Process Flow Chart of Sewing Thread | Different Types of Packages areUsed in Sewing Threads

A thread is a large number of very thin fibers spun together, used in the manufacture of textiles and in sewing. Or In hardware a thread is used to connect two things together, such as a screw to a piece of wood or two segments of a hose.

The process flow chart for the manufacture of sewing threads is shown in the flow chart.

Functions of various machines in sewing thread manufacturing process:

Yarn singeing

Sewing thread must be singed to ensure that the projecting fibres do not interfere with downstream processing. Percentage of singeing can be achieved varied by varying the yarn collection speed. Hair removal efficiency at singeing machine is normally 30 - 50%. Flame temperature is around 800 oC. Singeing is mainly done in Cotton Sewing Threads.

Features

1. The heart of the machine - the burner, serves to singe reliably the projecting fibres of yarn running through at high speed, without inflicting burns on yarn itself. There is a choice between the gas burner and the electric burner. Gas burner are widely used. The gas burner consumes about 55 gm of natural, propane or butane gas an hour, depending on singeing rate and yarn type. 
2. Speed: 300-1200 m/min.

Hank to cone winding

• Conversion of hank in to cone of suitable weight

• Waxing for reducing co-officient of friction in sewing thread .

Features of new machines:

• Twin Input Rollers: At the front of the head are the twin-input rollers, set to a fixed speed but proportional to the winding speed. The main functions of this unit are to eliminate unwanted tensions prior to yarn entering waxing unit. 

• The speed of machine ranging from 400-700 mpm, with possible traverse from150-200 mm.

Polishing

Some threads for special end uses like leather industries, bag stitching, kite flying are treated with starch, softeners, whitener, etc on this machine. Cooked starch is mixed with other chemicals and different recipes are made for different qualities depending on the end uses. 

Main objectives of polishing are:

• Extra ordinary smooth surface 

• Thread becomes round.

• Stiffness increases.

• Increase in tensile strength (7-10%).

Cross winding and lubrication

• Winding in various types of sewing thread packages like cone, cop , tube, ball, vicone and spool.

• Threads are treated with special waxes for achieving best workability during sewing operation.

• Lick roller lubrication is applied on industrial sewing thread where thread has to run on high speed sewing machine; the basic ingredient of the most of the lubricants is parafin wax. Although silicones are also used because of their stability to heat and various additives are also included to give some special properties.

Geometry of packages

Threads are wound in many forms. Small length spools are employed in retail store distribution, whereas somewhat larger spools are used to a limited extent industrially. Some of the very fine soft threads are wound on cones, very coarse soft threads are in skein form, but the largest proportion by far is wound on the one headed tube with base or straight tubes. These packages in some instances are put on a weight basis; however, the larger percentage is marked on a length basis. Ready-wound bobbins in a number of styles to accommodate the various sewing machines employed are also available. Cross winding threads are generally laid in with traverse ratio 1: 6 (one double traverse = six spindle revolution) and 1: 4 for coarser counts.

The following types of packages are used in sewing threads (with commonly used dimensions).

Spool: Spools are small flanged plastic or wooden bobbins, they are both with tapered (so-called Diabolo spools) and straight flanges. Mainly parallel winding (because side unwinding is easy) is done. Cross-windings are also possible on the spools. They contain relatively short length of 100-500 meter thread. The length of traverse on spool is 2.9-3.8 cm.

End uses: Upholstery, footwear, leather goods manufacturing, and in hand sewing operations. 

Cop:

Cops are small cylindrical flangeless spools, with precision cross winding. They are mostly made of paper and plastic. They are of two types, small Cop (Tube) and medium Cop (Cop). The lack of flanges facilitates regular off winding on industrial sewing machines although their small diameter makes them less well suited to the faster thread take off machines. Smaller Cops are popular make-up in fashion trades, where a variety of shades are used and production runs for any one colour or style of garments. The length of thread wound ranges from 100-2000 m on small cop and 400-4000 m on cop. The length of traverse on small cop is 5 - 6.3 cm and on cop is10 cm.

End uses: Kite flying, Upholstery, ready-made garment, tailoring, hosiery, umbrella, and shoe stitching

Cone: 

This is self-supporting, cross wound conical package. It is easier to withdraw yarn over end from a cone than from a cheese and because of this, cone is more widely used. They contain relatively long lengths 1000-25000 m with length of traverse ranging from 10-15 cm. They give trouble free thread unwinding at intermittent or continuous high speeds. Cones are the most economical packages for conventional sewing threads in situations where thread consumption is high and production runs are long.

End uses: ready made garment, tailoring, hosiery, leather stitching, Upholstery, shoe stitching, denim, embroidery, and kite flying.

Vicone or King Spool: 

Vicones are parallel tubes or low angled cones with an additional base in the form of a raised flange, which may incorporate a small tip. The build of vicone depends on the exact conformity of the taper with the angle of vicone’s base. Coarse yarns require a large traverse for the taper — fine yarn a small one. They contain lengths of 1000-5000 m with length of traverse 6.5-9 cm.

End uses: embroidery, core-spun, and filament threads .

Prewound Bobbin:

Prewound bobbins are precision parallel wound thread package designed to replace metal bobbins on a variety of lock stitch machines.

Skein: 

A very small hank of soft twisted plied thread (around 8 m) of coarse count, is parallel wound with the help rotating flyer, which withdraws the thread from the supply package cone. 

End uses: embroidery.

Ball: 

A typical ball like structure, wound with the help of four types of different winding. They are: Rough base winding, form winding, surface layer winding, and circumference winding. The initial winding provides firmness at the base. Next winding process makes space for placing the identification ticket. The third stage of winding provides firm gripping of the ticket. The last stage of winding makes a band over the ball, which retains its shape. An easy unwinding of thread is possible.

