrying out the above mentioned physical mechanical processes and by applying a special chemical softening agent.

As a general rule, the softening agents applied are hygroscopic or lubricating agents, which facilitate the fibre sliding within the fabric structure, thus granting easier deformation and creasing of the fabric. In most cases, the duration of the effect is limited since the products applied during the treatment are eliminated by subsequent washing; for this reason they must be applied in the final stage of the treatment. The most common softeners are below:

1. Non-ionic Softener
2. Anionic Softener
3. Cationic Surfactants
4. Silicone-Based Softeners
5. Reactive Softeners

Non-ionic Softeners: 

Generally ethers and polyglycol esters, oxiethylates products, paraffins and fats. These softening agents are generally less efficient than anionic and cationic ones but they withstand the effects of hard waters, acid or basic environment and also in presence of cations and anions, therefore the normal fabric care conditions.

Anionic Softeners: 

Sulphoricinates, anionic surfactants produced by the condensation of fatty acids. They have good characteristics as lubricating softening agents and give the fabric a full hand; they are unstable in hard water and acid environment. In addition, they must not cause yellowing at condensation temperatures.

Cationic Surfactants: 

Usually they are quaternary ammonium salts, amino-esters and amino amides; they are recommended for all types of fibre, and can be also applied with exhaustion process in acid environment (pH 4-5). These are the best softening agents and are also called molecular velveting. Agents because they form bonds with the cationic group on the surface of the fibre generally with negative electric potential. They can give some problem in presence of large anions, and they can cause dye toning, or a reduction in fastness to light values in the presence of direct and reactive dyes; they also have a high polluting charge as waste water (bactericides).

Silicone-Based Softeners: 

These are generally polysiloxane derivatives of low molecular weight. They are insoluble in water, and therefore must be applied on fabrics after dissolution in organic solvents, or in the form of disperse products. They feature quite good fastness to washing. They create a lubricating and moderately waterproof film on the surface and give fabrics a velvetysilky hand (desirable for velvets, upholstery fabrics and emerised fabrics)

Reactive Softeners: 

N-methylol derivatives of superior fatty amides or urea compounds replaced with fatty acids. The products have to be cross-linked and provide permanent softness and water repellency.

As explained previously, even though some softeners can be applied with exhaustion processes on yarns, when softening fabrics, the best technique is the continuous pad-wetting process followed by a drying stage in a stenter. This treatment must be carried out at the end of the finishing process; for this reason, softening is usually performed simultaneously with other dimensional stability processes (width stabilisation, weft and warp straightening). It is worth remembering that the use of softeners can reduce the fastness to rubbing of synthetic fibres dyed with disperse dyes, as the fatty surface layer tend to attract the dye molecules after hot treatments. 

Raising or Napping Finishing | Working Process of Raising FinishingProcess

Raising or Napping

A finishing process that raises the surface fibers of a fabric by means of passage over rapidly revolving cylinders covered with metal points or teasel burrs. Outing, flannel, and wool broadcloth derive their downy appearance from this finishing process. Napping is also used for certain knit goods, blankets, and other fabrics with a raised surface.

The raising process is a very old technique known also to Romans (as pictured in some paintings found in Pompeii). This operation is particularly suitable for wool and cotton fabrics; it gives a fuzzy surface by abrading the cloth and pulling the fibre end to the surface. During those last years this process has also been applied on polyester/viscose blends and acrylic fabrics. 

By means of this process a hairy surface can be given to both face and back of the cloth providing several modifications of the fabric appearance, softer and fuller hand and bulk increase. This enhances the resistance of the textile material to atmospheric agents, by improving thermal insulation and warmth provided by the insulating air cells in the nap. The fuzzy surface is created by pulling the fibre end out of the yarns by means of metal needles provided with hooks shelled into the rollers that scrape the fabric surface. The ends of the needles protruding from the rollers are 45°-hooks; their thickness and length can vary and they are fitted in a special rubber belt spiral-wound on the raising rollers. These rollers are generally alternated with a roller with hooks directed toward the fabric feed direction (pile roller), and a roller with the hooks fitted in the opposite direction (counterpile roller).

