Rubbing Fastness Test | Color Fastness To Rubbing

A fastness is a place, such as a castle, which is considered safe because it is difficult to reach or easy to defend against attack. This test is designed to determine the degree of color which may be transferred from the surface of a colored fabric to a specify test cloth for rubbing (which could be dry and Wet).

There are two test methods for rubbing fastness.

1.ISO-105-X12 

2.AATCC-08 

In ISO-105-X12 the wet pickup of the rubbing cloth is 100% .While in AATCC-08 the wet Pickup of the rubbing cloth is 65%.We check rubbing by Dry and Wet methods. In wet rubbing we wet the rubbing cloth according to test method and give rating by comparing the Staining with the gray scale.

Similarly for dry rubbing we check the rubbing with dry rubbing cloth and compare the staining With gray scale for ratings.Color Fastness to rubbing is a main test which is always required for every colored fabric either it is Printed or dyed.

If the color fastness to rubbing is good then its other properties like Washing fastness and durability etc improves automatically because the rubbing is a method to check the fixation of the color on the fabric. So if the fixation is good its washing properties will be good.

Rubbing Fastness depends on: 

• Nature of the Color 
• Depth of the Shade 

Construction of the FabricNature of the color Each color either it is pigment ,Reactive ,Disperse or direct has its own fastness properties to rubbing. There are some colors like black, Red ,Burgundy ,Navy blue which have poor Color fastness properties because of their chemical structure.

Like Black color is a carbon base color and the particle size of carbon is large than the other colors that’s why its rubbing properties are poor. Similarly red and blue are in the same case. So to improve the color fastness we add more binder to improve the fastness properties of these colors. It doesn’t mean that we can not achieve the best results with these colors. The required results can achieve but production cost will be increase. On the other hand the construction of the fabric also effects the fastness properties.

If the rubbing fastness on 100.80/40.40 is 3 on the gray scale it will be 2-3 on 52.52/22.22 with the same printing parameters. So always keep in mind these effects during finalize the required parameters with your customer .

Always Check 

• Quality construction 
• Color 
• Depth of the Color 
• End Use of the product

Results which we can achieve in Normal Conditions are

	Dark Shade	Medium shades	Light Shades
Dry	3-4	4	4-5
Wet	2-2.5	3	3.5-4

Panties and Bikinis | Types of Panty | A Brief History of Panty

Panty

Panty is a short underpants for women. Panties are a form of underwear, usually light and snug-fitting, designed to be worn by women or girls in the area directly below the waist. Typical components include an elastic waistband, a crotch panel to cover the genital area (usually lined with absorbent material such as cotton), and a pair of leg openings which, like the waistband, are often made of elastic. Panties have either no legs or in some cases very short ones.

A Brief History of Panty
The history of panties starts with the story of bloomers. The original purpose was modesty – covering up as much of the female form as possible. As hens are to the eggs so to bloomers are to panties. Typically it is a divided garment to cover the lower part of women. The first ones were the brainchild of Elizabeth Miller but Amelia Bloomer made it popular during the 1850’s. These were long baggy pants ending at the ankles. It was largely influenced by the East and often came to be called the ‘Syrian’ style. In the late 18th century the bloomers got two other nametags – knickers and knickerbockers. Women wore it during sports events during those days of Victorian modesty. From the 1920’s bloomers began to get short. For a classic visual of bloomers the best bet is to watch the bloomer-dance in the Hollywood classic ‘Seven Brides for Seven Brothers’ where the delightful brides prance around bloomers, the ancestors of panties!

The post-war period saw an outburst or outrage of female modesty dominated by the bra-panty culture. Somehow freedom for women and women’s right became mixed up with exposure of the exquisite female form, leaving little to the imagination. Some interpreted it as a hidden fear and doubt about the natural appeal of the female towards the opposite sex, as Nature meant it to be. Hence the urgency to establish and advertise it aggressively! Another explanation is that the post-war period saw a boom in business and advertising. The least amount of material was turned into a costly piece of garment. The gullible public swallowed the bait and the undergarment made its dominating presence felt – often to the point of ridicule and invasion of human decency and privacy.

