Supercritical Fluid (SCF) | Supercritical Fluid Dyeing | Advantages ofSupercritical Fluid Dyeing

Supercritical Fluid (SCF)

Supercritical fluid is one kind of fluid which is highly compressed gases which combine properties of gases and liquids in an intriguing manner.It is a substance which can be either liquid or gas, used in a state above the critical temperature and critical pressure where gases and liquids can coexist. It shows unique properties that are different from those of either gases or liquids under standard conditions.A supercritical fluid has both the gaseous property of being able to penetrate anything, and the liquid property of being able to dissolve materials into their components.

Supercritical Fluid Dyeing
In textile industry water is the usual medium for dyeing and cleaning. This is the reason why textile industry is one of the biggest consumer of water in all industries. Textile refining processes without using water have to be applied because costs of water and waste water are increasing more and more, the legislator fixes more rigorous limit values for the sewage load and also the water resources become more and more limited in several areas.

Supercritical Fluid graph

In cooperation with the DTNW (German textile research centre Northwest) Uhde has developed a textiles-refining process which is uncoupled completely from the water cycle. Therefore the new, ecologically sensible ways which are enough, moreover, also for the highest quality requirements are opened to the dyeing by textiles.

Advantages of Supercritical Fluid Dyeing
This relatively new and innovative process offers unbeatable advantages compared to conventional dyeing.

1. Qualitatively equivalent, partially better dyeing result
2. No damage of the fibre
3. Significantly shortened process and dyeing times
4. Low dye and chemicals consumption
5. No water consumption
6. No reductive post laundry necessary
7. CO2 is easily recyclable
8. No drying process and therefore no drying devices necessary
9. CO2 is innocuous and ecologically friendly
10. Energy savings - by the short process times, the lower heat capacity of the CO2 compared with water and no need for drying of the material after the dyeing.

The Dyeing Process
The textiles to be dyed are wrapped on a dyeing beam to achieve an equal dyeing result. The dyeing beam is placed in the dyeing autoclave C and the dyestuff is filled into the receiver D2. The pressure vessels are closed and is CO2led in several steps through the plant.

1. Pretreatment
In the first step the textiles are cleaned from pollutions and sticking auxiliary materials from the production because the rests of wax, oils and other hydrophobic substances can disturb the dyeing process. With the pressurization pump P1 liquid CO2 from the buffer tank D1 is compressed to supercritical pressure and heated up in the heat exchanger E1 to supercritical temperature. The supercritical CO2 flows through the textiles in the dyeing autoclave C and, besides, solves carefully all sticking pollutions from the fibres. The loaded CO2 flows via a expansion valve and becomes by the pressure decrease gaseous. Thereby the solution power is reduced and the extracted pollutions precipitate and are collected in the separator S. Afterwards the cleaned CO2 is liquefied in the condenser E3 and is led via the buffer vessel D1 back into the circulation.

2. Dyeing
After the pre-treatment the actual dyeing process begins by switching of the dyestuff receiver D2 into the CO2circulation. The supercritical CO2 solves the dyestuff in the dyestuff receiver and flows through the dyeing autoclave C. The CO2 loaded with dyestuff is delivered through the textiles and the dyestuff is adsorbed in the fibres. After the dyeing autoclave the CO2 flows through a filter to the circulating pump P2 and afterwards is fortified in the dyestuff receiver with fresh dyestuff and is led as long as in the circulation, until the desired dyeing intensity of the textiles is achieved.

3. After Treatment
After finishing the dyeing step the CO2 circuit and dyed Material are cleaned from excess dyestuff. Therefore the dyestuff receiver is taken out of the CO2 circuit and the loaded CO2 is expanded via the expansion valve into the separator. The excess dyestuff precipitates fall out and is collected in the separator. The CO2 is circulated as long as the plant and the textiles is cleaned from the excess dyestuff leftovers.

After finishing the complete dyeing process the CO2 circulation is stopped and the dyeing autoclave is depressurized to atmospheric conditions. The dyed textiles are taken out of the autoclave.

Feed of the Arm Sewing Machine | Study on Feed of the Arm SewingMachine and Production of Sample

Name of the Experiment: Study on Feed of the Arm sewing machine and production of Sample.

Introduction:
There are many types of sewing machines. Some are used for special purposes such as Feed of the Arm machine, Industrial Overlock machine etc. This type of machine works with continuous sewing and so they are called automatic machine. Here we study on such a type of machine that is Feed of the Arm sewing machine.