Raising rollers

The machine also includes some rotating brushes, which suction-clean the nibs in pile and counterpile directions. Actually the trend goes towards a ratio of raising rollers/pile rollers equal or 1/3. The two series of rollers have independent motion and can rotate with different speed and direction thus carrying out different effects.

Raising (napping) machine

1: roller; 

2: rollers equipped with hooks;
3: fabric;

4: nib cleaning brushes;

5: fabric tension adjustment

The action of these systems is almost powerful and the results depend upon the effects and the type of fabric desired . The raising effect can be obtained by adjusting the fabric tension (5) or by adjusting the speed and the roller rotation direction (2).

Once a certain limit has been exceeded, the excessive mechanical stress could damage the fabric: it is therefore better, when carrying out a powerful raising, to pass the wet fabric through the raising machine many times (dry when processing cotton fabrics) and treat the fabrics in advance with softening-lubricating agents. 

Raising the face of the fabric

The pile extraction is easier when carried out on single fibres: it is therefore suitable to reduce the friction between the fibres by wetting the material or, in case of cellulose fibres, by previously steaming the fabric. For the same reasons, it is better to use slightly twisted yarns.

The same machine allows different options of independent motions:  

1. Fabric moving between entry and exit 

2. Motion of large drum 

3. Motion of raising rollers

The raising intensity can be adjusted by suitably combining the above mentioned independent motions, the tension of the textile material, the number of .pilewise. or . counterpile. raising rollers and their relative speed. It is possible to obtain .combed pile. raising effect, “semi-felting” effect with fibres pulled out and re-entered in the fabric, and complete felting effect.

The raising machine is equipped with two overlapping drums each one featuring 24 rollers, which can process two faces or face and back of the same fabric. The drums assembled on a standard machine can rotate separately one from the other in the fabric feeding direction or in the opposite direction by carrying out a counter rotation. In this model all the functions are carefully monitored and controlled by a computer system; in particular all the commands are driven by alternating power motors controlled by “Sensorless” vector inverters. 

The control electric system features:
1).  PLC programmable controller for machine and alarms automation; 

2).  Touch screen to program and update all processing parameters; 

3). Operating conditions of each single raising process (up to one million .recipes”) that can be stored to facilitate the batch reproduction. 

Furthermore, a series of special pressure rollers can be assembled on the feeding cylinders to prevent the fabric from sliding, thus granting an extremely smooth raising. The raising process ability lies merely in raising the desired quantity of fibre ends without excessively reducing the fabric resistance. For this reason, the technique applying the alternated use of pile and counterpile rollers is the most widely used since it minimises the loss of fibres from the fabric and the consequent resistance reduction.

Standard raising machines have been designed to work with fabrics powerfully tensioned essentially because they are not equipped with an efficient and reliable tension control. 

This gives rise to the effects detailed below:

1) The contact surface between the fabric and the raising cylinders is quite small;
2) The hook nibs work only superficially on the fabric and the raising effect is quite reduced;
3) The fabric width is drastically reduced.

The above mentioned inconveniences have now been eliminated thanks to the last generation of raising machines, which reduce the number of passages and carry out the raising process by gently tensioning the fabric.

Textile Washing Treatment | Sequence of the Washing Steps | Types ofWashing | Textile Washing Process

Washing in Textile

Rinsing and washing are the operations carried out most frequently during a complete textile finishing cycle. They are almost always connected to key treatments and aimed at removing from the fabric insoluble matters, matters already in solution or an emulsion of other impurities. During the fabric preparation process, for example, washing is carried out after desizing, boiling and other bleaching and mercerising processes; in dyeing, the washing stage is necessary to complete the dyeing process itself or to eliminate the dyestuff which has not been fixed; during the printing stage, washing performs a finishing action. When using vat dyes or disperse dyes, the washing process aims at removing insoluble pigment substances from the fibre surface by means of wetting or dissolving agents.

This could therefore be considered a crucial treatment in the whole textile process, because of the frequent use and strong economic impact. Manufacturers increasingly focus their attention on reducing water consumption, which leads to subsequent energy and hot water saving as well as a reduction in wastewater. Together with traditional washing systems with vats equipped with “vertical cylinders” the market offers horizontal washing units, which reduce the liquor ratio and the energy and water consumption for each kilogram of washed material.

