Construction of Garments Patterns | Description of Apparel PatternsInstruction

Following instruction must be marked on apparel pattern, to enable the garment to be made up correctly: -
1. Style Number.
2. Name of the part
3. Size ( it will show you how to find your size on a pattern finished garment measurements)
4. Grain Line: All patterns must have grain lines. It indicates the length direction of fabrics, i.e. during marker making all patterns must be placed to the length direction.
5. Balance Mark: Used to ensure patterns are sewn together at the correct points.
6. Construction Lines: These include button holes, pocket placing etc.

Garment Patterns Construction:

1. Manual Method.
2. By Computer (CAD).

Principles of Pattern Making:
A garment sewing pattterns or garment fabric & patterns draft is developed by calculating, taking account of the following measurements: -

1. Direct Sample.
2. Specification Sheet/ Measurement Chart.
3. Actual body size measurements.
4. Easy Allowances.
5. Sewing Allowance.

Pattern Draft:
A pattern draft is a diagrammatic representation of the way a garment is constructed. The objective of pattern draft is to develop a sample garment.

Pattern Sets:
Different sizes of pattern for a particular style are called pattern sets, e.g. L.M.S.

Production Pattern:
The pattern se which are used for huge production is called production pattern.

Panties and Bikinis | Types of Panty | A Brief History of Panty

Panty

Panty is a short underpants for women. Panties are a form of underwear, usually light and snug-fitting, designed to be worn by women or girls in the area directly below the waist. Typical components include an elastic waistband, a crotch panel to cover the genital area (usually lined with absorbent material such as cotton), and a pair of leg openings which, like the waistband, are often made of elastic. Panties have either no legs or in some cases very short ones.

A Brief History of Panty
The history of panties starts with the story of bloomers. The original purpose was modesty – covering up as much of the female form as possible. As hens are to the eggs so to bloomers are to panties. Typically it is a divided garment to cover the lower part of women. The first ones were the brainchild of Elizabeth Miller but Amelia Bloomer made it popular during the 1850’s. These were long baggy pants ending at the ankles. It was largely influenced by the East and often came to be called the ‘Syrian’ style. In the late 18th century the bloomers got two other nametags – knickers and knickerbockers. Women wore it during sports events during those days of Victorian modesty. From the 1920’s bloomers began to get short. For a classic visual of bloomers the best bet is to watch the bloomer-dance in the Hollywood classic ‘Seven Brides for Seven Brothers’ where the delightful brides prance around bloomers, the ancestors of panties!

The post-war period saw an outburst or outrage of female modesty dominated by the bra-panty culture. Somehow freedom for women and women’s right became mixed up with exposure of the exquisite female form, leaving little to the imagination. Some interpreted it as a hidden fear and doubt about the natural appeal of the female towards the opposite sex, as Nature meant it to be. Hence the urgency to establish and advertise it aggressively! Another explanation is that the post-war period saw a boom in business and advertising. The least amount of material was turned into a costly piece of garment. The gullible public swallowed the bait and the undergarment made its dominating presence felt – often to the point of ridicule and invasion of human decency and privacy.

In the 1940s, new styles of women’s undergarments became available in the West that possessed a greater sense of sexuality focused on comfort and individuality, versus functionality and conformance to a certain body type; they were glamorized even more by models such as Bettie Page.

Today more than a piece of clothing that covers and comforts the panty has become an object of sexuality. But is the operation table, with the spread-eagled human form, the alpha of sensuality? Sex is something far more – deep and sensual – than mere exposure of the beast in the urban jungle.

From the 1920’s the hemline of skirts began to rise and importance came to be given from what peeped out from under it. The original panties were made from silk or artificial silk called rayon. After that nylon came to be use. Skin problems and other related headaches is causing a rethinking and going back to cotton. This is however turning out to be a costly affair.