Objectives:
1. To know about the machine parts.
2. To sketch the thread path.
3. To produce a sample.

Specification:

• Brand  : JUKI
• Model  : MFD 47605U
• Type  : Flat bed.
• Group  : Chain stitch
• Needle no  : 2 
• Needle name  : EYX128 
• Needle size  : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21 
• SPM  : 3000-3200 
• TPI  : 15-20 

Main Adjustment Points:
1. Thread.
2. Tensioner.
3. Needle.
4. Pressure feed.
5. Stitch density.
6. Looper.

Different parts:
1. Thread stands 

2. Thread guides
3. Disc type tensioner 

4. Pressure feed lever
5. Thread take-up lever 

6. Needle
7. Looper

Description:
This machine may be of flat bed type. In our lab 31 no. machine is Feed of the Arm machine. In this machine 2 needle, 2 loopers may also be used & sewing may be done using from 4 threads. Sewing with Feed of the Arm machine, 1 inch cloth up to16 inches thread is needed. The SPM of this type of machine is usually 3000 and 8-16 stitches may be done per inch. It is a very expensive machine and is used for mainly sewing Jeans, Grabidding goods & Double stitching pants.

Conclusion:
This type of machine can not be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment their importance can not be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this will be very helpful in my future life.

Flat Lock Sewing Machine

Experiment name: Study on flat lock sewing machine and production of sample.

Introduction: 

There are many types of sewing machines. Some are used for special purposes such as bar tack machine, button hole machine etc. This type of machine works in a cycle and so they are called simple automatic machine. Here we study on such a type of machine that is flat lock sewing machine.

Objectives:
1.To know about the machine parts.
2.To sketch the thread path.

Specification:

• Brand  : JUKI
• Model  : MFD 47605U
• Type  : Flat or Cylinder bed
• Group  : Chain stitch
• Needle no  : 3 
• Needle name: UY-128 
• Needle size: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21 
• SPM  : 2500-6000 
• TPI  : 25-35 

Adjustment  : Thread, tension, needle, pressure feed, stitch density, looper etc.

Function  : Sewing all types of knitted cloth.

Different parts:

1. Thread stand
2. Thread guides
3. Disc type tensioner
4. Pressure feed lever
5. Thread take-up lever
6. Needle
7. Looper

Description: 

This machine may be of flat bed or cylinder bed type. In our lab 21, 22 nos. machines are flat bed and 32 no. machine is cylinder bed type. Flat bed is used for sewing body cloth and cylinder bed is used for sleeve cloth. In this machine 4 needles may also be used and sewing may be done using from 4 to 9 threads. Sewing with flat lock machine the most quantity thread is needed. For example for sewing 1 inch cloth up to 32 inches thread is needed. The SPM of this type of machine is usually 6000 and 8-16 stitches may be done per inch. It is a very expensive machine and is used for mainly sewing knitted goods but also used for making woven cloth.

Conclusion: 

This type of machine can not be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment their importance can not be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this will be very helpful in my future life.

Industrial Button Hole Machine | Specification of Button Hole Machine

Name of the Experiment: Study of Industrial Button Hole machine.

Introduction:
There are many types of sewing machine. Some are used for special purposes such as Button Attaching machine, Bar tack machine etc. This type of machines works in a cycle and so these are called simple automatic machine. Here we study on a type of machine that is Button hole machine.

Objectives:
1. To know about the machine parts.
2. To know about the thread path.
3. To draw the thread path diagram of button holing machine.
4. To know different parts of button holing machine.
5. To know the working principle of button holing machine.
6. To know the types of needle, its no, size, SPM, group, TPI of the machine.
7. To know about the button holing machine.

Specification:
Brand  : JUKI
Model  : LBH/781
Group  : Lock stitch
Needle use  : DPX5
Needle size  : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21
SPM  : 3000-3600
TPH  : 6-7 inch
Pressure  : 123

Different parts:
1. Bobbin winding 
2. Bobbin winding spring tensioner 
3. Back stitch lever
4. Driver wheel
5. Driven wheel
6. Spring tensioner post box 
7. Thread guide 
8. Knife lever  9.Thread take-up lever

10.Needle

11.Knife

12.Wiper

13.Pressure feed guide 

14.Throat plate

15.Bobbin

16.Bobbin case

Main Adjustment Points:
1. Thread. 