Washing includes a chemical-physical process, which removes the dirt from the substrate, and a series of physical operations aiming at improving the “feedback action”.

The sequence of the various washing steps is the following:
a. Formation of the detergent liquor (transfer of matter + energy by mixing);
b. Reaching of the process temperature and wetting (transfer of the liquor to the material);
c. Separation of impurities and emulsification (transfer of matter from one step to the other);
d. Removal of the liquor from the fibre (transfer of macroscopic matter);
e. Drying (interstage transfer of heat and matter).

Often these steps occur simultaneously. The use of surfactants (detergents) during the washing stage is extremely important to speed up the wetting of the textile material, to facilitate the removal of dirt from the substrate, thus keeping the emulsion inside the liquor and preventing the particles laying down again on the fibre.

Crucial factors are water (which must be quite soft to avoid precipitation of Ca and Mg salts which could give a rough and coarse hand to the textile) and chemical products to be used (emulsifying agents, softening agents and surfactants).

Types of Washing:
Washing can be performed on fabrics either in open-width or in rope form. Rope washing is more effective than open-width washing thanks to a stronger mechanic action, which favors the cleansing, and the relaxation of the fabric structure; for delicate fabrics an open-width washing must be preferred to avoid marks and creases. Open-width washing is also the best choice for processing huge lots.

Rope Washing
Substantially, batch piece washing machines are made up of a couple of squeezing cylinders, which make the fabric swell (the fabric is previously sewn on top and bottom and takes the shape of a continuous ring); these cylinders are assembled inside a vessel, whose lower part contains the detergent liquor. It is possible to wash a fabric inside this vessel, by feeding it into restricted area without laying it stretched out. 

Rope washing machine

The efficiency of this operation is enhanced by the mechanic action, which facilitates both detergency and tension relaxation. This operation is highly cost-efficient because open-width washing allows only one working position and therefore only limited loads can be processed (max. 180 kg) while a rope washing machine can include from one to eight ropes, with an overall weight exceeding 600 kg. Furthermore rope washing machines grant reduced operating times thanks to a more effective mechanic action.

Open-width Washing
An open-width washing machine is usually a system featuring a vertical path washing with driven cycle of multiple action baths, with a resulting 30/40% water and steam saving. This operating unit is manufactured in several versions (10-15-30 meters) and can be used for every kind of preparation and finishing treatment. Four different washing actions alternate inside this machine:

1) Washing on rising paths;

2) Washing on sloping-down paths, carried out by means of spray nozzles, which atomise on both face and back of fabrics, performing a strong penetration action;

3) “Vibraplus” effect washing, which removes from the fabric the threadlike elements (fibrils) that do not dissolve in water;

4) Extraction washing by means of vessel intermediate squeezing. The longitudinal tension of the fabric remains perfectly unchanged on the whole path; it can be adjusted between 5 and 20 kg by means of upper cylinders equipped with self-adjusting control system which generates a sliding motion crease-and-fold proof also on extremely delicate fabrics. Plush fibrils are removed from the vessel with no need for brushes or liquor dilutions. 

Open-width washing machine

Another type of machine divides the washing process into single steps, which are systematically repeated. In this way the whole process can be not only constantly monitored but also accurately calculated. 

Introduction of Calendering Finishing | Working Process of CalenderingFinishing

Calendering
Calendering is a mechanical finishing process used on cloth where fabric is folded in half and passed under rollers at high temperatures and pressures. Calendering is used on fabrics such as moire to produce its watered effect and also on cambric and some types of sateens.

Calendaring is a high speed ironing process that primarily imparts lustre and is usually the final treatment for the fabrics in the finishing sequence. The basic principle of calendaring is to expose the cloth to the combined effect of moisture, heat and pressure until the fabric acquires a very smooth and light reflecting surface and gets a good lustre. The calendaring effect on the fabric is usually temporary and disappears after first washing. Semi permanent lustre is sometimes achieved by padding fabric in a sparingly soluble polyvinyl acetate emulsion before calendaring, where the solution acts as a binding agent. More permanent finish can be obtained by treating fabric with a solution of crease recovery reagent, followed by drying, calendaring and curing the fabric at about 150 ºC. The calendars are basically an assembly of heavy rolls, alternatively of iron and paper or cotton that are normally mounted in vertical frames. The rolls are bearing one on the other under a high pressure that is applied by compound levers or hydraulic or pneumatic equipment. 

