Analysis of Fabric | Analysis of Sateen Woven Fabric Stracture

Experiment name: Analysis of woven fabric. (Sateen)

Object:
1. To know about the structure of fabric.
2. To know about the raw material of fabric.
3. To produce exactly the similar fabric.

Sample: 

Apparatus:
1. Counting glass,
2. Needle,
3. Beesleys balance,
4. Twist tester,
5. GSM cutter,
6. Graph paper.

Analysis Sateen Fabric: 

1. Weave plan: In graph the gaps between the lines are considered according to X axis as weft  threads and according to Y axis as warp threads. The up threads are indicated by filling up the gaps and down threads without filling up the gaps.

2. Drafting plan: According to British system drafting plan is drawn at the top of weave plan. Here broken draft is used to draft the plan.

3. Lifting plan: The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan.

4. Face side and backside: The face side and back side are not same.

5. Direction of warp and weft: Direction of both warp and weft are indicated by arrow marks by the side of the sample.

6. Raw material: Both warp and weft yarns are filament. 

7. Thread density:

No. of reading	EPI	Average	PPI	Average
1	44	45	42	41
2	45		39
3	46		40
4	43		43
5	47		41

8. Yarn count:

No. of reading	Warp count	Average	Weft count	Average
1	20	21	19	21
2	22		23
3	23		20
4	21		22
5	19		21

9. Yarn twist:

No. of reading	Warp twist	Average	Weft twist	Average
1	X	X	X	X
2	X		X
3	X		X
4	X		X
5	X		X

10. Direction of twist: As the yarns are filament so they have no twist.

11. Design of fabric: As it is a derivative of twill so it has no formula number.

12. GSM calculation: By GSM cutter we get the GSM of fabric is 130 gm/meter2.

13. Repeat size: The repeat size of this fabric is 24X24.

14. Type of loom: Dobby loom is used to produce this fabric.

End Use: This type of fabric is very much used for making towel, bed sheet, pillow, table cloth etc.

Conclusion: 

Analysis of fabric structure is very essential to know about the fabric. Because it gives all kinds of information about the fabric that is needed to reproduce or to change structure or design of fabric. By this practical I learn how to analyse primarily a simple plain structure of woven fabric. Further I will learn more complex fabric analysis. But this basic structure analysis will be very much helpful not only to analyse those but also in my future career.

Analysis of Woven Fabric Structure (Twill)

Experiment name: Analysis of woven fabric(Twill).

Object:
1. To sketch the structure of fabric.
2. To know about the raw material of fabric.
3. To know about different specifications of fabric.

Sample:
A piece of plain woven fabric.

Apparatus:
1. Counting glass,
2. Needle,
3. Beesleys balance,
4. Twist tester,
5. GSM cutter,
6. Graph paper.

Analysis:
1. Weave plan: In graph the gaps between the lines are considered according to X axis as weft threads and according to Y axis as warp threads. The up threads are indicated by filling up the gaps and down threads without filling up the gaps.

2. Drafting plan: According to British system drafting plan is drawn at the top of weave plan. Here straight draft is used to draft the plan.

3. Lifting plan: The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan.

4. Face side and backside: The face and backside can not be easily understood.

5. Direction of warp and weft: Direction of both warp and weft are indicated by arrow marks by the side of the sample.

6. Raw material: Both warp and weft yarns are cotton.

7. Thread density:

No. of reading	EPI	Average	PPI	Average
1	90	90	76	76
2	91		75
3	90		75
4	92		76
5	91		74

8. Yarn count:

No. of reading	Warp count	Average	Weft count	Average
1	55	55	41	42
2	54		42
3	53		40
4	55		43
5	54		41

9. Yarn twist: Both warp and weft yarns have no twist.

10. Design of fabric: Color and weave effect is used to design the fabric and Z twill is used as basic design. Two colors are used in both warp and weft way. In warp color ratios are 4:2, 4:4, 2:4 & 2:2 and in weft 2:2, 4:2 & 4:4.

11. GSM calculation: By GSM cutter we cut the fabric. Then weight by electric balance. We find the GSM of fabric is 124 gm/meter2.

12. Repeat size: The repeat size of this fabric is 4´ 4.

13. Type of loom:  Jacquard loom is used to produce this fabric.

14. End use: This type of fabric is used for making coat and suited cloth. It is used for wear cloth and house furnishing cloth etc.

Conclusion:
Analysis of fabric structure is very essential to know about the fabric. Because it gives all kinds of information about the fabric that is needed to reproduce or to change structure or design of fabric. By this practical I learn how to analyse primarily a simple plain structure of woven fabric. Further I will learn more complex fabric analysis. But this basic structure analysis will be very much helpful not only to analyse those but also in my future career.