2. Tensioner. 

3. Needle.
4. Pressure feed. 

5. Stitch density. 

6. Looper.

Description:
This machine works in cyclic system i.e. during pressing switch after sewing one complete button hole the machine will stop. In fully automatic button hole m/c more than one i.e. pre-selected no. of button holes can be sewn in pre-selected distance. In this system no mark is needed on cloth for button hole. In button hole m/c there is system to make big or small button hole and also to increase or decrease the stitch density. Usually lock stitch or chain stitch is used here. Button hole can be made before or after sewing. Both system has some advantage and disadvantage. If hole is made before then the cut edge is closed in sewing and the button hole is seen very good and clean. But the disadvantage is that after starting sewing there is no chance to change the button hole place & cut edge disturbs to sew well due to flagging. But disadvantage is thread of cloth is come out along the sewing line of button hole that looks very bad. Usually for dense woven & coarse cloth before sewing, for thin cloth after sewing button hole is made.

Fig: Industrial Button Hole machine.

Where,
A=Cone package
B=Guide
C=Guide
D=Spring box tensioner
E=Guide
F=Guide
G=Tensioner
H=Thread cutting ever
I=Take up lever
J=Trimming lever
K=Guide
L=Guide
M=Throat plate
N=Cutting knife
 
Use:
To make button hole in different apparels.

Conclusion:
This type of machine can not be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment their importance can not be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this will be very helpful in my future life.

Button Attaching Machine | Study of Button Attaching Machine andProduction of Sample

Experiment name: Study of Button attaching machine and production of sample.

Introduction: 

There are many types of sewing machine. Some are used for special purposes such as bar tack machine, button hole making machine etc. This type of machines works in a cycle and so these are called simple automatic machine. Here we study on such a type of machine that is button attaching machine.

Objectives:
1.To know about the machine parts.
2.To know about the thread path.

Specification:
Brand: JUKI
Model: MB-377
Group: Chain stitch
Needle no: 1
Needle use: TQX1
Needle size: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21
SPM: 1200-1500
TPI: Per pressure 64
Adjustment: Thread, tension, needle & button

Different parts:
1.Thread stand
2.Thread guide 
3.Disc type tensioner 
4.Thread guides  5.Thread take-up lever

6.Thread guide

7.Needle

8.Clamp

Description:
There are different types of button attaching m/c and different types of clamps are needed for different types and sizes of buttons. Especially there may two or three holes in the button. Again button of three holes may be attached by parallel or cross sewing. Buttons may be of different types specially there may be shank below the button or during sewing shank may be made by thread. For sewing button lock stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch machine may be used. When using chain stitch the sewing looks neat below the button but the safety of stitch is low that is the button may be fall out opening the sewing. This will not happen when used lock stitch but it is not as neat as chain stitch. In automatic machine by a hopper and pipe button is fed in button clamp in auto system and button is positioned. Moreover a predetermined number buttons can be attached in a cycle in a predetermined distant in a dress.

Conclusion:
This type of machine can not be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment their importance can not be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this will be very helpful in my future life.

Blind Stitch Sewing Machine | Study on Blind Stitch Sewing Machine andProduction Sample

Name of the Experiment: Study on Blind Stitch sewing machine and production sample.

Introduction:
For the clothing industry there is a great diversity of regular and special machines for sewing every conceivable type of garment and it is this variety which enables clothing manufacturing to employ specialized equipment for their own particular requirement. These sewing machines are used for sewing fabrics and garments, leather goods, sacks, tents; bags etc. There are many types of sewing machines. Some are used for special purposes such as Chain Stitch machine, Flat Lock machine, Feed of the Arm machine etc, this type of machines works with continuous sewing and so these are called automatic machine. Here we study on a type of machine that is Blind Stitch sewing machine.

Objectives:

1. To know about the machine parts.
2. To sketch the thread path.
3. To know about sewing mechanism of blind stitch sewing machine.
4. To know the working principle of blind stitch machine.
5. To know the types of needle, its no, size, SPM, group, TPI of the machine.

Machine Specification:

• Name  : Industrial blind stitch machine.
• Brand  : Brother
• Model  : CM3-B938 
• Group  : Chain stitch
• Needle no  : 1 
• Needle name  : LW´6T
• Needle size  : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21 
• SPM  : 2500-3000 
• TPI  : 3-4 inch Sample

Function: Attaching hemming & facing.