Calendering

Paper or cotton rolls are made by compressing sheets of paper and cotton under heavy pressure of hundreds of tons and then finely turned to produce a smooth surface. The iron rolls are also called chilled rolls because these are hardened by sudden chilling of the red-hot rolls. These are hollow so as to allow passage of steam or sometimes gas-fire to heat these to different temperatures. 

Nipco-Flex Calender
The pressure application concept of this calender is different from the conventional calendering system. The pressing roller consists of a rotating shell that is covered with a highly elastic plastic material named as RACOLAN. The roller has fixed axels on which hydrostatic support elements are mounted that press the racolan shell against either steel or a cotton/paper roller. The hydrostatic pressure is applied with oil and is adjustable according to width of the cloth. The NIPCO roller can be arranged in vertical position or in L shape with a hot steel roller at top and a cotton bowl in front of it.

The main advantages of NIPCO calender over a conventional calender are;
1. Attainment of very high pressure.
2. Adjustment of pressure line according to width of cloth.
3. No over load at the fabric selvedge.
4. Easy installation and removal of the rollers.

Felt Calender
Felt calenders are mainly used for imparting lustre and smoothness to silk, rayon and cotton knitwear materials. These work at low pressure and temperature than used for cotton. The cloth is pressed between an endless felt blanket and a hot steel cylinder at a speed of 20 to 40 meters/minutes. By adjusting speeds of the feed and take up rollers the tubular knitwear can be compacted to some extent on this calender.

Introduction of Textile Finishing Process | Mechanical Finishing inTextile | Chemical Finishing in Textile | Enzyme Finishing

Textile Finishing

Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fiber, fabric, or clothing. In order to impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the material to different type of physical and chemical treatments. For example wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease free or wrinkle free. In a similar way, mercerising, singeing, flame retardant, water repellent, water proof, antistatic finish, peach finish etc are some of the important finishes applied to textile fabric.

Broadly it can be classified into following classes,which are used individually or in combination with each other. (other terms are also used such as wet finishing, dry finishing, durable finishes and non durable finishes)

1.Mechanical Finishing:

Involving the application of physical principles such as friction, temperature, pressure, tension and many others.

Calendering
A process of passing cloth between rollers (or “calendars”), usually under carefully controlled heat and pressure, to produce a variety of surface textures or effects in fabric such as compact, smooth, supple, flat and glazed. The process involves passing fabric through a calendar in which a highly polished, usually heated, steel bowl rotates at a higher surface speed than the softer (e.g. cotton or paper packed) bowl against which it works, thus producing a glaze on the face of the fabric that is in contact with the steel bowl. The friction ratio is the ratio of the peripheral speed of the faster steel bowl to that of the slower bowl and is normally in the range 1.5 to 3.0. The normal woven fabric surface is not flat, particularly in ordinary quality plain weave fabrics, because of the round shape of the yarns, and interlacings of warp and weft at right angles to each other. In such fabrics it is more often seen that even when the fabric is quite regular, it is not flat. During calendering, the yarns in the fabric are squashed into a flattened elliptical shape; the intersections are made to close-up between the yarns. This causes the fabric surface to become flat and compact. The improved planeness of surface in turn improves the glaze of the fabric. The calender machines may have several rollers, some of which can be heated and varied in speed, so that in addition to pressure a polishing action can be exerted to increase lustre.

Compacting
Durable finish imparted on man-made fibres and knitted fabrics by employing heat and pressure to shrink them to produce a crêpey and bulky texture.

Embossing
This particular type of calendering process allows engraving a simple pattern on the fabric.To produce a pattern in relief by passing fabric through a calendar in which a heated metal bowl engraved with the pattern works against a relatively soft bowl, built up of compressed paper or cotton on a metal centre.

Sueding
This process is carried out by means of a roller coated with abrasive material. The fabric has a much softer hand and an improved insulating effect thanks to the fibre end pulled out of the fabric surface.