End uses: embroidery, fishing net and bag closing.

Cocoon: 

Cocoons are self-supporting i.e. center-less thread package specially designed for the insertion in the shuttle of multi needle quilting and some types of embroidery. Cocoons are used in the shuttle of multi needle quilting and some types of embroidery machines.

List of Textile Engineering Universities/Colleges of Bangladesh

Textile Engineering is the most wanted subject for maximum students in Bangladesh now a days. Because of high career opportunity. Bangladesh is one of the leading RMG exporter country in the current world. So demand of textile technologists are high in textile related industries. For fulfilling the demand of Textile Education in Bangladesh some Universities open textile engineering course.

BUTEX

List of Textile Engineering Universities/Colleges of Bangladesh

Public Universities/Colleges: 

01. Bangladesh University of Textiles
92, Shaheed Tajuddin Ahmed Sarani
Tejgaon I/A, Dhaka-1208, Bangladesh
Tel : +880-2-9114260, Fax : +880-2-9124255
Web site : http://butex.edu.bd/

02. Khulna University of Engineering & Technology (KUET)
Khulna -9203
Phone: +88041-769468-75

Web: www.kuet.ac.bd/TE

03. Begumgonj Textile Engineering College
Begumgonj, Noakhali-3821

Phone #  0321-51758,
Affiliations: Bangladesh University of Textiles

Web: http://btec.jimdo.com/

04. Textile Engineering College, Zorarganj, Chittagong
Mirsori, Chittagong
Affiliations: Bangladesh University of Textiles
Web: www.ctec.gov.bd

05. Pabna Textile Engineering College
Shalgaria, Pabna

Affiliations: Bangladesh University of Textiles
Web: http://www.pabtec.gov.bd/ 

06. Mawlana Bhasani University of Science & Technology
Santus,Tangail
Web: http://www.mbstu.ac.bd/

07. Dhaka University of Engineering & Technology.
Gazipur
Web: http://www.duet.ac.bd/

08. Bangabandhu Textile Engineering College
Tangail
 Phone: 0923-373176
Website: www.titangail.gov.bd

09. Abdur Rab Serniabat Textile Engineering College
Barisal
Affiliations: Bangladesh University of Textiles 
Web: http://arstecb.com


Private Universities/Colleges: 

01. Ahsanullah University of Science Technology
Address: 141 & 142, Love Road, Tejgaon Industrial Area, Dhaka-1208.
Phone: (8802) 9897311, Ext. 103, 114, Fax : (8802) 986056
Email: info@aust.edu
Web: www.aust.edu

02. Daffodil International University
Address: 102, Shukrabad, Mirpur Road,
Dhanmondi, Dhaka-1207, Bangladesh.
Phone: 9138234-5, 9116774, 9136694
Email: info@daffodilvarsity.edu.bd
Web: www.daffodilvarsity.edu.bd 

03. Southeast University (Bangladesh)
House# 64, Road# 18, Block # B, Banani, Dhaka
Phone: 880-2-,880-2-,880-2-9882340,8835222
Fax: 880-2-9892914
e-mail: info@seu.ac.bd
web: www.seu.ac.bd

  04. University of South Asia
House No - 76 -78, Road No - 14
Block - B , Banani , Dhaka-1213.
Phone: 880-2-8857073-5
Fax-880: 2-8313308
E-mail-info@unisa.ac.bd
web: www.unisa.ac.bd

05. Victoria University of Bangladesh
58/11/A (3rd floor),
Panthapath, Dhaka-1205.
Tel : 8622634-5,
Fax : +88-02-8622635
E-mail : info@vub.edu.bd
web: vub.edu.bd

06. Green University Bangladesh
Web: http://www.green.edu.bd/

07. BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology
Established : November 1999
Type: Private
President: Muzaffar Uddin Siddique
Location 105, Uttara Commercial Area, Uttara, Dhaka, Bangladesh
Campus : Urban area
Nickname: BIFT
Affiliations: Bangladesh National University
Website: http://www.bift.info/

08. National Institute of Fashion Technology(NIFT)
National Institute of Fashion Technology - Bangladesh Road #28, House #3691206 Dhaka (Dacca)Bangladesh (Bengal)
tel: +880 (1) 7131 16313
url:http://www.nift.edu.bd
email: alim@nift.edu.bd
public relations: Alim Abdul
subjects: Fashion Design

09. City University
Web: http://www.cityuniversity.edu.bd/

10. Primeasia University
Web: www.test.primeasia.edu.bd

11. Atish Dipankor University of Science & Technology 
Web: http://www.atishdipankaruniversity.edu.bd/

12. World University of Bangladesh
 Address: DHANMONDI UNIT-1 House-20, Road-7,
A.R.A Center (on Mirpur Road), Dhaka-1205,
Tel: 8144631-2; 8142046; 01552339906; 01813930223
Phone: 8144631-2; 9667435-6; 8155308;
Email: info@wub.edu
Web: www.wub.edu

13. National Institute of Textile Training Research & Design
Nick Name: NITTRAD
Nayarhat, Savar, Dhaka 1350.
Phone#+88 02 77 91 975.
Email: ank.nittrad.edu.bd
Web: www.nittrad.edu.bd

14. Northern University Bangladesh
Web: www.nub.ac.bd
Holding no-13, Road no -17
Banani C/A, Dhaka- 1213 

15. The People’s University of Bangladesh
Phone: 02-9127807
Website: www.pub.ac.bd
 
16. Bangladesh University of Business & Technology (BUBT)
Address: Rupnagar Road, Mirpur, Dhaka, Bangladesh
Phone: (0)88 02 8057581
Founded: 2003 
Web: www.bubt.edu.bd