The panty started its journey with the original purpose of covering the intimate part of a woman even she suddenly fell or jumped about. It spelt freedom from prowling eyes. The panty covers the mysterious deep junction between the legs. Eminent sociologist Margaret Mead says that the maleness and femaleness is inherent and woven into the fabric of our body as well as mind from childhood. It is genetically programmed. Mead points out that when a baby girl falls she spontaneously brings together her hands in front below the stomach. Whereas when a boy falls he spreads his arms across on both sides. Everything in woman is inside. Everything in man is outside.

Apart from the modesty factor the panty protects the woman from infections while she goes about her work in this modern world. The panty material should be able to breathe – otherwise it will itself be a source of trouble. Moreover the panty should be washed daily and should definitely not be shared on grounds of long-term health and hygiene.

The panty culture has developed a language of its own and one of the terms is panty-line or visible-panty-line (VPL). It is the provocative outline of the undergarment teasing through the outer clothing. The Panty-line also came to be known as the bikini-line. Of late there is very little difference between the bikini and the panty. Womankind is somehow holding onto a wisp of cloth to save her modesty and her civilization.

Pantyhose is another name in the panty business. These are sheers of extremely close fittings covering the body from the waist and reaching down to the feet. These resemble stockings and are made from nylon. It made its entry in USA during the 1960’s as an alternative to stockings. It is not necessary to wear any other undergarment below it. In UK these are termed ‘tights’ but with a variation in meaning. It need not be tight fighting but can be made from any stretchable material like spandex. Usually women wear it during physical exercises. In the tropical countries the entry of panties has been fairly recent. Overnight it has led to a market boom. But the panty does not go with the stifling humid sweaty climate of the tropics where the body needs to be aired as long as possible. It has led to a rise in hitherto unknown skin problems – this being a boon for pharmaceutical business.

A whole culture, for good or bad, has come to revolve round the panty. Much to the agony of health addict regular sales of second hand panties are becoming quite common. It is not unknown that even after vigorous washing; items of clothing do not become totally free from germs and vermin. There is a regular auction of panties and other items of undergarments worn by celebrities like Marylyn Monroe. It depends on one’s bent of mind whether to shudder or to cheer at such displays of civilized mankind.

In a recent online news it was reported that at Stansted Airport a 29 year old man hit the headlines as the panty-thief! He was the baggage handler at the airport and admitted to stealing panties. His colleagues saw him searching and removing these delightful items from passenger’s luggage. Three hundred pairs were carefully stored in his home. He was given an 18-month sentence with a fine. The sentence was relatively lenient as the motive was not greed but psychological. Society seems to be beginning to pay for allowing a free hand to greedy manufacturers and their partners – the media gangs.

Types of Panty
Panties are divided into various types based on such criteria as amount of rear coverage, width at the sides, and height at which they are worn. These categories are not necessarily distinct and usage may vary somewhat among brands.

Briefs rise to the waist or just below the navel and have full coverage in the rear. 

Classic (or full) brief - the sides extend below the hip 

High-cut (French cut) brief - the sides are somewhat narrower. 

Boyleg briefs (or boyshorts) - styled after men’s briefs and may have short legs extending below the crotch.
Control panties (or control briefs) - a special type of briefs designed to offer support and give a slimmer appearance; these usually contain a stretch material such as spandex and may extend above the waist.
Hipsters are similar to briefs, but are worn lower with the waistband around the hips. 

Bikinis are also worn at the hips, but the fabric at the sides is narrower. In the string bikini, it disappears altogether to leave the waistband as a “string”. The rear coverage of the bikini is not as full as with the brief. Bikini is the most widely worn style among women worldwide. Tangas have full rear coverage, but the waistband is reduced to a narrow strip at the sides. Thongs have a waistband similar to tangas, but the rear coverage is not as full. The crotch is extended to the back with a narrow strip of fabric fitting between the buttocks, which becomes wider toward the top. he G-string is a thong with virtually no rear coverage, the narrow strip in the back extending from the crotch all the way to the waistband. It shows most of the buttocks.

