Textile Manufacturing Process | Process Flow Chart of TextileManufacturing

Textile Manufacturing Process:
Textile manufacturing or production is a very complex process. The range of textile manufacturing is so long. It starts from fiber to finished products.

Process Flow Chart of Textile Manufacturing

Spinning
↓
Weaving
↓
Dyeing +Printing+ Finishing
↓
Garments Manufacturing


Flow Chart of Spinning

Blowroom
↓
Carding
↓
Drawing
↓
Combing
↓
Drawing
↓
Roving Manufacturing
↓
Ring Spinning


Flow Chart of Weaving

Yarn from spinning section
↓
Doubling and Twisting
↓
Winding
↓
Creeling
↓
Warping
↓
Sizing
↓
Winding on weavers beam
↓
Weaving


Flow Chart of Dyeing

Inspection of grey cloth
↓
Stitching
↓
Cropping
↓
Brushing
↓
Singeing
↓
Desizing
↓
Scouring
↓
Bleaching
↓
Souring
↓
Washing
↓
Drying
↓
Mercerizing
↓
Dyeing
↓
Aftertreatment
↓
Finishing
↓
Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Baling

Flow Chart of Printing

Inspection of grey cloth
↓
Stitching
↓
Cropping
↓
Brushing
↓
Singeing
↓
Desizing
↓
Scouring
↓
Bleaching
↓
Souring
↓
Washing
↓
Drying
↓
Mercerizing
↓
Printing 
↓
Aftertreatment
↓
Finishing
↓
Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Baling

Flow Chart of  Garment Manufacturing

Design / Sketch

↓

Pattern Design

↓

Sample Making

↓

Production Pattern

↓

Grading

↓

Marker Making

↓

Spreading

↓

Cutting

↓

Sorting/Bundling

↓

Sewing/Assembling

↓

Inspection

↓

Pressing/ Finishing

↓

Final Inspection

↓

Packing

↓

Despatch

Introduction of Sulfur Dye | Properties, Classification, Applicationand Aftertreatment of Sulfur Dye

 Sulfur Dyes

Sulfur dyes are synthetic organic substantive dyes for cellulosics.

Chemical Structure:- 

Sulfer Dye

The exact chemical structure of sulfer dyes is not known , but these dyes contain sulfur as an integral of the chromophore as well as in the polysulphide side chains. These are produced by thionisation or sulphurisation of organic intermediates containing nitro and amino groups.

Properties of Sulfur Dyes

These are water insoluble dyes and have no affinity for the cellulosics as such, but solubilised when treated with a weak alkaline solution of sodium sulphide or any other reducing agent to form a leuco compound. These leuco compounds are water soluble and have affinity for the cellulosic materials such as cotton , viscose, jute and flex etc. These dyes are absorbed by the cellulosic material in the leuco form from aqueous solution and when oxidized by suitable oxidizing agents , got converted into insoluble parent dye , which is fast to normal color fastness parameters.

Main Properties of the Sulfur Dyes are as Follows:
1.Economical dyeing with excellent tinctorial value and good build up properties.

2.Good overall colorfastness properties such as wash fastness , light fastness , perspiration fastness etc. Moderate fastness to crocking and poor fastness to chlorines bleaching agents such as bleaching powder and sodium hypochlorite.

3.Limited shade range to produce only dull shades and there is no true red dye in the range.

4.These dyes can be applied by exhaust, semi continuous or continuous dyeing methods on garment , yarn , knits, fabric as well as loose stock etc.

5. Available in powder , granules and liquid forms.

6. Sulphur black 1 is the major black dye used world vide for dyeing of cellulosics.

7.The conventional dyeing process is not environment friendly due to pollution problems of sodium sulphide as well as sod/pot. Dichromates.

8.When dyed by using non polluting reducing and oxidizing agents the process is environment friendly.

Types of Sulfur Dyes
There are three classes of sulfur dyes, which are available commercially,

1.Conventional water insoluble dyes which have no substantivity to cellulosics.
2.Solubilised sulfur dyes , which are water soluble and non substantive to cellulosics.
3.Pre-reduced sulfur dyes, in the stabilized leuco compound form , which are substantive to cellulosics.