17. European University of Bangladesh (EUB)

Phone: +88 01930 544 725, +88 01711 200 772
Web: http://www.eub.edu.bd/

  
18. Bangladesh Textile Engineering College
Shahid Tajuddin Ahmed Sharoni Mohakhali, Dhaka-1212 Bangladesh
Email: email 1: info@btec-bd.net
email 2: btec@bdonline.com
web:http://www.btec-bd.net
Phone: office# 8854869, 9863371

19. Sikder College of Textile & Fashion Technology (SCTFT)
Academic Campus:1101/1, Malibagh Chowdhury Para , Dhaka-1219, Bangladesh
Phone: + 880 - 2- 9340385 Extn-109, 129
Cell : 01714-289892, 01818-482533, 01719-233427
Practical Campus-1 : Khadun, Tarabo, Rupshi, Narayanganj
Practical Campus-2: Baniadi, Mura para, Rupganj, Narayanganj.
URL: http://www.sctft.org/

20. Raffles Design Institute - Dhaka
Saimon Centre, House-4/ARoad-22, Gulshan Commercial Area1205 Dhaka (Dacca)Bangladesh (Bengal)
tel: +880 (2) 9900 2217
fax: +880 (2) 9922 7862
url:http://www.raffles-design-institute.com
email: zillemowla@raffles-design-institute.com
public relations: Zille Mowla
subjects: Fashion Design,Fashion Marketing.

21. Shyamoli Textile Engineering College
Mohammadpur, Dhaka-1207
Website: www.stecbd.com 

 Reference:  Prothom-alo (2nd January, 2012)

Milk or Casein Fiber | Manufacturing Process of Milk Fiber | Application of Milk Fiber

Milk Fiber:Milk fiber is a blend of casein protein and the chemical acrylonitrile, which is used to make acrylic. It’s made using a process that is similar to rayon/viscose, but because it’s a regenerated protein fiber and not a regenerated cellulose fiber, it reacts like wool. That means that it dyes like wool and even smells like wool when burned, according to Kiplinger. 

Milk fiber

Characteristics of Milk Fiber:

1. In milk fibre,the natural protein humectant factor is present,which makes the skin delicate and smooth…
2. It absorbs moisture very well as it is hygroscopic in nature.
3. It is antibacterial and antifungal as amino acids present in the fibre.
4. It is glossy and luxurious in appearance,feel and comfortability, just like silk..
5. It is very easy to dye and can be dyed under normal temperature.














































6. It can be blended well with other different fiares,such as tencel,cotton,bamboo,modal fibre.

History of Casein or Milk Fiber:
According to Euroflax Industries, milk fiber was invented in 1930’s in both Italy and America and was called “milk casein.” Huh. Who knew? And here I thought it was some newfangled invention. But apparently it’s been around for a while. Whoa. For a longwhile! Crazily enough, casein was inventedway before the 1930s – apparently they’ve discovered that many churches from the 14th and 15th centuries were painted with casein-based paints – the colors are still bright and unfaded even to this day! Well, apparently this milk casein stuff is great for paint. But how does that connect with milk fiber?

Apparently “milk casein” fiber was used in many clothing and household items in America and Europe during the 1930s and ’40s, says Joan Kiplinger of Fabrics.net. It was substitute for wool, which was needed by men on the front lines. However, it fell out of use after WWII ended and newer, cheaper synthetics such as nylon grew in popularity. The fiber was blended with other natural fibers and known under the brand names of Aralac, Lanatil and Merinova, for those of you checking your vintage clothing labels. While these brands’ fabrics were very similar to wool and could be dyed by the same processes, apparently there were some flaws with the milk casein fiber – namely, that it was not as strong and firm, nor as elastic as wool, and the fibers mildewed easily when they got damp.

Production Process of Milk Fiber:
Milk protein fiber production line application processing system can not do without the cooperation of the link. Shanghai is home on R & D Technology Co., Ltd. milk silk protein fibers, also engaged in spinning, dyeing and finishing of technical research, raw material quality, technology is complete, customers can better support the promotion of milk fiber.

Milk protein fiber can be used, in theory, cationic dyes, direct dyes, acid dyes, reactive dyes, neutral dyes, generally more than the actual cationic dye and reactive dye used is suitable for pure milk protein fiber and its products, such as staple fiber, yarn line, knitted fabrics, woven fabrics and garments. Period in order to milk protein fiber textiles as an example of pure cationic dyes and reactive dyes on the usage described as follows.

Flow chart of milk fiber

After Treatment of Milk Fiber:
Cationic dyes and finishing the first treatment process, due to temperature and moisture absorption of the products are strong, so do not need special treatment. With 60 ?water, liquid running back 10s, and then the second can of cold wash. In the special white process, the use of prescription and bleaching conditions were as follows: 5% sodium hydrosulfite (95 ?with warm water even after accession); 5% of the standard soap powder (use warm water even after the accession), not alkaline , does not contain brighteners; bath ratio 1:20 ~ 30; temperature of 95 ~ 98 ? time is about 15s ~ 30s, but also according to liquor ratio, equipment and raw materials of different thickness to adjust. Note that, if so special white, raw materials without cooling; If the training is finished, then white, must be 2% to 3% of the HAC, 60 ?water running 5s ~ 10s, cold washed twice, and then softening. Prescription and use of the whitening process conditions: 1.6% cationic brighteners (Dilute with warm water even after accession); 3% HAC (Dilute with warm water even after accession); temperature of 95 ~ 98 ? time of 15s ~ 20s ; bath ratio 1:25 ~ 30. In the dyeing process, the basic cationic dye with the general approach, but not 1227, and NaAc. To liquor ratio 1:25 to 30, for example, dyeing conditions to control the following table. Cleaning, light to be 1 or 2 times the cold wash, cold wash in the dark to be 1 or 2 times and then wash with hot water, 70 ?10s, and finally cold wash 1 or 2 times. In the post-treatment processes, the use of softener 5% to 8%; temperature 45 ~ 50 ? time of 20s or so; bath ratio 1:20 ~ 25.