Different parts:
1. Thread stand

2. Pressure feed lever 

3. Skip stitch device

4. Thread guides

5. Thread take-up lever 

6. Stitch length adjustment 7. Disc type tensioner
8. Needle Looper

Adjustment point:
1. Thread 

2. Tension 

3. Needle
4. Pressure feed 

5. Stitch density 

6. Looper.

Description:
The stitch produced by this machine in the fabric is not shown from face side and so this is called blind stitch machine. Usually curved needle is used in this machine as it can penetrate in the fabric partially. The needle comes out from the side of the fabric through which it penetrated. Again in maximum blind stitch machine optional skip device is attested by which it is possible to penetrate the outside layer after one or two stitch. The speed of this type of machine is up to 2500 SPM and the stitch length can be 3 to 8 mm long. Usually one thread is used to make the stitch but two threads may also be used. In case of two threads blind stitch, it is safe from opening. Mainly for attaching hemming or facing this machine is used.

Fig: Blind Stitch sewing machine 

Conclusion:
Blind stitch machine is one of the important sewing machines in garment factory of making a complete garment. This type of machine cannot be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment their importance cannot be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. By this practical we learn about the different parts, thread path and blind stitch sewing system in a practical manner. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. 

Thread Path | Industrial Over Lock Machine | Study of Thread Path, MainAdjustment Points of Different Industrial Over Lock Machine andProduction of Sample

Experiment name: Study of thread path, main adjustment points of different industrial over lock machine and production of sample.

Introduction: 

There are many types of sewing machine. Some are used for special purposes such as bar tack machine, button hole making machine etc. This type of machines works in a cycle and so these are called simple automatic machine. Here we study on such a type of machine that is button attaching machine.

Objectives:
1.To know about the machine parts.
2.To know about the thread path.

Specification:
Name  : Industrial overlock m/c.
Types  : 3, 4 & 5 threads
Brand  : JUKI
Model  : MO-3614 (4 thread)
SPM  : 6500-8500
TPI  : 15-16 (3), 17-18 (4) & 21-22 (5)
Needle no  : 1 needle, 2 loopers (3); 2 needles, 2 loopers (4) & 2 needles, 3 loopers (5)
Needle name  : DCX1
Needle size  : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21

Main parts:
1.Thread stand 

2.Thread package
3.Thread guide 

4.Disc type tensioner
5.Thread guides 

6.Needles
7.Loopers 

8.Thread cutter

Description:
Mainly over edge machines are overlock machines. In this type of sewing machines there are one or two needles and edge-trimming knife is at the front of needle. To make over lock stitch 2-5 threads are used. Usually SPM of over lock machine is 6500. But SPM of 8500 machines are also found. In this machine there also stretching (stretching max

1: 0.6) and gathering (gathering max 1: 4) systems during feeding cloth. Stitch is done up to maximum 4 mm length and stitch length may also be changed by push button. This type of machines can be used for sewing for both woven and knitted cloths.

Conclusion:
This type of machine can not be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment their importance can not be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this will be very helpful in my future life.

Industrial Production of Garments | Practical Study of Working Aids inManufacturing of Garments

Experiment name: Practical Study of Working Aids.

Introduction:
In the domestic production of garments 80% of the time is wasted for the handling of fabric. Other 20% used for sewing. To reduce this wastage in industrial production of garments work aids required. These work aids are not only used to reduce the handling time but also used to improve the quality of the garments and labour of the operator.

Objectives: 

1.  To get familiar with the work aids 
2.  To know the different functions of the work aids  
3.  To know the use of work aids in different sewing and garments making sequences

Work Aids:

• Specialized pressure foot  
• Compensating foot  
• Forceps  
• Cutting knife  
• Pliers  
• Hammers  
• Scissors  
• Star screw driver.

Specialized pressure foot:
These types of pressure feet used for the insertion of piping and elastic through the garments. These are also helpful in stitching narrow border of the piping.

Compensating foot:
These types of pressure feet have two section and these are spring connected. These are use for sewing plies of different thickness. These can also used for sewing very narrow border. Compensating pressure foot is used in patch pocket, collar closing seam etc.

Forceps:
This working aid is used to hold very fine material such as thread. This also used to unravel the faulty stitches, to connect the fine machine parts etc.

Cutting knife:
Cutting knife is use to cut the thread after sewing if there automatic stitch breaking element is not present in the sewing machine.

Pliers:
This work element is used to machine maintenance and settings.

Hammer:
This work element is also used to machine maintenance and settings.