Raising or Napping
The raising of the fibre on the face of the goods by means of teasels or rollers covered with card clothing (steel wires) that are about one inch in height. Action by either method raises the protruding fibres and causes the finished fabric to provide greater warmth to the wearer, makes the cloth more compact, causes the fabric to become softer in hand or smoother in feel; increase durability and covers the minute areas between the interlacings of the warp and the filling. Napped fabrics include blankets, flannel, unfinished worsted, and several types of coatings and some dress goods. Other names for napping are Gigging, Genapping, Teaseled, Raised.

Wool Glazing
This is done on a special machine, which is used to perform functional finishing on wool fabrics after raising.

Shearing
Shearing is an important preparatory stage in the processing of cotton cloth. The objective of “Shearing” is to remove fibres and loose threads from the surface of the fabric, thus improving surface finish.

Stabilization
A term usually referring to fabrics in which the dimensions have been set by a suitable preshrinking operation

Decating
Also called Decatizing. A finishing process applied to fabrics to set the material, enhance lustre and improve the hand.Fabric wound onto a perforated roller is immersed in hot water or has steam blown through it.

Steaming and Heat setting
It is done by using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing polyester, nylon, or triacetate but not effective on cotton or rayon.it may be performed in fabric form or garment form it may cause shade variation from side-to-side if done prior to dyeing; may change the shade if done after dyeing

Sanforizing or Pre Shrinking
Sanforizing is a process where by the fabric is run through a sanforizer; a machine that has drums filled with hot steam. This process is done to control the shrinkage of the fabric.The fabric is given an optimum dimensional stability by applying mechanic forces and water vapour.

Fulling:
The structure, bulk and shrinkage of wool are modified by applying heat combined with friction and compression.

2.Chemical Finishing
The finishes applied by means of chemicals of different origins, a fabric can receive properties otherwise impossible to obtain with mechanical means.

Softening
Softening is carried out when the softness characteristics of a certain fabric must be improved,always carefully considering the composition and properties of the substrate.

Elastomeric Finishes
Elastomeric finishes are also referred to as stretch or elastic finishes and are particularly important for knitwear. These finishes are currently achieved only with silicone-based products. The main effect is durable elasticity, because not only must extensibility be enhanced, but recovery from deformation is of crucial importance. After all stresses and disturbing forces have been released, the fabric should return to its original shape.

Crease Resistant or Crease Proofing
Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton, linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily. Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning.

Soil Release Finishes

These finishes attract water to the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil.

Flame Retardant Treatment
Are applied to combustible fabrics used in children’s sleepwear, carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable textiles from bursting into flame.
Peach finish
Subjecting the fabric (either cotton or its synthetic blends) to emery wheels, makes the surface velvet like. This is a special finish mostly used in garments.

Anti Pilling
Pilling is a phenomenon exhibited by fabrics formed from spun yarns (yarns made from staple fibres). Pills are masses of tangled fibres that appear on fabric surfaces during wear or laundering. Fabrics with pills have an unsightly appearance and an unpleasant handle. Loose fibres are pulled from yarns and are formed into spherical balls by the frictional forces of abrasion. These balls of tangled fibres are held to the fabric surface by longer fibres called anchor fibres.

Anti pilling finish reduces the forming of pills on fabrics and knitted products made from yarns with a synthetic-fibre content, which are inclined to pilling by their considerable strength, flexibility and resistance to impact. Anti pilling finish is based on the use of chemical treatments which aim to suppress the ability of fibres to slacken and also to reduce the mechanical resistance of synthetic fibre.

Non Slip Finish
A finish applied to a yarn to make it resistant to slipping and sliding when in contact with another yarn.The main effect of non-slip finishes is to increase the adhesion between fibres and yarns regardless of fabric construction, the generic term for these finishes would be fibre and yarn bonding finishes. Other terms that can be used include anti-slip, non-shift and slip-proofing finishes.

Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes
Prevent soil and stains from being attracted to fabrics. Such finishes may be resistant to oil-boure or water-bourne soil and stains or both. Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics used in clothing and furniture. Scotchgard is a stain and soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and furniture.