Application of Sulfer Dye:

Mechanism of the Sulfur Dyeing
The application of the sulfur dyes involves several steps , which are described as given below,

1.Dissolving the Dyestuff .
The dye is taken in an SS vessel ( size of the vessel should be selected as per the quantity and solubility of the dyes) and pasted well with a good alkali stable wetting agent and small quantity of soft water. A required quantity of soda ash may be added to neutralize any acid formed in the dyestuff during storage.( if the acid is not neutralized , it will react with the sodium sulphide , resulting into formation of H2S gas, which will result into incomplete and poor reduction of the dyes). It is very important that the dye dissolution must be complete otherwise particles of the undissolved dyes may deposit on the surface of the substrate resulting into patchy dyeing and poor rubbing / washing fastness.

2.Reducing the dyes to form a Leuco Compound.
Chiefly sodium sulphide is used as a reducing agent for the sulfur dyeing . The quantity of the reducing agent depends upon the shade depth and M:L of the bath. For complete reduction the required quantity of the sodium sulphide is dissolved in a separate container and solution is allowed to settle for 10-15 min. before decanting the clear solution into the dye dissolving vessel. Further boiling water is to be added to make up the required volume , then heated to boil for 10-15 minutes either by live steam or indirect heating , for complete reduction of the dyestuff.

3.Dyeing with the Reduced Ryes.
It is advantageous that the goods are scoured well before dyeing ,to have a satisfactory absorbency for better penetration. The dye bath is kept ready with small quantity of the alkali stable and aompatible wetting agent , a dye bath stabilizer , sodium sulphide and caustic soda or soda ash to maintain the alkalinity of the dye bath. The dye solution is then added through a filter cloth slowly over 15-25 minutes and then run for another 15 minutes at 40-50 oC , then temperature is raised to 60 oC and electrolyte is added in at least 3 portions. The quantity of salt added is depends upon the type of shade , depth and dyestuffs , however a maximum quantity does not exceed more than 15 gpl .The temperature is then raised to above 80 oC or even boil depending upon the dyes and kept for sufficient time to get the desired shade.

After getting the correct shade the bath is either dropped by draining the contents or by collecting it in the storage tanks for reuse after replenishing with fresh dyestuffs.

4.Washing off the Unexhausted Dyestuff.
With an objective of achieving the highest possible color fastness results such as washing , rubbing , light and perspiration , the material is washed and rinsed several time with fresh water to remove maximum possible loose residual dye as well as sodium sulphide from the material. At the end of the washing process the water should be clear , with no further leaching out color . After washing the material is given a hot wash at 70 0C .

5.Oxidation Back to the Parent Dye.
The oxidation is done to reconvert the leuco compound back to insoluble parent dye. There are number of methods available for oxidizing the leuco compound which are used either independent or in combination, such as

a. Oxidation by exposing the dyed material to atmospheric oxygen.
b. Oxidation by the dissolved oxygen in the fresh water.
c. Chemical oxidation , by employing different oxidizing chemicals, such as

I. acetic acid
II. sodium perborate in cold at neutral pH.
III. Hydrogen peroxide and acetic acid.
IV. Potassium or sodium bicarbonates and acetic acid.

6.After Tertreatment
After oxidation and hot wash , the material is neutralized with soda ash to adjust the pH and then soaping treatment is done with a neutral soap and soda ash at boil. Followed by a hot wash at 85 0C

7. Dye Fixing Treatment 

Optifix F(clariant) is a cationic dyefixing agent , which is applied in alkaline conditions ( at a pH of 10-11) , and is a suitable dyefixer for sulphur dyed material to improve the color fastness.

8.Softening:-
A suitable (compatible) softener can be applied to the dyed material as per the intended end use and dyestuff applied.

9.Final Treatment:-
To avoid the tendering of the dyed material final wash is given to maintain a slight alkaline pH by a weak base or acid neutralizing agent at the end without further washing. Following treatments are recommended,

a. Soda ash wash 2-3 gpl
b. Sodium Acetate 2-3 gpl
c. Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 5.0 gpl
d.Lime and tannic acid treatment

10.Use of Standing Bath.
Since a large quantity of the dye always present in the unexhausted form in the spent liquor , this remaining dye can be reused , after replenishing with fresh dye. This system is particularly suitable when producing repeated lots of the same shade with a single dye , such as black.

The dye liquor at the end of dyeing cycle is collected in the tanks, to replenish the bath a separately made dye solution is added and calculated quantities of sodium sulphide , soda ash as well as salt are added. The final volume is made up to the required level and reused. Usually a 50 –70% dye is replenished in case of blacks.