Process Flow Chart of Sewing Thread | Different Types of Packages areUsed in Sewing Threads

A thread is a large number of very thin fibers spun together, used in the manufacture of textiles and in sewing. Or In hardware a thread is used to connect two things together, such as a screw to a piece of wood or two segments of a hose.

The process flow chart for the manufacture of sewing threads is shown in the flow chart.

Functions of various machines in sewing thread manufacturing process:

Yarn singeing

Sewing thread must be singed to ensure that the projecting fibres do not interfere with downstream processing. Percentage of singeing can be achieved varied by varying the yarn collection speed. Hair removal efficiency at singeing machine is normally 30 - 50%. Flame temperature is around 800 oC. Singeing is mainly done in Cotton Sewing Threads.

Features

1. The heart of the machine - the burner, serves to singe reliably the projecting fibres of yarn running through at high speed, without inflicting burns on yarn itself. There is a choice between the gas burner and the electric burner. Gas burner are widely used. The gas burner consumes about 55 gm of natural, propane or butane gas an hour, depending on singeing rate and yarn type. 
2. Speed: 300-1200 m/min.

Hank to cone winding

• Conversion of hank in to cone of suitable weight

• Waxing for reducing co-officient of friction in sewing thread .

Features of new machines:

• Twin Input Rollers: At the front of the head are the twin-input rollers, set to a fixed speed but proportional to the winding speed. The main functions of this unit are to eliminate unwanted tensions prior to yarn entering waxing unit. 

• The speed of machine ranging from 400-700 mpm, with possible traverse from150-200 mm.

Polishing

Some threads for special end uses like leather industries, bag stitching, kite flying are treated with starch, softeners, whitener, etc on this machine. Cooked starch is mixed with other chemicals and different recipes are made for different qualities depending on the end uses. 

Main objectives of polishing are:

• Extra ordinary smooth surface 

• Thread becomes round.

• Stiffness increases.

• Increase in tensile strength (7-10%).

Cross winding and lubrication

• Winding in various types of sewing thread packages like cone, cop , tube, ball, vicone and spool.

• Threads are treated with special waxes for achieving best workability during sewing operation.

• Lick roller lubrication is applied on industrial sewing thread where thread has to run on high speed sewing machine; the basic ingredient of the most of the lubricants is parafin wax. Although silicones are also used because of their stability to heat and various additives are also included to give some special properties.

Geometry of packages

Threads are wound in many forms. Small length spools are employed in retail store distribution, whereas somewhat larger spools are used to a limited extent industrially. Some of the very fine soft threads are wound on cones, very coarse soft threads are in skein form, but the largest proportion by far is wound on the one headed tube with base or straight tubes. These packages in some instances are put on a weight basis; however, the larger percentage is marked on a length basis. Ready-wound bobbins in a number of styles to accommodate the various sewing machines employed are also available. Cross winding threads are generally laid in with traverse ratio 1: 6 (one double traverse = six spindle revolution) and 1: 4 for coarser counts.

The following types of packages are used in sewing threads (with commonly used dimensions).

Spool: Spools are small flanged plastic or wooden bobbins, they are both with tapered (so-called Diabolo spools) and straight flanges. Mainly parallel winding (because side unwinding is easy) is done. Cross-windings are also possible on the spools. They contain relatively short length of 100-500 meter thread. The length of traverse on spool is 2.9-3.8 cm.

End uses: Upholstery, footwear, leather goods manufacturing, and in hand sewing operations. 

Cop:

Cops are small cylindrical flangeless spools, with precision cross winding. They are mostly made of paper and plastic. They are of two types, small Cop (Tube) and medium Cop (Cop). The lack of flanges facilitates regular off winding on industrial sewing machines although their small diameter makes them less well suited to the faster thread take off machines. Smaller Cops are popular make-up in fashion trades, where a variety of shades are used and production runs for any one colour or style of garments. The length of thread wound ranges from 100-2000 m on small cop and 400-4000 m on cop. The length of traverse on small cop is 5 - 6.3 cm and on cop is10 cm.