Scissors:
Scissors are greatly used in the garments industries. This element is mainly used for cutting thread, small garment parts, pattern board, fusing etc.

Star screw driver:
This work element is used to machine maintenance and settings.

Conclusion:
In this experiment we discuss the different use of different work aids. Their figures have also drawn. This study about these work aids will make us able to maintain quality and reduce the wastage of time due to handling of garments.

Embroidery Thread | Study on Sewing Thread and Embroidery Thread

Experiment name: Study on sewing thread and embroidery thread.

Introduction:
The physical appearance and quality of seam is directly related to sewing thread. Specially for making garment the quality depends on the selection of the type of thread have been used. Again embroidery is used for beauty of dress or any type of sign or monogram. So the thread used here should also have some good parameters. There are different parameters for both of these threads, which select for which purpose we choose which type of thread.

Objectives:
i) To know about the parameters of sewing thread and embroidery thread.
ii) To test the parameters of sewing thread and embroidery thread.

Parameters:
The different parameters of thread are now discussed below:

1. Brand: 

There are different threads are available in the market made by different companies. Each company has a specific brand name for their specific product. The threads are also of different brands. Threads of good brands are of good quality and bad brands are of low quality.

So during using we should choose threads looking these brand names.

2. Colour: 

Colour is an important factor for making dress. Because this is to choose matching with dress colour. If we use black colour thread for sewing of white cloth then it would look very odd. Besides the colour should also have good fastness properties for different end use.

3. Fibre type:

The quality of sewing thread also depends on the type of fibre used to make the yarn. The thread may be made from natural, synthetic or both of them. In natural fibre there are cotton, linen, silk, viscose etc. In synthetic fibre there are polyester, nylon, aramide, PTFE etc. Usually synthetic threads are stronger than natural thread and mostly used.

4. Count: 

The relation between length and weight of thread expressed in number is called count. There are two systems: direct and indirect. Now the indirect system is used in most of the countries. One of the indirect system is metric count shortly Nm. The no. of length of 1000 m or 1m found per 1000gm or 1gm weight of thread is called metric count. This metric count is called metric number for sewing thread. It is found by multiplying the original count with 3. For cotton thread cotton count is used. The no. of hank or length of 840yards found per 453.6 gm or 1lb weight of thread is called cotton count. This count is also called cotton ticket number found in the same way. Some times tex is used to express sewing thread count. It is the no. of weight of 1gm found per 1000m or 1km length of thread.

5. TPM & twist direction: 

TPM is the no. of turns per 1m length of thread. These turns are given among 2 or more ply of single yarns for making sewing thread. The turns are given in two directions. If the turns are applied in clockwise it is called ‘S’ twist and if in anticlockwise is called ‘Z’ twist.

6. Ply: 

Sewing threads are made by twisting between 2 or more plies of single yarn. The more will be the no. of plies the stronger will be the thread. Usually the finishing twist given to these plies of single yarns are opposite to these single yarns twist.

7. Length: 

The thread wound to the package has a specific length. It depends on the shape and size of package. It also may depend on the type of thread and use.

8. Tensile strength: 

The amount of load or strength required to break a thread is called tensile strength. It is expressed in gm, kg or lb. It slightly varies with temperature, humidity, applied force and length of thread.

9. Tenacity: 

It is found by dividing the tensile strength with the thread count. Tensile strength depends on count that is if the thickness is more the tensile strength will be more and vice versa. But tenacity doesn’t depend on count. Tenacity normally expressed in gm/den or gm/tex.

10. Elongation at break: 

If force is applied on thread then when it is broken at that time the length it extends from the original length is called elongation at break. It is usually expressed in percentage.

11. Loop strength: 

A loop making through another thread loop and taking equal thread length determination of breaking strength of a loop is called loop strength. The loops should be of same thread. Loop strength is strongly related to stitch as well as seam strength.

12. Lubrication: 

Different types of finishing are used on thread for easy and decent sewing. Besides it is also applied depending on end use. Lubrication is one of them. It minimizes the friction of needle and cloth with thread and especially in case of synthetic thread the possibility of being damaged by heat of needle. Lubrication should be used at specific quantity and balanced way.

13. Shrinkage: 

When swelling the thread if made of cellulose fibre may shrink in length. That is it reduces its length for excessive volume due to swelling. Again when it is dried it recovers its original length. Now this increasing and decreasing of length cause serious problems in seam. After wetting of cloth if the thread shrinks in length there occur crease in cloth and so on. So this shrinkage should be minimized before finishing of thread and before use we should take care of it.