Analysis of Regular Weft Rib Woven Fabric

Experiment name: Analysis of woven fabric(Regular Weft Rib).

Object:
1. To know the fabric specification.
2. To know the raw material of fabric.
3. To produce exactly the similar fabric.

Sample: A piece of plain woven fabric.

Apparatus:
1. Counting glass,
2. Needle,
3. Beesleys balance,
4. Twist tester,
5. GSM cutter,
6. Graph paper.

Analysis:
1. Weave plan: In graph paper the gaps between the lines are considered according to X axis as weft threads and according to Y axis as warp threads. Now indicating the up threads by filling gaps and down threads without filling gaps the weave plan is drawn. 

2. Drafting plan: According to British system drafting plan is drawn at the top of weave plan. Here two heald shafts are used to draw the drafting plan. 

3. Lifting plan: The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan. 

4. Face side and Back side: As the cloth is constructed with plain fabric construction, face and back side is not same. Face side appearance is smooth and glassy than back side appearance. 

5. Direction of warp and weft: Direction of both warp and weft are indicated by arrow marks as shown in the sample. Selvedge direction is always warp direction and warp direction is more straight and parallel than weft direction. No. of yarn in warp is more than weft. 

6. Raw material: Both weft warp yarns are cotton. 

7. Thread density: No. of ends per inch or EPI =104, No. of picks per inch or PPI = 22. 

8. Yarn count :

• Warp yarn count
• Weft yarn count

Count of warp yarn is 28 and weft yarn is 30.

9. Yarn twist:

• Warp yarn 
• Weft yarn

Twist of warp yarn is 23and weft yarn is 23.

10. Twist direction: Both warp and weft yarns are twisted in ‘Z’ direction.

11. Design of fabric: The fabric is designed as one up and one down i.e. if all even numbered warp ends are raised at one pick then all odd numbered ones are raised at other picks.

12. GSM calculation: We take one square inch fabric sample and find its weight 0.07 gm.
We know 1 inch = 2.54 cm i.e. 0.0254 m. So, 1 sq. inch = (0.0254X0.0254) sq. m.
Now, (0.0254X0.0254) sq. m sample wt. = 0.07 gm
1 sq. m sample wt. = 108.5 gm
Therefore GSM of fabric is 108.5gms/sq. inch

13. Repeat size: 8x2. The repeat contains 2 ends and 2 picks.

14. Type of loom  : Tappet loom is used to produce this plain woven fabric.

15. End use: Different types of apparel such as shirt, lungi, shari; bed sheet, bedcover, pillow cover, and many other uses.

Conclusion: 

Analysis of fabric structure is very important to know about the fabric which is needed to reproduce or to change structure or design of fabric. By this practical I gathered the knowledge how to analyses primarily a simple plain structure of woven fabric which will be very helpful in future.

5-Wheel Take Up Mechanism | Five Wheel Take Up Mechanism (Jute) | Usesof 5-Wheel Take-Up Mechanism in Jute Weaving

Experiment name: Study on 5-wheel take up mechanism(jute).

Introduction:
Take-up is to draw a fabric to the cloth roller regularly as it is woven. Texture of a fabric largely depends upon the number of ends and picks per centimeter or inch. This motion determines the number of picks of weft per inch or centimeter and contributes to the uniform texture of the fabric. It is the work of the weaver for accurately fixing the position of the fell of the cloth before starting a loom. It is related to 7-Wheel Take up mechanism. 5-Wheel take up mechanism is used in case of jute weaving and 7-Wheel take up mechanism is used in another weaving as like as cotton.

Objects:
1.To know about the construction of the mechanism.
2.To know about drive of the take-up motion.

Take up motion:
The process of withdrawing fabric from weaving zone at a constant rate and then winding the woven cloth on the cloth roller with the continuous progress of weaving is called take up motion.

Types:
(1)According to drive:
(a) Positive take up.
(b)Negative take up. 