According to different requirements of customers can choose different softeners, such as the fabric soft, smooth, elastic anti-wrinkle, anti-contamination, etc. when requested, by the production units to decide. In the dehydration process, in order to reduce the discount video, dehydration, slower, time is shorter, usually 1 minute each time, while patients have to row together, try not to let cloth folded. In the drying process, the use of the cage drying temperature of 80 ? 5 ? time is 20s ~ 30s, speed too quickly, after drying grounds lit 12 to 24 hours after the stereotypes. Using rotary drying temperature of 90 ? 5 ? fast speed, the disadvantage is the easy bit like a very light, must be strictly controlled temperature.

In the setting process, the general shape of water rolling open sites, the effect is better than the cylindrical shape. Process parameters are 150 ? 5% overfeed of 10%, the line speed 15m / s, the pressure head of about 4kg. Reactive dyeing of basic aspects of pre-treatment with the former, but if the dye houses using recycled water, pH value may be unstable or reactive groups dealing with different materials, can be the first treatment bath by adding 1% of the HAC, it will give the pH value of the cloth evenly from the inside out, but also conducive to color dyes.

Proven, low temperature dyeing cotton used reactive dyes more suitable, light-colored soda instead of baking soda can be used as dyeing auxiliaries, the amount can be as long as required to achieve the color, the dark can be used for dyeing auxiliary sodium sulfate and soda ash , the amount of cotton fiber dyed with similar.

Uses of Milk or Casein Fiber:
Because of the healthy & bacteriostatic nature of milk Fiber, it is being considered as a perfect material for manufacturing of underwear. As discussed above, milk casein proteins are considered as a main ingredient of milk protein Fiber, which can lubricate the skin. The milk protein contains the natural humectant factor which can help to maintain the skin moisture, to reduce the wrinkles & to smoothen the skin - which may help to realize the people of taking milk bath.

The major usages of milk Fiber are as given below:

1. T-Shirts
2. Underwear
3. Sportswear
4. Ladies outerwear
5. Sweaters

Requirements To Become A Fashion Designer | How To Become A FashionDesigner | Instructions To Become A Fashion Designer

When a group of people follow some things. Then this will be fashion. Style is the basic element of fashion. Fashion designers create the designs for clothing and accessories in stores around the world. However, few designers become as successful as Armani, Karan or Versace. Most work for mass-market manufacturers, designing basic pieces of clothing.

There are two skills which any good fashion designer possesses: 
Sewing and drawing. Sewing is obviously of vital importance, but it helps to be able to draw/sketch your ideas on paper. These are perhaps the two most fundamental skills required in order to become a fashion designer.

You can always learn both drawing and sewing in fashion school (actually, those are typically mandatory classes), but creativity and a passion for fashion is something you must have in your blood.

But becoming a successful fashion designer requires a lot more than simply being able to sew and draw. Becoming a successful fashion designer requires determination, commitment, and equally important, a comprehensive understanding of how the fashion industry works.

Knowing the business side of the fashion industry can literally mean the difference between a highly successful and completely unknown fashion designer.

A Fashion Design Program at a reputable school can prepare you with the skills and knowledge you’ll need to break into this exciting, competitive industry. You’ll learn firsthand from professionals in the field in a structured and practical setting. You’ll learn how things are done in the industry and how to do them efficiently so you can make the most of your time. You’ll be guided through the exact steps you’ll need to take in order to start your career as a fashion designer and you’ll be well prepared and ready to face the challenges that await you.

Instructions

• Be honest with yourself about your ability to sketch and your eye for design and detail. The competition is fierce in this field, and you’ll need a strong inner drive to succeed. 
• Increase your chances for success by obtaining a two-year or four-year degree in fashion design. Ask your high school guidance counselor for a list of well-known fashion design schools. Expect to show samples of your sketches as part of your application.
• Take as many marketing and business courses as possible, in addition to design courses. Knowledge of the business end of the fashion industry is vital to your career.
• Develop a working knowledge of a variety of design-related software programs.
• Put together a portfolio of your own designs. It must show how creative you are and convince potential employers that you would be an asset to their business.
• Set up an internship as quickly as possible. You will gain valuable experience, and it might lead to your first job after graduation.
• Make as many industry connections as you can while you are in school. Include people in design-related fields, such as advertising.
• Regularly read fashion bibles such as “Women’s Wear Daily” and “Vogue” to remain current on trends and future trends.

Tips & Warnings for a Fashion Designer:

• Remember that most fashion designers are employed in New York or, to a lesser extent, Los Angeles.
• Expect to work long hours at a low salary initially, doing relatively obscure design work.
• Learn how to use a sewing machine. Your designs will be more impressive if you can show prospective employers the finished item, along with the sketch.
• The dropout rate in this field is high, because of the low pay and the poor opportunity for advancement.