Oil and Water Proofing
Waterproof Finishes -Allows no water to penetrate, but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body. Recently, fabrics have been developed that are waterproof, yet are also breathable

Water-Repellent Finishes
Water-repellent finishes resist wetting. If the fabric becomes very wet, water will eventually pass through. Applied to fabrics found in raincoats, all-weather coats, hats, capes, umbrellas and shower curtains.

Absorbent Finishes
Increase fibres’ moisture holding power. Such finishes have been applied to towels, cloth diapers, underwear, sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important.

Anti Static Finish
Reduce static electricity which may accumulate on fibres. The most common type of anti-static finishes are fabric softeners.

Anti Mildew
In certain ambient (humidity and heat) conditions, cellulose can be permanently damaged. This damage can be due to depolymerisation of the cellulose or to the fact that certain microoganisms (mildews) feed off it. The situation is worsened, during long storage periods, by the presence of starch finishing agents.This damage can be prevented by the use of antiseptics, bacteria controlling products containing quaternary ammonium salts, and phenol derivatives. Dyestuffs containing heavy metals can also act as antiseptics. Permanent modification of the fibre (cyanoethylation) is another possibility.

Mothproofing Finishes
Protect protein-containing fibres, such as wool, from being attacked by moths, carpet beetles and other insects.

Antibacterial Finish
The inherent properties of textile fibres provide room for the growth of micro-organisms. The structure and chemical process may induce the growth, but it is the humid and warm environment that aggravates the problem further. Antimicrobial finish is applied to textile materials with a view to protect the wearer and textile substrate itself.

Antimicrobial finish provides the various benefits of controlling the infestation by microbes, protect textiles from staining, discoloration, and quality deterioration and prevents the odor formation.Anti-microbial agents can be applied to the textile substrates by exhaust, pad-dry-cure, coating, spray and foam techniques. The application of the finish is now extended to textiles used for outdoor, healthcare sector, sports and leisure.
UV ProtectionFabric treated with UV absorbers ensures that the clothes deflect the harmful ultraviolet rays of the sun, reducing a person’s UVR exposure and protecting the skin from potential damage. The extent of skin protection required by different types of human skin depends on UV radiation intensity and distribution with reference togeographical location, time of day, and season. This protection is expressed as SPF (Sun Protection Factor), higher the SPF value better is the protection against UV radiation.

Colorfastness Improving Finish
Colour fastness is the resistance of a material to change in any of its colour characteristics, to the transfer of its colourants to adjacent materials or both. Fading means that the colour changes and lightens. Bleeding is the transfer of colour to a secondary, accompanying fibre material. This is often expressed as soiling or staining meaning that the accompanying material gets soiled or stained.

The physical and chemical principles involved in the performance of the fastnessnimproving finishes concern either the interaction with the dyestuff or with the fibre or both.

The finishes are applied to
a.Improve the colorfastness to washing
b.Improve the colorfastness to crocking
c.Improve the colorfastness to light
d.Improve the colorfastness to weathering
e.Improve the colorfastness to chemicals washes such as mild bleaching , dry cleaning and commercial washing.

Plasma finish
Plasma treatment is a surface modifying process, where a gas (air, oxygen, nitrogen, argon,carbon dioxide and so on), injected inside a reactor at a pressure of approximately 0.5 mbar, is ionised by the presence of two electrodes between which is a high-frequency electric field. The need to create the vacuum is justified by the necessity to obtain a so-called cold plasma with a temperature no higher than 80 °C. This, with the same energy content that can be reached at atmospheric pressure at a temperature of some thousands of degrees C, permits the treatment of fabrics even with a low melting point such as polypropylene and polyethylene, without causing any form of damage.The fabric, sliding through the electrodes, is subject to a true bombardment from the elements that constitute the plasma (ions, electrons, UV radiation and so on) and which come from the decomposition of gas and contain a very high level of kinetic energy. The surface of the fabric exposed to the action of the plasma is modified, both physically (roughness), as well as chemically, to remove organic particles still present and to prepare for the successive introduction of free radicals and new chemical groups inside the molecular chain on the surface of the material. The mechanical properties remain, on the other hand, unaltered, as the treatment is limited to the first molecular layers.