(2)According to motion of the cloth/Rate of take up:
(a)Continuous
(b)Intermittent

(3)According to drive given to the cloth roller:
(a)Direct drive
(b)Indirect drive

(4)According to number of gear train:
(a)5-Wheel
(b)6-Wheel
(c)7-Wheel

(5)According to brand name:
(a)Sulzer
(b)Pickanol
(c)Toyota

Specification:
1.Rachet Wheel(54)
2.Change Wheel(44)
3.Stud/Compound(70)
4.Stud/Compound pinion(27)
5.Take up Wheel(8/2)
6.Take up Roller Dia(10.5inch)
7.Cloth Roller
8.Pushing Paul
9.Holding Paul

Mechanism:
It consists of a train of five wheels. Of these five wheels rachet, stud and cloth roller wheels are driven wheels while change and stud pinions are driver wheels. The motion is primarily imparted from the sleysword. The sleysword is connected to the sley that gets motion from crank shaft and the crank shaft gets motion from motor by gearing. At the bottom of sleysword a connecting rod is connected which passes the motion to the monkey tail. The monkey tail is fulcrumed with two pawls: the upper is holding pawl and lower is pushing pawl. These two pawls are mounted freely to the rachet wheel which is the 1st wheel of this mechanism. The rachetwheel is connected with the change pinion by shaft which is the 2nd wheel. Under the change pinion the 3rd wheel named stud wheel is geared. This wheel is geared with the stud pinion, the 4th wheel. The 5th wheel is take-up roller wheel which is geared upon the stud pinion. The cylinder upon which the woven fabric is wound, is connected with this wheel by shaft. Now when the sley moves one time after one pick insertion the connecting rod pass this motion to the monkey tail and as the pawls are fulcrum with monkey tail they get upward motion. Using this upward motion the pushing pawl pushes the rachet wheel one time and and the holding pawl holds the rachet in this position. Finally the cloth roller gets the motion by gear train and thus fabric is wound on cloth roller continuously with the weaving of fabric.

The take-up may be grown or lessen by changing the position of monkey tail and pawls where they are sloted. The more the distance is between them the more take-up is occurred and vice versa.

Remarks:
By this experiment we know about how to cloth is collected by take up mechanism. This is an interesting experiment too. We hope this will be very helpful in our practical life.

Analysis of Diapers Woven Fabric

EXPERIMENT NAME : Analysis of Diapers woven fabric.

OBJECT :
1. For reproduction.
2. To keep clear conception about fabric structure.
3. To make comments on fabric properties.
4. For fabric specification.
5. To help in criminal case by studying fabric structure.
6. To know the raw material of fabrics.
7. To help in custom inspection.

SAMPLE : 

A piece of diaper fabric.

APPARATUS :
1. Counting glass.
2. Needle.
3. Blade.
4. Scissors.
5. Twist tester.
6. Beesley’s balance.
7. Template.
8. Balance & Wt. Box.
Face & Back Side:
As the cloth is constructed with twill fabric construction, face & back side is not same. Face side is smooth and glassy appearance then back side appearance.

Warp & Weft direction: 

Direction of both warp & weft are indicated by arrow mark has been shown in the sample, selvedge direction is always warp direction & warp direction is more straight and parallel. But weft direction is less straight and parallel. No. of yarn in warp direction is more then weft direction.

Thread Density: 

No. of observation	EPI	Avg. EPI	PPI	Avg. PPI
1	45	45	41	41
2	46		40
3	45		41
4	46		41
5	44		40

Thread count:

No. of observation	Warp count	Avg. Warp count	Weft count	Avg. Weft count
1	21	21	21	21
2	21		21
3	20		20
4	21		22
5	19		21

Twist per inch:

No twist in warp direction or weft direction.
Yarn designation:
For warp : 21 Ne
For weft : 21 Ne

Fabric representation: =    ^{Warp count × Weft count}× Fabric width

                                                             EPI × PPI

                                               =  21 × 21 _{×  fabric width}

                                                     ^{45 × 41}

Design of the fabric :
As the given, sample is diaper design fabric. Its design will be 24 X 24 diamond.
 

GSM (gram per Sq. meter) :
Weight of fabric taken from GSM Cutter = 1.3 gm
1 m2 sample’s weight = 130 gm
GSM = 130

Fabric Raw Material : 

Warp : Cotton
Weft : Cotton

Formula number : diaper 24 X 24

Type of loom : jacquard loom..

END USE:
i) In decorated fabric.
ii) In Shirt fabric.
iii) In Table cloth.
iv) In Screens.
v) On ornamented design.
vi) In design fabric.

PRECAUTION:
i) Ends per inch & picks per inch should be determined carefully.
ii) Beasley’s balance for count & balance for G.S.M should be adjusted before determination.
iii) Warp &weft direction, face &back side, drafting plan, weave plan & lifting plan should be done carefully.

CONCLUSION:
Special thanks to our teacher & her assistance for taught us carefully. This experiment is one of the important experiment for a textile technologist .By this experiment we can learn about the different parameters of the diaper fabric. But with those condition we take all the measure as much as accurate.