The spent bath use is not recommended in case of mixture shades , due to difference in the exhaustion and fixation of individual dyes.

Common Problems and Corrective Action

1. Poor Wash and Rubbing Fastness
Poor washing and rubbing fastness is generally caused by improper color dissolution ,color precipitation, poor solubility of the dyes, poor and insufficient washing after dyeing of unexhausted dyes and poor or insufficient soaping treatment. To get overall good fastness properties

a. The dye dissolution must be complete and it should be filtered before adding to the dye bath, because insoluble dye particles ,if present , will stick at the outer surface of the substrate causing unleveled dyeing and poor wash and rub fastness.

b. The color should be dissolved in sufficient quantity of water , by keeping in mind the maximum solubility of the dye.

c. The water and the salt should be free from calcium and magnesium , which, if present will make insoluble inert salts , which precipitates especially in the closed dyeing machines, in the form of sludge.

d. The washing after dyeing and soaping treatment must be efficient to clear all the unused dye as well as chemicals , before going to the next operation such as oxidation and neutralization respectively.

2. Bronziness
There are various reasons for bronziness in the sulphur dyed material such as, in sufficient quantity of sodium sulphide or reducing agent , resulting into quick oxidation of surface dyeing. The presence of excess dyestuff on the material caused by high concentration of of dye or electrolyte , delay between dropping of bath and washing , oxidation step. Following are the corrective actions for correcting and avoiding the bronziness problem,

a. Proper dissolution of the dyestuff.
b. Thorough washing and treatment with reducing agent before oxidation.
c. Use of surfactants, sequestering agents, dispersing agents , dye bath stabilizers, and anti oxidants in reducing bath.
d. Using sufficient and calculated quantity of reducing agents.
e. Using appropriate quantity of electrolyte e.g. less than 15 gpl.
f. After treatment witj 2-3 gpl TR oil+ 1-2 cc/ltr of ammonia in luke warm bath , to overcome the problem.
g. Treatment with soap solution at boiling temperature .
h. Using a blank bath of sodium sulphide .

3. Tendering
Tendering means the loss of strength or degradation of cellulosic materials upon storage. The tendering is caused by the acid formation from the free sulphur present in the dyed material by the action of moisture and air. The acid produced reacts with cellulose and degrade it , resulting in loss of strength. The tendering can be minimized by giving after treatments with acid neutralizing agents or by weak alkaline washing at the end of dyeing process.

4. Poor Color Value
Poor color value is caused by insufficient amount of reducing agent , presence of calcium salts in water and salt, over reduction of dyestuff , over oxidation etc.

5. Correction of Faulty Dyeing.

If the dyeing results are unlevel , then these can be corrected by

a. Leveling the dyed material by running in a blank bath containing excess sodium sulphide, dispersing ,sequestering agent, wetting agent at a temperature of 80-90 degress, this treatment will partially strip the color , which can be adjusted in a fresh bath. Or alternatively the partial stripping can be done by using caustic soda 5 gpl and hydros 5 gpl at a higher temperature than the dyeing temperature.

b. For poorly leveled material , the material is treated with sodium or calcium hypochlorite , in which it is treated with 2-3 gpl available chlorine at room temperature, followed by thorough wash and neutralization and antichlore treatment.

Water Quality for Sulphur Dyeing
The use of soft water with less than 50 ppm hardness is preferred which should be free from calcium salts, but in case only hard water is available , a sequestering agent based on sodium hexametaphosphate or EDTA should be used. These chemicals avoid the formation of insoluble metal-dye complexes which cause poor rubbing fastness and uneven dyeing.

Other Recommended Chemicals in Dyeing

1.Wetting agents:-
Normaly 1-2 gpl wetting agent is used for good penetration, in the dyeing bath.Wetting agents used must be compatible with the dyestuff, particularly in combination shades. The wetting agents must be low foaming and alkali stable at high temperature. Unsuitable wetting agents adversely affect the dye bath , inhibiting the dye uptake or precipitating the leuco compound of the dye.

Normally 1-2 gpl of wetting agents are used in the dyeing bath for good penetration.

2.Dispersing or dye bath conditioner:- 

These are used to impart the leveling effect as well as to keep the dye in dispersed form ,to avoid the dye aggregation and precipitaion.

Generally naphthalenesulphonic acid –formaldehyde condensate , ligninsulphonates and sulphonated oils are used in sulphur dyeing.

