Sanforizing/Anti-Shrinkage Finishing | Sanforizing Finishing Process

Sanforizing:

Sanforizing is a controlled compressive shrinkage process, which is applied on woven fabric to achieve shrinkage before making the garments. After sanforizing the residual shrinkage of woven fabric may be zero. In sanforizing process shrinkage is achieve by passing the cotton fabric onto a movable elastic felt blanket is released it assumes a shortened conditional. Thus the cotton fabric is forced to conform this compression.

Residual Shrinkage:
Residual Shrinkage is the latent shrinkage of a fiber ,Filament, yarn or fabric.

The shrinkage amount of fabric is dependent on:
1. The nature of fibers
2. The character of threads
3. The way of interlacing of thread in the fabric.
4. Crimp in yarn.
5. Cycle of washing no. of washing.

Sanforizing Process:
Sanforizing is a mechanical finishing process of treating textile fabrics to prevent the normal dimensional alternation of warp and weft. It is also called anti-shrinkage finishing process. It is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and most textiles made from natural or chemical fibres, patented by Sanford Lockwood Cluett (1874–1968) in 1930. It is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width, before cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after washing .

Simplified diagram of the sanforizing method of producing shrinkage

Sanforizing process is based on the principle that when a elastic felt blanket is passed around a metal roller in contact with it, its outer surface is process extended and the inner surface contracted. So the process is called controlled compressive shrinkage process.

Ginning | Cotton Ginning Process | Types of Ginning

Ginning

Ginning is the process of separating the cotton fibers from the cotton seeds. Perfect ginning operation would be performed if the separation of fibers from seed was effected without the slightest injury to either seeds or to the fiber. A cotton gin is a machine that quickly and easily separates the cotton fibers from the seeds, a job previously done by hand. These seeds are either used again to grow more cotton or, if badly damaged, are disposed of. It uses a combination of a wire screen and small wire hooks to pull the cotton through the screen, while brushes continuously remove the loose cotton lint to prevent jams. The term “gin” is an abbreviation for engine, and means “machine”.

Types of Ginning

Previous to the introduction of Modern Machinery, ginning was performed by hand or by machines of a primitive character such as the “Foot Roller” and its improvement the “Churka”.

As the cotton industry developed, greater production than these were capable of was necessary, and machines driven by power were introduced. Numerous forms of gins have been tried, but at the present time only three are used to any large extent. They are

1. Knife Roller Gin / Roller Gin

2. Saw Gin
3. Macarthy Gin

Three Types Of Macarthy Gins

i. Single acting Macarthy Gin.

ii. Double acting Macarthy Gin

iii. Double roller Macarthy Gin / Double Roller Gin

Analysis of Woven Fabric Structure (Twill)

Experiment name: Analysis of woven fabric(Twill).

Object:
1. To sketch the structure of fabric.
2. To know about the raw material of fabric.
3. To know about different specifications of fabric.

Sample:
A piece of plain woven fabric.

Apparatus:
1. Counting glass,
2. Needle,
3. Beesleys balance,
4. Twist tester,
5. GSM cutter,
6. Graph paper.

Analysis:
1. Weave plan: In graph the gaps between the lines are considered according to X axis as weft threads and according to Y axis as warp threads. The up threads are indicated by filling up the gaps and down threads without filling up the gaps.

2. Drafting plan: According to British system drafting plan is drawn at the top of weave plan. Here straight draft is used to draft the plan.

3. Lifting plan: The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan.

4. Face side and backside: The face and backside can not be easily understood.

5. Direction of warp and weft: Direction of both warp and weft are indicated by arrow marks by the side of the sample.

6. Raw material: Both warp and weft yarns are cotton.

7. Thread density:

No. of reading	EPI	Average	PPI	Average
1	90	90	76	76
2	91		75
3	90		75
4	92		76
5	91		74

8. Yarn count:

No. of reading	Warp count	Average	Weft count	Average
1	55	55	41	42
2	54		42
3	53		40
4	55		43
5	54		41

9. Yarn twist: Both warp and weft yarns have no twist.

10. Design of fabric: Color and weave effect is used to design the fabric and Z twill is used as basic design. Two colors are used in both warp and weft way. In warp color ratios are 4:2, 4:4, 2:4 & 2:2 and in weft 2:2, 4:2 & 4:4.

11. GSM calculation: By GSM cutter we cut the fabric. Then weight by electric balance. We find the GSM of fabric is 124 gm/meter2.

12. Repeat size: The repeat size of this fabric is 4´ 4.

13. Type of loom:  Jacquard loom is used to produce this fabric.

14. End use: This type of fabric is used for making coat and suited cloth. It is used for wear cloth and house furnishing cloth etc.

Conclusion:
Analysis of fabric structure is very essential to know about the fabric. Because it gives all kinds of information about the fabric that is needed to reproduce or to change structure or design of fabric. By this practical I learn how to analyse primarily a simple plain structure of woven fabric. Further I will learn more complex fabric analysis. But this basic structure analysis will be very much helpful not only to analyse those but also in my future career.

List of Best Textile Engineering Universities/Colleges in Malaysia |Textile Courses in Malaysia

Textile engineering study is not popular in Malaysia as like as India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. However some university offer textile engineering courses. This is the list of links to many of the Textile Engineering Schools, Colleges, Institutes and University departments that offer textile engineering as a program in the Malaysia.

KBU International College
No.1, Persiaran Bukit Utama, Bandar Utama,
47800 Petaling Jaya,
Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia.
Tel: +603-7727 3200
Fax: +603-7727 2733
Web: http://www.kbu.edu.my/

Universiti Malaysia Sarawak
Kota Samarahan, Sarawak, Malaysia
address: Jalan Dato’ Musa94300 Kota SamarahanMalaysia
telephone: +60 (82) 671 000
website URL: http://www.unimas.my/
subjects include:Fabric & Textile,Fashion & Apparel.

Raffles Design Institute
Courses offered:Fashion Design Fashion
Marketing & Management
Jewellery Design
website URL:http://www.raffles-international-college.edu.my/

Monash University
Jalan Lagoon Selatan,
Bandar Sunway, 46150,
Selangor Darul Ehsan,
Malaysia
011-60-3-5514-6000
Web: www.monash.edu.my

The University of Nottingham Malaysia Campus
Jalan Broga
43500 Semenyih
Selangor Darul Ehsan
Malaysia
011-60-3-8924-8000
Web: www.nottingham.edu.my

University of Malaya
50603 Kuala Lumpur
Malaysia
011-60-3-7967-3279
Web: www.um.edu.my