14. Wash fastness: 

Wash fastness is actually applied to colour resistance against water wash. Suppose a deep colour thread is used to sew a light colour fabric. Now if the thread colour has low wash fastness then when washing the colour will bleed and mix with cloth. So this is a big problem and for that thread should have sufficient colour fastness.

15. Rub fastness: 

Rub fastness means the resistance of thread against abrasion. The cloth may be rubbed in different ways in daily use. If the thread has not enough rub fastness then it will tear or the colour may be stripped or the stitch as well as seam may be harmed. So the thread should have enough rub fastness for its end use.

Sample:
We were supplied three types of thread:
1.Cotton sewing thread
2.Synthetic sewing thread
3.Embroidery thread

Atmosphere:
Temperature 26oC and humidity 70%.

Parameters found:
The following parameters we found of our samples:
1. Brand: Tiger & Coats.
2. Colour: Sewing threads are white & embroidery thread is blue.
3. Fibre type: Cotton & Polyester.
4. Count: 52/3 Tex or cotton ticket no. 52 & 50 Tex.
5. TPM & twist direction: Cotton thread no of twist 24, direction ‘S’ & another has no twist.
6. Ply: Cotton threads 3 & no. of filaments 23.
7. Length: Cotton thread 5000 m & synthetic thread 1000 m.
8. Tensile strength: Not found.
9. Tenacity: Not found.
10. Elongation at break: Not found.
11. Loop strength: Not found.
12. Lubrication: Not found.
13. Shrinkage: Not found.
14. Wash fastness: Not found.
15. Rub fastness: Not found.

Conclusion:
The experiment gives us an idea about different types of thread and their parameters that will help me to choose a good thread. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this experiment will be very helpful in my future life.

List of Trimmings for a Shirt, Trouser and Jacket | Prepare a TrimmingList of Shirt, Trouser and Jacket

Experiment name: Prepare a trimming list of shirt, trouser and jacket.

Introduction:
The materials used in a garment except cloth to make a complete garment are called trimmings. Some trimmings can be seen from outside whether some are not. Again some trimmings are used for increasing beauty whether some for only function.

Objectives:
To list out the trimming names.

List of trimmings:
Now the trimming list for shirt, trouser and jacket is given below:

For shirt:

1. Button
2. Sewing thread
3. Interlinning
4. Linning
5. Label

For trouser:

1. Button
2. Sewing thread
3. Linning
4. Zipper
5. Label

For jacket:

1. Button
2. Sewing thread
3. Linning
4. Zipper
5. Label

Brief Description of Trimmings:

Button:
Buttons are the hardware items used in conjunction with button for the fastening of garments. The purpose of using buttons are-
Functional purpose.
Decorative purpose.

Types of button:

1) according to no of holes:
· 2-hole button.
· 4-hole button.
· Special button
– Shank button
– Snap button.
– Decorative button.

2) According to ligne no:
According to ligne no there are various types of buttons. Lange is the measuring unit of button diameter.

Zipper:
In making trousers, skirts and jackets chain or zipper is an essential component which is used to open or close the opening of garment.

Purpose of zipper:
i) Functional purpose of zipper is as a part of a garment.
ii) Where zipper is used as a decorative purpose it increases the beauty of garment.

Types of zipper:
Metal zipper.
Polyester or nylon coil zipper.
Plastic-molded zipper.

Label:
No garments can be sold without some kind of label attached to it. Specially in case of exporting, label on a garment is a must. Label is a attached compound of garment on which important information regarding the garment are written on printed.

There are mainly 3-types of label:
1) Main label.
2) Size label.
3) Care label.

Lining:
Linings are generally a functional part of a garment. They are used variously to maintain the shape of a garment, to improve the hang and comfort by allowing it to slide over other garment.

Linings are joined to main garment by sewing and for this normal sewing machines are enough. The method of attaching lining to outer garments depends on the garment type and on whether it is fully or partially bagged out.

Interlining:
Interlinings are used to support, reinforced control the shape of some areas of garments such as collars, cuffs, waist bands, facings and the front of coats. They are attached by fusing.

Conclusion:
The experiment gives us an idea about different types of trimmings. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this experiment will be very helpful in my future life.

Garments Pattern | Pattern Making | To Make a Pattern for Trouser

Experiment name: To make a pattern for trouser.