In the 1940s, new styles of women’s undergarments became available in the West that possessed a greater sense of sexuality focused on comfort and individuality, versus functionality and conformance to a certain body type; they were glamorized even more by models such as Bettie Page.

Today more than a piece of clothing that covers and comforts the panty has become an object of sexuality. But is the operation table, with the spread-eagled human form, the alpha of sensuality? Sex is something far more – deep and sensual – than mere exposure of the beast in the urban jungle.

From the 1920’s the hemline of skirts began to rise and importance came to be given from what peeped out from under it. The original panties were made from silk or artificial silk called rayon. After that nylon came to be use. Skin problems and other related headaches is causing a rethinking and going back to cotton. This is however turning out to be a costly affair.

The panty started its journey with the original purpose of covering the intimate part of a woman even she suddenly fell or jumped about. It spelt freedom from prowling eyes. The panty covers the mysterious deep junction between the legs. Eminent sociologist Margaret Mead says that the maleness and femaleness is inherent and woven into the fabric of our body as well as mind from childhood. It is genetically programmed. Mead points out that when a baby girl falls she spontaneously brings together her hands in front below the stomach. Whereas when a boy falls he spreads his arms across on both sides. Everything in woman is inside. Everything in man is outside.

Apart from the modesty factor the panty protects the woman from infections while she goes about her work in this modern world. The panty material should be able to breathe – otherwise it will itself be a source of trouble. Moreover the panty should be washed daily and should definitely not be shared on grounds of long-term health and hygiene.

The panty culture has developed a language of its own and one of the terms is panty-line or visible-panty-line (VPL). It is the provocative outline of the undergarment teasing through the outer clothing. The Panty-line also came to be known as the bikini-line. Of late there is very little difference between the bikini and the panty. Womankind is somehow holding onto a wisp of cloth to save her modesty and her civilization.

Pantyhose is another name in the panty business. These are sheers of extremely close fittings covering the body from the waist and reaching down to the feet. These resemble stockings and are made from nylon. It made its entry in USA during the 1960’s as an alternative to stockings. It is not necessary to wear any other undergarment below it. In UK these are termed ‘tights’ but with a variation in meaning. It need not be tight fighting but can be made from any stretchable material like spandex. Usually women wear it during physical exercises. In the tropical countries the entry of panties has been fairly recent. Overnight it has led to a market boom. But the panty does not go with the stifling humid sweaty climate of the tropics where the body needs to be aired as long as possible. It has led to a rise in hitherto unknown skin problems – this being a boon for pharmaceutical business.

A whole culture, for good or bad, has come to revolve round the panty. Much to the agony of health addict regular sales of second hand panties are becoming quite common. It is not unknown that even after vigorous washing; items of clothing do not become totally free from germs and vermin. There is a regular auction of panties and other items of undergarments worn by celebrities like Marylyn Monroe. It depends on one’s bent of mind whether to shudder or to cheer at such displays of civilized mankind.

In a recent online news it was reported that at Stansted Airport a 29 year old man hit the headlines as the panty-thief! He was the baggage handler at the airport and admitted to stealing panties. His colleagues saw him searching and removing these delightful items from passenger’s luggage. Three hundred pairs were carefully stored in his home. He was given an 18-month sentence with a fine. The sentence was relatively lenient as the motive was not greed but psychological. Society seems to be beginning to pay for allowing a free hand to greedy manufacturers and their partners – the media gangs.

Types of Panty
Panties are divided into various types based on such criteria as amount of rear coverage, width at the sides, and height at which they are worn. These categories are not necessarily distinct and usage may vary somewhat among brands.

Briefs rise to the waist or just below the navel and have full coverage in the rear. 