Take-up Motion | Let-off Motion | Secondary Motions of Weaving LoomMechanism

Secondary Motions:

These mechanisms are next in importance to the primary mechanisms. If weaving is to be continuous, these mechanisms are essential. So they are called the ‘secondary’ mechanisms. They are:

1. Take-up motion
2. Let-off motiona. 

Take-up motion
The take-up motion withdraws the cloth from the weaving area at a constant rate so as to give the required pick-spacing (in picks/inch or picks/cm) and then winds it on to a cloth roller.

The main part of the mechanism is the take up rollers, which draws the cloth at the regular rate, and the number of picks per inch decides this rate. The take up roller is covered with emery cloth or hard rubber depending upon the type of cloth woven. The drive to the take up roller is by a train of gear wheels put into motion directly from the main shaft.

 Picture: Fabric take-up motion.

Let-off motion
The let-off motion delivers the warp to the weaving area at the required rate and at constant tension by unwinding it from the weaver’s beam. The secondary motions are carried out simultaneously. The speed of the servo motor is transmitted to warp beam gear via reduction gear, thus driving beam.

Jacquard Shedding | Jacquard Shedding Mechanism

Experiment name: Study on Jacquard shedding mechanism.

Introduction:
In weaving if we want to make any design in our fabric we have to separate the warp yarn according to our weave plan. In tappet or dobby shedding we have some limitations in shedding for a critical design. But in jacquard shedding it can be done easily. Jacquard is a shedding device placed on the top of the loom to produce large no of patterns by using a very large no of warp threads separately by means of harness cords, hooks and needles. The figuring capacity of a jacquard is 1800+. It means it can produce design with more than 1800 warp threads by controlling them individually, which is far beyond the capacity of a dobby or tappet loom.

Main parts:
1. Pattern chain.
2. Motor.
3. Pattern cylinder.
4. Needle. 
5. Knife.
6. Harness cord.
7. Neck cord. 8.Comber board.
9. Top board

10. Hook. 

11. Grid bar

12.Dead weight.

13.Spring board. 
14.Needle board. 

Shedding mechanism:
For shedding mechanism here punched card are used which is made according to design. One pattern card is used for one pick. With these pattern cards pattern chain is made which is placed on the pattern cylinder. On each pick pattern cylinder rotates 1/4th of the full rotation in clockwise direction. At the same time it oscillates to and fro forming an arc.

With every 1/4th rotation a new card comes front of the cylinder in the hook side and for the two and fro movement the needles enter inside the holes of the punch card. This selection of entrance inside the punches of the needles is actually done according to design.

If a needle enters in the hole of the card the needle remains stationary in its position. So the needle crank also remains stationary in its position. So for the upward movement of the knife the hooks also goes upward along with the warp threads to form the top line.

But if needle gets no perforation to enter, the hook is pushed to the right and as result the needle crank takes away the hook along with it. So when the corresponding knife goes upward it cannot lift the hook with it. Thus the warp ends of those hook remains fixed in its position and form the bottom line.

After certain time the knife releases two hooks which is lifted to form the top line and due to wrap tension and dead weight the heald eye comes down. Its downward movement is controlled by grid bar. Each needle has a spring push at its right and that spring pushes back the needle when the next card comes.

Conclusion:
By this experiment we learned about the jacquard shedding and how it works. It is the finest of all machines for making the designed woven fabrics that have been invented and far superior in capacity to a dobby or tappet loom.

Tappet Shedding | Tappet Shedding Mechanism | Scope of Tappet Shedding| Driving of Shedding Tappet

Experiment name: Study on Tappet shedding mechanism.

Objectives:
1. To know about the different parts formed this shedding.
2. To learn the mechanism of tappet shedding.

Scope of tappet shedding:
Tappets are generally used for heald shedding. Tappet, cam and wipers are names given indiscriminately to those irregular pieces of mechanism to which a rotary motion is given for the purpose of producing, by sliding contact, reciprocating motion in rods and levers. When the rod is to receive a series of lifts, with intervals of rest, the piece is generally called tappet.

Types of tappet:
Various kinds of shedding tappets are used in industries. 

They are of two main types:
1. Negative shedding tappet
2. Positive shedding tappet

Main parts:
1. Motor
2. Motor pulley
3. M/C pulley
4. Crank shaft
5. Crank shaft gear
6. Bottom shaft gear
7. Bottom shaft
8. Tappet
9. Connecting rod
10. Heald shaft
11. Top arm

Position of fixation of shedding tappet:
The shedding tappets are may be fixed in different parts of a loom.
Namely-

1. Under and over the centre of heald shaft.
2. Under and over one end of heald shaft.
3. Out side the loom framing.

Driving of shedding tappet:
In our loom tappet gets motion in the following way. At first machine pulley gets drive by belt from motor pulley. Then machine pulley, which is directly joined with the crank shaft, gives motion to bottom shaft. This crank shaft gives motion to bottom shaft via gearing. Two tappets are joined with the bottom shaft. So when bottom shaft moves then the tappets also rotate. When it gets contact with tradle bowl it lifts the tradle levers and the heald shafts are lifted by tradle levers via links. As this is a negative shedding tappet the heald shafts are lowered by their own weight.

Conclusion:
Tappet shedding mechanism is important for driving loom. It is also important for fabric design. By this experiment I learn this mechanism. This would be very helpful in my future life.

Study on Under Picking Mechanism

Experiment name: Study on under picking mechanism.

Introduction:
Picking is the second primary motion in weaving. The action of inserting weft yarn through the warp yarns is called picking. 

The functions of picking mechanism are:
1.To deliver the shuttle along the correct flight length.
2.To throw the shuttle at a predetermined speed.