Objectives:

1. To know how to make a pattern for trouser.
2. To know about its importance.

Introduction: 

A pattern is the actual copy of different parts of a garment that is made by cutting board paper after sketching on it. According to this pattern cloth is cut and then garment is made. For industrial production different patterns are made for different size and a marker is made with these different patterns for a large-scale production. Then many cloths are cut at a time and finally garments are made by large number of workers in garments industry.

Pattern making

Functions: 

Now making a pattern has some functions. These are as follows:

1. To sketch the parts primarily according to the body on paper.
2. To make pattern for different size by increasing measurements.
3. To make a marker for large-scale production.
4. To use these patterns made by standard body measurement for many times.
5. Finally to save time and money to make fast and cheaper production.

Measurements for trouser: 

For making different sizes pattern our students are divided in 7 groups. I was in group 2. A pattern size for trouser is indicated by its waist size. Group 2 was given waist size 74 cm. Now for making a pattern of trouser other measurements are given below:

Parameter ……………..Measurement

• Waist ……………………………74 cm
• Seat ……………………………. 94 cm
• Body Rise ……………………..27.2 cm
• Inside leg ………………………79 cm
• Bottom width …………………24 cm
• Waistband depth …………….4 cm

Now the parameters are discussed below:

1. Waist: It is the joint place of the upper body and lower body of human.
2. Seat: There is a point at the bottom centre of a trouser that is called cross point. Now the seat is about 6-7 cm above this cross point.
3. Body Rise: Body Rise is the sum of front rise and back rise.
4. Inside leg: The measure along the sewn from the cross point to the bottom.
5. Bottom width: The diameter of the bottom of a trouser.
6. Waistband depth: it is the depth of waistband where the belt is we wear the belt.

Different parts of a trouser:  

A trouser has the following 6 parts:

1. Two sides of leg: Top side and bottom side (both has left and right part).
2. Waistband: Two pieces for left and right. Left piece is bigger because of having hooks.
3. Belt loops: According to the wish of pattern maker there may 5, 6 or 7 loops.
4. Fly piece: Two pieces for left and right.
5. Pocket back: There are total 4 pieces with 2 pieces for each left and right side.
6. Pocket facing: Two pieces for left and right side.

Apparatus:

1. Board paper – 2 pieces
2. Pencil 2B - 2 pieces
3. Eraser - 1 piece
4. Meter scale - 1 piece
5. Set square - 1 piece
6. Calculator
7. Scissor - 1 piece

Working Procedure: 

For the advantage of working the procedure is divided in 4 parts:

1. Top side
2. Under side
3. Pocket bag
4. Pocket facing
5. Fly piece
6. Waistband.

1. Top side
At first take a board paper and spread it on a flat table. Mark a point at the left top corner of board paper keeping space from top about 1 cm and from left 21 cm. Give this point number 0.

Now from 0 draw 3 lines at right angles to each other to the bottom, right and left sides. Then;

0-1 Body rise 27.2 cm + 1 cm. Spread the line both right and left side at right angle.
1-2 Inside leg 79 cm. Spread the line both right and left side at right angle to 1-2 line.
2-3 ½ of (1-2) + 5 cm. Spread the line both right and left side at right angle to1-2 line.
1-4 ¼ of body rise. Spread the line both right and left side at right angle to 0-1 line.
1-5 1/12 of seat + 1.5 cm. Draw a normal from 5 on 1-5 line that indicate 6 & 7 points.
6-8 ¼ of seat + 2 cm.
5-9 1/16 of seat + 0.5 cm.
7-10 1 cm. Draw front curve adding 9, 6 & 10 points.
10-11 ¼ of waistband + 2.5 cm.
2-12 ½ of bottom width.
2-13 ½ of bottom width. 

Then joint 12-14 & 13-15 with straight lines. During making curve 11-8 expanding 0.5 cm at outside and 8-14 compressing 0.5 cm at inside lines are drawn. During making curve 9-15 compressing 1 cm at inside lines are drawn.

2. Under side
Now on the same board paper this pattern is drawn. But the paper is rotated at 180º angles that the previous topside now becomes the bottom side and the bottom side into topside. Mark a point at the left top corner of board paper keeping space from top about 1 cm and from left 21 cm. Like the previous topside pattern 1-16 is drawn and then;

5-16 ¼ of 1-5. Draw a normal from 16 on 1-16 line that indicates 17 & 18 points.
19 Mid-point of 16-18.
18-20 2 cm.
20-21 1 cm.
9-22 ½ of 5-9 + 0.5 cm.
22-23 0.5 cm.
Then draw beck fork adding 23, 19 & 21 points.
21-24 ¼ of waist + 4.5 cm.
25 Mid-point of waist (21-24). Draw a 12 cm length line from 25 point at the bottom at right angle to 21-24 line and make 2.5 cm width dart.