Classic (or full) brief - the sides extend below the hip 

High-cut (French cut) brief - the sides are somewhat narrower. 

Boyleg briefs (or boyshorts) - styled after men’s briefs and may have short legs extending below the crotch.
Control panties (or control briefs) - a special type of briefs designed to offer support and give a slimmer appearance; these usually contain a stretch material such as spandex and may extend above the waist.
Hipsters are similar to briefs, but are worn lower with the waistband around the hips. 

Bikinis are also worn at the hips, but the fabric at the sides is narrower. In the string bikini, it disappears altogether to leave the waistband as a “string”. The rear coverage of the bikini is not as full as with the brief. Bikini is the most widely worn style among women worldwide. Tangas have full rear coverage, but the waistband is reduced to a narrow strip at the sides. Thongs have a waistband similar to tangas, but the rear coverage is not as full. The crotch is extended to the back with a narrow strip of fabric fitting between the buttocks, which becomes wider toward the top. he G-string is a thong with virtually no rear coverage, the narrow strip in the back extending from the crotch all the way to the waistband. It shows most of the buttocks.

Analysis of Regular Weft Rib Woven Fabric

Experiment name: Analysis of woven fabric(Regular Weft Rib).

Object:
1. To know the fabric specification.
2. To know the raw material of fabric.
3. To produce exactly the similar fabric.

Sample: A piece of plain woven fabric.

Apparatus:
1. Counting glass,
2. Needle,
3. Beesleys balance,
4. Twist tester,
5. GSM cutter,
6. Graph paper.

Analysis:
1. Weave plan: In graph paper the gaps between the lines are considered according to X axis as weft threads and according to Y axis as warp threads. Now indicating the up threads by filling gaps and down threads without filling gaps the weave plan is drawn. 

2. Drafting plan: According to British system drafting plan is drawn at the top of weave plan. Here two heald shafts are used to draw the drafting plan. 

3. Lifting plan: The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan. 

4. Face side and Back side: As the cloth is constructed with plain fabric construction, face and back side is not same. Face side appearance is smooth and glassy than back side appearance. 

5. Direction of warp and weft: Direction of both warp and weft are indicated by arrow marks as shown in the sample. Selvedge direction is always warp direction and warp direction is more straight and parallel than weft direction. No. of yarn in warp is more than weft. 

6. Raw material: Both weft warp yarns are cotton. 

7. Thread density: No. of ends per inch or EPI =104, No. of picks per inch or PPI = 22. 

8. Yarn count :

• Warp yarn count
• Weft yarn count

Count of warp yarn is 28 and weft yarn is 30.

9. Yarn twist:

• Warp yarn 
• Weft yarn

Twist of warp yarn is 23and weft yarn is 23.

10. Twist direction: Both warp and weft yarns are twisted in ‘Z’ direction.

11. Design of fabric: The fabric is designed as one up and one down i.e. if all even numbered warp ends are raised at one pick then all odd numbered ones are raised at other picks.

12. GSM calculation: We take one square inch fabric sample and find its weight 0.07 gm.
We know 1 inch = 2.54 cm i.e. 0.0254 m. So, 1 sq. inch = (0.0254X0.0254) sq. m.
Now, (0.0254X0.0254) sq. m sample wt. = 0.07 gm
1 sq. m sample wt. = 108.5 gm
Therefore GSM of fabric is 108.5gms/sq. inch

13. Repeat size: 8x2. The repeat contains 2 ends and 2 picks.

14. Type of loom  : Tappet loom is used to produce this plain woven fabric.

15. End use: Different types of apparel such as shirt, lungi, shari; bed sheet, bedcover, pillow cover, and many other uses.

Conclusion: 

Analysis of fabric structure is very important to know about the fabric which is needed to reproduce or to change structure or design of fabric. By this practical I gathered the knowledge how to analyses primarily a simple plain structure of woven fabric which will be very helpful in future.