Main parts:
1.Picking arm 

 2.Picker  
3.Picking cam  
4.Picking bowl 
5.Race board  6.Shuttle 
7.Bottom shaft
8.Treadle lever
9.Angular lever
10.Crank shaft 

Features of under picking mechanism:
1.Picker arm is placed under the race board.
2.Suitable for wider loom.
3.Under picking works less smoothly.
4.More direct action.
5.Rough in action.
6.More clean mechanism.
7.Consumes more power.
8.Used for heavy weight fabrics in silk and rayon looms.

Under picking mechanism:
In under picking mechanism a race board is situated over picking arm. Under picking is controlled by picking cam which is fixed on the bottom shaft. At first the motion comes from motor and m/c pulley.

Then the motion comes in to the bottom shaft and thus picking cam. When picking cam rotates and its nose portion comes in contact with treadle lever and pushes it then the treadle lever pushes the angular lever. The picking arm gets motion from angular lever which is connected with picking arm.

A picker is placed in the picking arm which pushes the shuttle. When shuttle gets motion by picking arm then shuttle begins to move to and fro on the race board. Thus picking is done.

A spring is situated which causes the picking arm and picker to move back after the delivery of the pick. At the two end of bottom shaft, two picking tappets are fixed. By increasing nose length picking speed may be increased.

How to increase PPM:
1.By increasing motor seed.
2.By increasing the nose shape of picking tappet.
3.By decreasing the length of picking arm.

Uses:
This mechanism is used in all non-automatic cotton looms. It is also used in jute looms.

Conclusion:
This picking mechanism is very important for loom. In the loom under picking is directly done by picker and picking arm. Again under picking is necessary for weft yarn insertion. So we should learn about this mechanism very carefully.

Dobby Shedding | Dobby Shedding Mechanism

Experiment name: Study on Dobby shedding mechanism.

Objectives:
1. To know about the different parts formed this shedding.
2. To learn the mechanism of dobby shedding.

Introduction:
Dobby is a shedding mechanism placed on the top of the loom in order to produce figured patterns by using large number of healds than the capacity of a tappet. Dobby is also known as a “witch or “wizard”.

Scope of a dobby:
The scope of dobby is limited between a tappet and a jacquard. The number of shafts that can be actuated by a dobby varies between 6 and 40. Theoretically dobby can control 48 shafts (maximum). However, practically it can control 36 shafts in case of wool and allied fibres. Again, for cotton and allied fibers, it can control maximum 24 heald shafts. In these case healds are operated by jacks and levers.

Main parts:
1.Bottom shaft 
2.L-lever  
3.Upright shaft  
4.T-lever 
5.Upper draw knife 
6.Lower draw knife  7.Upper hook
8.Lower hook
9.S-lever

10.Bulk lever

11.Thumb lever

12.Jack lever

13.Healdshaft

14.Returning spring

15.Motor

16.Crank shaft

17.Pattern cylinder

18.Pattern chain

Dobby shedding mechanism:
Here a climax dobby is described to explain the dobby shedding mechanism. Climax dobby is a double lift double jack-lever negative dobby. Here two jack levers are operated by a single bulk lever. They are joined with the bulk lever by a timber lever and a link. The double lever is fulcrum med at a point and is connected with S-lever.

The S-lever controls two hooks, one upper hook and one lower hook. The hooks are controlled by feelers. One hook is controlled by hooked feeler and other by a connecting needle. The two hooks control two knives that are joined with a T-lever.

The T-lever is fulcrum med and is controlled by an upright shaft and an L-lever. They get motion from motor and machine pulley. When the feeler comes in contact with a peg and when it is not in the contact it goes down.

Conclusion:
Dobby loom is important for its use. We can use 8-12 heald frame in tappet loom but if we want to use more heald frame for more decorative design then we should use dobby loom. This practical helps me to know about the dobby loom and its mechanism. I think this will help me in my future life.

Study on Positive Let-Off Mechanism

EXPERIMENT NAME: STUDY ON POSITIVE LET-OFF MOTION.

INTRODUCTION:
A mechanism controlling the rotation of the beam on a weaving, warp knitting or other fabric is forming machine where the beam is driven mechanically.

MAIN PARTS:
1. Warp beam 
2. Floating back rest
3. Feeler 
4. Spring
5. Warm 
6. Ratchet 7. Driving rod
8.Collar
9.Reciprocating collar

10. Warm wheel

11. Large beam wheel

12. Adjusting rod

POSITIVE LET-OFF MECHANISM:
The beam turning mechanism is shown in the figure. The beam is driven by ratchet on a short vertical shaft, which also carries the worm, which drives the worm wheel.A pinion on the same shaft as the worm wheel drives the large beam wheel, which is fixed, to one of the beam flanges.

A pawl operator turns the ratchet wheel by the driving rod, which gets motion of the sley sword. Each time the sley comes forward the oscillating collar is connected to fixed collar & there is engagements of pawl with ratchet.As the tension in the warp sheet is increased, the floating rest will move downwards and the rod carrying the fixed collar will move to the right and the rod R1 will move to move the driving rod to the left.

This will bring the fixed collar to the oscillating collar.As a result, the force of imparted oscillating collar and fixed collar is more. The pawl drives so more ratchet wheel teeth. So the beam motion is more and more warp is withdrawn to the increased tension.

CONCLUSIION:
In this mechanism, constant tension can be maintained and any variation in tension can be detected. So it is used in modern power looms.

Negative Let-Off Mechanism

Experiment Name:Study on Negative Let-Off Mechanism .

Introduction:
Let-off is to supply warp thread in the weaving zone at a predetermined rate. Negative let-off is a mechanism for controlling the rotation of the beam on a weaving, warp knitting or other fabric forming machine where the beam is pulled round by the warp against a breaking force applied to the beam.