End uses: Kite flying, Upholstery, ready-made garment, tailoring, hosiery, umbrella, and shoe stitching

Cone: 

This is self-supporting, cross wound conical package. It is easier to withdraw yarn over end from a cone than from a cheese and because of this, cone is more widely used. They contain relatively long lengths 1000-25000 m with length of traverse ranging from 10-15 cm. They give trouble free thread unwinding at intermittent or continuous high speeds. Cones are the most economical packages for conventional sewing threads in situations where thread consumption is high and production runs are long.

End uses: ready made garment, tailoring, hosiery, leather stitching, Upholstery, shoe stitching, denim, embroidery, and kite flying.

Vicone or King Spool: 

Vicones are parallel tubes or low angled cones with an additional base in the form of a raised flange, which may incorporate a small tip. The build of vicone depends on the exact conformity of the taper with the angle of vicone’s base. Coarse yarns require a large traverse for the taper — fine yarn a small one. They contain lengths of 1000-5000 m with length of traverse 6.5-9 cm.

End uses: embroidery, core-spun, and filament threads .

Prewound Bobbin:

Prewound bobbins are precision parallel wound thread package designed to replace metal bobbins on a variety of lock stitch machines.

Skein: 

A very small hank of soft twisted plied thread (around 8 m) of coarse count, is parallel wound with the help rotating flyer, which withdraws the thread from the supply package cone. 

End uses: embroidery.

Ball: 

A typical ball like structure, wound with the help of four types of different winding. They are: Rough base winding, form winding, surface layer winding, and circumference winding. The initial winding provides firmness at the base. Next winding process makes space for placing the identification ticket. The third stage of winding provides firm gripping of the ticket. The last stage of winding makes a band over the ball, which retains its shape. An easy unwinding of thread is possible.

End uses: embroidery, fishing net and bag closing.

Cocoon: 

Cocoons are self-supporting i.e. center-less thread package specially designed for the insertion in the shuttle of multi needle quilting and some types of embroidery. Cocoons are used in the shuttle of multi needle quilting and some types of embroidery machines.

International Care Labeling Code

Experiment name: Study on the international care labeling code.

Introduction:
Indicates the care instructions of the garments by some internationally recognized signs. It shoes washing,bleaching, drying, laundering,ironing,dry cleaning.

Care label code:
Care codes are the internationally recognized symbols which are used for caring of garments in case of cleaning and ironing. These labels on which these codes are drawn or printed are called care labels.

The care instructions are:
1) Conditions of laundering.
2) Drying instructions.
3) Ironing instructions.

Symbol Used for Care:

1)     Symbol of washing:

	Can be washed up to 950C
	Can be washed up to 600C
	Hand washing but not in washing machine.
	Can not be washed.

 

2)     Bleaching condition:

	Chlorine bleach is allowed.
	Chlorine bleach is not allowed.

 

3)     Symbol of ironing:

	Ironing in cold state (1100C)
	Ironing in cold state (1500C)
	Ironing in cold state (2000C)
	Can not be ironed.

4)     Dry cleaning condition:

	Dry cleaning is allowed in any types of solvent.
	Para-Chloro-Ethylene, white spirit, solvent-113 and solvent-11 can be used.
	White spirit of solvent-113 can be used.

5)     Drying condition:

 

	Tumble drying is allowed.
	Tumble drying is not allowed.
	Drying in hanging state is allowed.
	Drying should be done in a state parallel to the ground but can be hanged.

CARE LABEL CODE FROM THE GIVEN SAMPLE:

	MACHINE WASH COLD.
	DO NOT BLEACH.
	HANG TO DRY
	WARM IRON
	WASH SEPARATELY

Conclusion:
In this experiment we have studied the care label code of a shirt and form here we have come to know the various types of care label code and their actual uses. And we also knew that the care label codes become different among various types of fabric. I think this experiment will help us a lot in future.