3.Enzyme Finishing
Bio polishing, also called bio-finishing, is a finishing process applied to cellulosic textiles that produces permanent effects by the use of enzymes. Bio-finishing removes protruding fibres and slubs from fabrics, significantly reduces pilling, softens fabric hand and provides a smooth fabric appearance, especially forknitwear and as a pretreatment for printing.

Sewing Thread Finishing
Apart from many of the above said finishes which can be applied to sewing threads also, A variety of finishes are used to improve the sewability of sewing thread,for example

1. Lubricants reduce friction and improve the lubricity of the thread.Lubricity refers to the frictional characteristics of thread as it passes through the sewing machine and into the seam. Good lubricity characteristics will minimize thread breakage and enhance sewability.
    
2. Glazing increases strength and abrasion resistance.Glaze Finish refers to a finish put on 100% cotton threads or cotton-polyester core spun thread made from starches, waxes or other additives. This coating is then brushed to give the thread a smooth surface. A glaze finish protects the thread during sewing giving better ply security and abrasion resistance.
    
3. Bonding to increase strength and surface smoothness. Bonded Finish refers to a finish applied to continuous filament nylon and polyester threads which coats the fibers, giving the thread better ply security and abrasion resistance. 

Dyeing Machineries/Printing Machineries/Finishing Machineries | List ofConvensional and Modern Dyeing/Printing/Finishing Machineries

Dyeing Machine:

In the pre-industrial revolution time, dyeing, printing, finishing process were done manually or very convensional process. So amount of production was so little. By the change of time, changing the machineries in dyeing, printing and finishing section. As a result production has become high as well as quality also increased.

Yarn dyeing machine

Convensional and Modern Dyeing/Printing/Finishing Machineries list are given below:

In case of Dyeing:

• Singeing machine:

1. Plate singeing machine
2. Roller singeing machine
3. Gas flame singeing machine

• Desizing machine/ Padding mangle
• Kier boiling machine
• J-box bleaching bleaching machine
• Fiber dyeing machine
• Yarn dyeing machine
• Package dyeing machine
• Fabric dyeing machine
• Jet dyeing machine
• Jigger dyeing machine
• Padding mangle dyeing machine
• Beam dyeing machine
• Winching dyeing machine
• Hank dyeing machine

In case of Printing:

• Roller printing machine
• Rotary screen printing machine
• Flat bed screen printing machine

In case of Finishing:

• Yarn mercerizing machine
• Fabric mercerizing machine:

1. Pad chain type machine
2. Chainless type machine
3. Pad-Chainless type machine

• Brush damping machine
• Spray damping machine
• Embossing calendering machine
• Teasel raising machine
• Card wire raising machine
• Sanforizing machine

Sanforizing/Anti-Shrinkage Finishing | Sanforizing Finishing Process

Sanforizing:

Sanforizing is a controlled compressive shrinkage process, which is applied on woven fabric to achieve shrinkage before making the garments. After sanforizing the residual shrinkage of woven fabric may be zero. In sanforizing process shrinkage is achieve by passing the cotton fabric onto a movable elastic felt blanket is released it assumes a shortened conditional. Thus the cotton fabric is forced to conform this compression.

Residual Shrinkage:
Residual Shrinkage is the latent shrinkage of a fiber ,Filament, yarn or fabric.

The shrinkage amount of fabric is dependent on:
1. The nature of fibers
2. The character of threads
3. The way of interlacing of thread in the fabric.
4. Crimp in yarn.
5. Cycle of washing no. of washing.

Sanforizing Process:
Sanforizing is a mechanical finishing process of treating textile fabrics to prevent the normal dimensional alternation of warp and weft. It is also called anti-shrinkage finishing process. It is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and most textiles made from natural or chemical fibres, patented by Sanford Lockwood Cluett (1874–1968) in 1930. It is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width, before cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after washing .

Simplified diagram of the sanforizing method of producing shrinkage

Sanforizing process is based on the principle that when a elastic felt blanket is passed around a metal roller in contact with it, its outer surface is process extended and the inner surface contracted. So the process is called controlled compressive shrinkage process.