Main parts:
1. Warp beam.
2. Beam ruffle.
3. Chain.
4. Machine frame.
5. Weight lever.
6. Pivot.
7. Fulcrum.
8. Weight.

Let-off mechanism:
The warp beam ruffle is wrapped around by chain. The one end of the chain is fixed at . i.e. at the m/c frame whereas the other end is connected to fulcrummed device to the weight lever , which is pivoted  and a dead weight  is placed which can be moved along the length of the weight lever.

In this system the tension of the warp is regulated by the friction between chain and the beam ruffle. The friction is controlled by dead weight on the weight lever and the distance of deadweight from the pivot. Heavier the dead weight and longer the distance of it from the pivot lesser the let-off.

The warp beam dia gradually decreases as weaving proceeds. So it’s necessary to increase the let-off rate. If the dead weight is kept on the same place, the let-off rate will remain unchanged. So an experienced worker is required to change the dead weight gradually with the change of the warp beam dia. As a result irregular tension occurs and the rate of yarn breakage may increase.

Conclusion:
Negative let-off mechanism is a very simple and manual mechanism. It is suitable for light and medium weight fabrics. It is mainly used in old looms and for weaving of plain cotton fabric. 

7-Wheel Take Up Mechanism | Study on Seven Wheel Take Up Mechanism(Cotton Weaving)

Experiment name: Study on seven wheel take up mechanism (Cotton Weaving).

Introduction:
Take-up is to draw a fabric to the cloth roller regularly as it is woven. Texture of a fabric largely depends upon the number of ends and picks per centimeter or inch. This motion determines the number of picks of weft per inch or centimeter and contributes to the uniform texture of the fabric. It is the work of the weaver for accurately fixing the position of the fell of the cloth before starting a loom.
Objects:

1. To know about the construction of the mechanism.
2. To know about drive of the take-up motion.

Take up motion:
The process of withdrawing fabric from weaving zone at a constant rate and then winding the woven cloth on the cloth roller with the continuous progress of weaving is called take up motion.

Types:
(1)According to drive:
(a) Positive take up.
(b)Negative take up.

(2)According to motion of the cloth/Rate of take up:
(a)Continuous
(b)Intermittent

(3)According to drive given to the cloth roller:
(a)Direct drive
(b)Indirect drive

(4)According to number of gear train:
(a)5-Wheel
(b)6-Wheel
(c)7-Wheel

(5)According to brand name:
(a)Sulzer
(b)Pickanol (c)Toyota

Main parts& Specifications:

1. Sley
2. Sleysword
3. Connecting rod
4. Monkey tail
5. Holding/Catching/Locking pawl.
6. Pulling pawl
7. Rachet Wheel(24)
8. Standard wheel(36). 9.Changewheel(1-Let)
9. Sewing wheel/Pinion(24)
10. Stud/Compound wheel(89)
11. Stud/Compound Pinion(14)
12. Take up wheel(89)
13. Take up roller(dia:15.5 inch)
14. Cloth roller

7-Wheel Take Up Mechanism

Motion Transfer:

Sley sword to connecting rod. Connecting rod to monkey tail. Monkey tail to pawl. Pawl to rochet wheel. Rochet wheel to standard wheel. Standard wheel to change wheel. Change wheel to sewing wheel. Sewing wheel to stud wheel. Stud wheel to stud pinion Stud pinion to take up wheel. Take up wheel to take up.

Working Principle:
This positive take-up mechanism consists of seven wheels. These are 

1. Rachet, 
2. Standard wheel, 
3. Change pinion, 
4. Stud pinion, 
5. Stud wheel, 
6. Swing pinion and 
7. Take-up roller wheel. 

The motion is primarily imparted from the sleysword. The sleysword is connected to the slay that gets motion from crank shaft and the crank shaft gets motion from motor by gearing. At the bottom of sleysword a connecting rod is connected which passes the motion to the monkey tail.

The monkey tail is fulcrum with two pawls: the upper is holding pawl and lower is pulling pawl. These two pawls are mounted freely to the ratchet wheel which is connected with the standard wheel by shaft. Over the standard wheel the change pinion is geared. The change pinion is connected with the stud pinion by shaft and the stud wheel is geared with the stud pinion upon it. The swing pinion is connected with the stud wheel and the cloth take-up roller wheel is geared with the swing pinion.

The cylinder upon which the woven fabric is wound, is connected with this wheel by shaft. Now when the sley moves one time after one pick insertion the connecting rod pass this motion to the monkey tail and as the pawls are fulcrum with monkey tail they get downward motion. Using this downward motion the pushing pawl pulls the rachet wheel one time and the holding pawl holds the rachet in this position. Finally the cloth roller gets the motion by gear train and thus fabric is wound on cloth roller continuously with the weaving of fabric.

Advantages of 7 take-up wheel over 5 wheel take-up mechanism:

1. It can give a larger number of picks per inch in cloth from a small stock of wheels by changing two wheels in the train,
2. It can give even a fraction of a pick per inch in cloth and
3. The number of teeth in the change wheel and the number of picks per quarter-inch has been simplified.

Remarks:
By this experiment we know about how to cloth is collected by take up mechanism. This is an interesting experiment too. We hope this will be very helpful in our practical life. 

Picking | Over Picking Mechanism | How to Increase PPM

Experiment name: Study on over picking mechanism.

Introduction:
Picking is the second primary motion in weaving. The action of inserting weft yarn through the warp yarns is called picking. 

The functions of picking mechanism are:
1.To deliver the shuttle along the correct flight length.
2.To throw the shuttle at a predetermined speed.

