Process Sequence of Cutting Section | Flow Chart of Cutting DuringGarment Manufacturing

Cutting section is one of the most important section for manufacturing garments in Garments Factory.There is a process or sequence which is strictly followed in the cutting section of a garment manufacturing industry.

Process Sequence in Cutting Room: 

Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay
↓
Fabric Cutting
↓
Numbering
↓
100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.
↓
Shorting & Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling

Operation of Cutting During Garments Manufacturing are given below in details: 

Marker Making:
The measuring department determines the fabric yardage needed for each style and size of garment. Computer software helps the technicians create the optimum fabric layout to suggest so fabric can be used efficiently. Markers, made in accordance to the patterns are attached to the fabric with the help of adhesive stripping or staples. Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted during cutting operation. After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of how much fabric he has to order in advance for the construction of garments. Therefore careful execution is important in this step.Computer marking is done on speciallized softwares. In computerized marking there is no need of large paper sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical calculations are made instead to know how much fabric is required.

Fabric Spreading:
With the help of spreading machines, fabric is stacked on one another in reaches or lays that may go over 100 ft (30.5 m) long and hundreds of plies (fabric pieces) thick.

Cutting:
The fabric is then cut with the help of cloth cutting machines suitable for the type of the cloth. These can be band cutters having similar work method like that of band saws; cutters having rotary blades; machines having reciprocal blades which saw up and down; die clickers similar to die or punch press; or computerized machines that use either blades or laser beams to cut the fabric in desired shapes.

Sorting/Bundling:
The sorter sorts the patterns according to size and design and makes bundles of them. This step requires much precision because making bundles of mismatched patterns can create severe problems. On each bundle there are specifications of the style size and the marker too is attached with it.

Sewing/Assembling:
The sorted bundles of fabrics are now ready to be stitched. Large garment manufacturers have their own sewing units other use to give the fabrics on contract to other contractors. Stitching in-house is preferable because one can maintain quality control during the processing. On the other hand if contractors are hired keeping eye on quality is difficult unless the contactor is one who precisely controls the process.

There are what is called sewing stations for sewing different parts of the cut pieces. In this workplace, there are many operators who perform a single operation. One operator may make only straight seams, while another may make sleeve insets. Yet another two operators can sew the waist seams, and make buttonholes. Various industrial sewing machines too have different types of stitches that they can make. These machines also have different configuration of the frame. Some machines work sequentially and feed their finished step directly into the next machine, while the gang machines have multiple machines performing the same operation supervised by a single operator. All these factors decide what parts of a garment can be sewn at that station. Finally, the sewn parts of the garment, such as sleeves or pant legs, are assembled together to give the final form to the clothing.

Fabric Strength Tester | Determination of Heavy Fabric Strength byHorizontal Strength Tester

Name of the Experiment: Determination of heavy fabric strength by horizontal strength tester.

Introduction:
The strength of a fabric gives us an idea how much load we can apply on it and it is very important for fabric. The strength of the fabric is very necessary for it because if the fabric strength is not good then it will break with excessive tensile force and thus the dresses produced may tear with the outside force. The strength of a fabric varies with EPI, PPI, and Count Variation. The strength of the fabric also varies if the length and width of the fabric to be tested is changed. The strength of the fabric also depends on the construction of the fabric. A plain fabric is stronger than a twill fabric if made from yarn of same count. 

Fabric Strength Tester

The m/c used here is a horizontal strength tester. Therefore, the experiment has two objects:

1. To find out the strength of the fabric.
2. To be precise in testing.

Theory:
Strength is a measure of the steady force necessary to break a material and is measured in pound. The m/c works in constant rate of extension principle. When the tension is high on the fabric then the fabric breaks.

Apparatus:

1. Heavy fabric.
2. Fabric strength tester.
3. Scissors.

M/c specification:
The Fabric Strength Tester
Goodbrand & Co. Ltd.
Capacity: 2000lb

Testing atmosphere:
Temperature – 29oC and relative humidity – 76%
Standard atmosphere: temperature – 20oC and relative humidity - 65%.

Sample:
Size – 6inch × 2inch.
No. of sample – 20 (For warp way-10, for weft way-10).

Working procedure:

1. At first 10inch × 2inch fabric was cut out from a big piece of fabric. The excess amount of fabric was cut because the two jaws will require at least 2inch each to grip the fabric. Thus 10 samples were cut down for testing warp way strength and 10 samples for weft way strength.
2. Now, the first sample is fixed with the upper jaw J1 and the lower jaw J2.
3. The m/c is started and observed the dial until the sample is torn out.
4. When the sample is torn out the m/c is stopped and the reading is taken.
5. By this way the others’ reading are taken.
6. At last average and CV% are calculated.

Data: 
Warp way:

Reading	Fabric strength (Lbs)	Avg strength (Lbs)	SD%	CV%
1	290	300.5	3.06	4.32
2	320
3	290
4	290
5	295

Weft way:

Reading	Fabric strength (lbs)	Avg strength (lbs)	SD%	CV%
1	190	189	3.08	4.92
2	180
3	200
4	190
5	200

Calculation:
The average warp way strength = 300.5 lbs
The average weft way strength= 189 lbs

Remark:
The strength of a fabric varies with (1) EPI variation, (2) PPI variation & (3) Count variation. The strength of the fabric also varies if the length and width of the fabric to be tested is changed. If we take a sample which size is 3inch×6inch and another sample size 2inch×6inch then the strength of the first sample will be greater than the second one. Thus if we increase the length of the second sample then the strength of the second sample will be decreased. The strength of the fabric also depends on the construction of the fabric. A plain fabric is stronger than a twill fabric if made from yarn of same count. The CV% for warp =4.62% &for weft =4.92%. it means there is a lot of variation in strength of the fabric.