17-26 ¼ of seat + 3 cm.
12-27 2 cm.
13-28 2 cm.
14-29 2 cm.
15-30 2 cm. 

Then draw side seam adding 24, 26, 29 & 27 points and draw inside leg adding 23, 30 & 28 points. Mark a point D at 12 cm distant from point 25. This is the mid-point of face for making back pocket. At mid distant of 12 cm indicate the width of pocket 14 cm. Now adding 5 cm hem allowance the topside and under side patterns are cut.

3. Pocket bag
On the topside pattern mark a point A at the point 28. Then;
A-B 5 cm.
B-C 19 cm.
B-F 17 cm.
F-E 32 cm.
E-D 17 cm.
Adding A, B, C, D, E & F points the pocket bag is drawn. Now the 2nd board paper is taken and this pocket bag is copied on this.

4. Pocket facing
A point B is marked at suitable place under or side of the pocket bag. Then;
B-C 19 cm + 2 cm.
C-D 6 cm.

5. Fly piece
Mark a point A under the pocket facing. Then;
A-B 24 cm.
A-C 5 cm.

6. Waistband
A point G is marked under the fly piece keeping available space. The waistband has two parts: Left part and right part.

Left part
G-H 4cm
G-I ½ of waist
I-J 4 cm
H-K 0.5 cm
Add G, I, J, H & K.
I-L 4 cm (fly piece extension)
Draw a normal on the expanded of HJ line.

Right part
The same drawing from G-K is drawn. Then;
I-M 9 cm (button stand extension)
Draw a normal on the expanded of HJ line.
Now after adding necessary allowance to the pattern pieces these are cut.

Precautions:

1. The table should be flat and smooth.
2. The pencil used should be soft and sharp.
3. The eraser should be clean.
4. During drawing the line should be drawn at a time.
5. No over drawing is allowable.
6. Measurement should be taken carefully.
7. To draw normal set square should be used.
8. The scissor should be sharp.
9. When cutting the seam should be cut at a time otherwise rough edge is produced.

Conclusion:
Skillness, technical knowledge, analytical power of drawing and special ability on technology of making garments are necessary for pattern making. Special care is very essential here because if any fault is occurred during making pattern such as design or measure or lack of any piece and if these faults are not corrected before marker making then the whole production is cancelled. So we should have clear idea and sufficient knowledge on pattern making and should be very careful during pattern making.

Interlining | Use of Fusible Interlining | Produce a Collar & Cuff of aBasic Shirt by Using Fusible Interlining

Experiment name: Produce a collar & cuff of a basic shirt by using fusible interlining.

Introduction:
Interlinings are used to support, reinforce and control areas of garments such as collars, hems, facings and the fronts of jackets and coats. They may be sewn into the garment or they may be attached by means of fusing.

Although fusing is now very common as a method of garment construction, there are many fabrics which are not suitable for fusing, as well as the small manufacturers who do not have the requisite equipment. The complexity of interlinings used varies greatly between tailored wear, especially menswear, and other types of garments.

Objectives:

1. To produce collar and cuff of a basic shirt.
2. To know how to use fusible interlining.
3. To know about how to sew the collar and cuff attached fusible interlining.

Working Procedure:
At first we made the pattern of collar and cuff. Then we cut the fabrics according to the pattern design. After cutting two pieces of fabric for collar was taken and similarly two pieces of fabric for cuff was taken.

Then, interning for collar was taken and placed on one part of the collar fabric. Then that interlining was joined by proper heat. After that, another part of collar fabric was joined with that interlining part and then by sewing we got a complete collar part for a basic shirt.

Similarly, we get a complete part for cuff of a basic shirt.

Lab Condition:
During this experiment we faced some minor problem, like unavailability of sewing machine. Moreover there occurred a huge gathering in interlining section, which killed a lot of time.

Conclusion:
Interlinings are available in a wide variety of weights and construction to match the properties of the garment fabrics they will support. They can be woven or non woven, both of which can be constructed to give a different softness or resilience in different directions. And our teacher helped us properly to get a proper knowledge about that interlining. And this knowledge may be very helpful in our future industrial life.