Main Parts: 
 

Over picking

• Picking arm
• Picking strap
• Picker
• Bottom shaft
• Picking spindle
• Shuttle
• Picking cam
• Vertical shaft
• Cone
• Bowl
• Angular
• Crank shaft

Features of Over Picking Mechanism:
1.Picking arm is over shuttle.
2.Suitable for narrow loom.
3.Higher picks per minute.
4.Less power required.
5.Works more smoothly.
6.Shortening the picking strap and changing the shape of the cam can increase picking force.

Mechanism of Over Picking:
Over picking mechanism is used on cotton and jute loom. It is robust and easy to adjust and maintain. The spindle is situated over the shuttle box and is essential to guide the shuttle along the correct path. It is normally set slightly up and slightly towards the front of the loom and its inner end.

The back end of the shuttle will thus receive a similar lift at the end of the stroke, so that its leading end will receive correct delivery down and into the shed. A flexible leather-picking strap is used to control the picker, which has tendency to stretched slowly in use, and vary with regard to its elastic property.

The cone over pick motion consists a vertical shaft placed either inside or outside the loom framing. The shaft serves as fulcrum of the picking arm, it is held against the loom frame. There is a spiral spring at the picking shaft, which causes the picking arm and picker to move back after the delivery of the pick.

At the two end of the bottom shaft, two picking cams are fixed. In revolving its nose the tappet strikes the cone shaped ant frictional roller strut, positively rotates the shaft and causes the pick to move inward with sufficient velocity to drive the shuttle across the loom. The timing of the picker begins to move can be attend by turning the picking tappet on its boss.

How to Increase PPM:
1.By increasing motor speed.
2.By setting the cone stud nearer to the picking tappet.
3.By decreasing the picking strap.
4.By altering the position of picking arm towards the centre of the loom.
5.By decreasing the length of the stroke of picking tappet.

Uses:
This is used for narrow and fast running looms, weaving light and medium weight fabrics and for many narrow and wide looms for weaving heavy fabrics.

Conclusion:
The over picking motion is negative one; the exact amount of power is required to drive a shuttle. By this experiment we learned about the over picking mechanism and how it works. This experience will help us in our future practical life.

Beat up Mechanism | Study on Beating-up Mechanism

Experiment name: Study on beating-up mechanism .

Objects:
1.To know about the construction of the mechanism.
2.To know about the drive of the beating-up mechanism.

Introduction:
The beating-up is the third primary motion of weaving. It consists in driving the last pick of weft to the fell of the cloth. This is accomplished with the help of a reed fixed in the sley. The sley is given a sudden and quick movement towards the fell of the cloth by the cranks in the crankshaft. The sleywood runs from one shuttle box to another, and when at its backward movement, the shuttle travels over its race.

Main parts:
1.Crankshaft 
2.Crank 
3.Crank arm 
4.Reed cap   
5.Reed
6.Sley race
7.Sley

8.Sleysword

Description:
The crankshaft gets drive from motor via motor pulley and m/c pulley. The crankshaft has two cranks. These cranks transform the rotary motion into swinging motion. The reed cap is connected by crank arm to crank of the crankshaft. Again the reed is connected between reed cap and sley. There is sleysword under the sley that is bolted to the rocking shaft. There is also shuttle box on the sley. Now the crank gives the swinging motion to the sley by crank arm. When the sley is moving towards the healdshaft at certain position the shuttle passes through warp shed. Again when the sley is coming towards the front rest at last position the reed pushes the last pick to the previous pick of cloth. This is the beating-up motion and the cloth increases in lengthwise in this way.

Conclusion:
To make a woven fabric interlacement of warp and weft yarns is the main condition. That’s why beating-up mechanism is a very essential motion for weaving. Proper setting and adjustment should be taken for this motion. This practical helps me to know about beating-up motion. I think this will help me in my future career. 

 

Compare Between Single Jersey Single Truck (conventional) and Single Jersey Four truck Circular Knitting m/c.

Experiment name: Study on compare between single jersey single truck (conventional) and single jersey four truck circular knitting m/c.

Object:

1. To know about the difference between single jersey single truck and single jersey four truck circular knitting m/c.
2. To know about modern development of single jersey four truck knitting m/c.
3. To know about the problematic area of single jersey single truck knitting m/c.

Introduction:
Single jersey circular knitting m/c is a common m/c in knitting industry. More than 70% of knitted fabric is produced in single jersey m/c. In conventional m/c there is only one cam truck. So we can produce only basic single jersey fabric in this m/c. But in modern m/c there is four truck in the cylinder. So we can produce maximum 4 (four) wales in a repeat. To produce more than 4 wales in a repeat we need jacquard mechanism.

Comparison between single jersey single truck (conventional) and single jersey four truck circular knitting m/c: 

Subject:	Single jersey single truck (conventional) circular knitting m/c.	Single jersey four truck circular knitting m/c.
Cam truck	1.      One truck.	1.      Four truck.
Needle	2.      Double butt needle.	2.      Single butt needle.
Butt position	3.      Same position.	3.      Different position.
Feed system	4.      Negative Feed System.	4.      Positive feed System.
Creel System	5.      Over head creel.	5.      Side creel.
Cam System	6.      Open Cam system.	6.      Close Cam system.
	7.      Open knitting m/c.	7.      Close knitting m/c.
Take down	8.      Conventional.	8.      Modern.
Needle gauge	9.      Coarser gauge.	9.      Fine gauge.
M/c diameter.	10.  This m/c is small diameter.	10.  This m/c is large diameter.
	11.  Basic single jersey fabric is produced.	11.  Basic single jersey fabric is produced.

Conclusion: 

This is very important to know about the difference between single truck and four truck m/c. This is vastly used in knitting industry. So we need knowledge about this m/c.