Dyeing with Pre-reduced Liquid Sulfur Dyes
The pre-reduced sulphur dyes are available as stabilized liquids ,which have substantivity for the cellulosic , materials .

Main properties of Pre –reduced Dyes
a. No dissolution required , therefore cleaner environment and working conditions.
b. No use of sodium sulphide , therefore lesser smell.
c. Low salt additions are required.
d. Lesser pollution loads.
e. Easier washing off of the reducing agents ,therefore easy oxidation.
f. Less staining and contaminations of the dyeing machines.
g. Good storage stability and water solubility.

These dyes are recommended for exhaust dyeing of cotton in loose fiber, yarn , fabric and continuous dyeing , such as rope dyeing.

The use of non polluting chemicals and by Reusing the spent liquor dye bath , the dyeing becomes less polluting and environmental friendly.There are two major pollutants generated in classical sulfur dyeing procedure ,

a. sodium sulfide in the reducing step
b. Potassium/ sodium dichromate in the oxidation step.

Both these chemicals are potentially hazardous for the environment , but can be replaced by environment friendly , less polluting chemicals such as,For reducing baths,

1. sodium sulfhydrate and alkali( soda or caustic)
2. sodium hydrosulphite and caustic soda.
3. sodium hydrosulphite in glucose/caustic.
4. glucose and caustic soda.
5. alkaline sodiumformaldehyde sulphoxylate.

For oxidation baths
1.Hydrogen peroxide and liquid ammonia.
2.sodium perborate .
3.sodium bromate and acetic acid.
4.alkaline solution of sodium chlorite at pH 10.
5.Air oxidation , wherever possible.

Use of Spent Dye Bath in Dyeing
A major consumption of the sulfur dyes is in the dyeing of black shades and a large amount of dye is used to produce a good black. Due high concentration of dye in the dyeing bath , al the dye is not transferred to the substrate and a large amount of dye is always remains unexhausted at the end of dyeing. Which if drained creates problem at water treatment plants and increase the cost of treatment. The unexhausted dye in these cases can be reused , after replenishing with fresh dye, when repeated lots of a particular shades has to be produced (say black).

The dye liquor at the end of dyeing cycle is collected in the tanks made for this purpose, the volume is made up for the lost liquor in dyeing ,the dye which is to be replenished is separately and added to it. Similarly the quantities of the electrolytes , and reducing agents are calculated and replenished. This bath then can be used as a fresh dye liquor.

The spent dye bath reuse is recommended for the self shades and blacks only , and not in combination shades because , where a mixture of dyes is used the exhaustion properties of the dyes is different and it is not possible to replenish the bath , for producing the exact shade.

Introduction of Textile Fiber | Classification of Textile Fiber

Fiber

Fiber or fibre is classes of materials that are continuous filaments or are in discrete elongated pieces, similar to lengths of thread.They are very important in the biology of both plants and animals, for holding tissues together. Human uses for fibers are diverse. They can be spun into filaments, string or rope, used as a component of composite materials or matted into sheets to make products such as paper or felt.Fibers are often used in the manufacture of other materials. Synthetic fibers can be produced very cheaply and in large amounts compared to natural fibers, but natural fibers enjoy some benefits, such as comfort, over their man-made counterparts.

Types of Fiber:
Generally two types of  Textile fiber.
1. Natural fiber.
2. Manmade fiber.

Natural fiber
Natural fibers include those produced by plants, animals, and geological processes. They are biodegradable over time. They can be classified according to their origin.

Man made fiber
Synthetic or man-made fibers generally come from synthetic materials such as petrochemicals. But some types of synthetic fibers are manufactured from natural cellulose; including rayon, modal, and the more recently developed Lyocell. Cellulose-based fibers are of two types, regenerated or pure cellulose such as from the cupro-ammonium process and modified or derivitized cellulose such as the cellulose acetates. 

Classification of Textile Fiber

 

Fiber

What is Textile Fiber? | Types of Textile Fiber

Fiber:
It is defined as one of the delicate, hair portions of the tissues of a plant or animal or other substances that are very small in diameter in relation to there length. A fiber is a material which is several hundred times as long as its thick.

Textile Fiber:
Textile fiber has some characteristics which differ between fiber to Textile fiber. Textile fiber can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by various methods including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, and twisting. The essential requirements for fibers to be spun into yarn include a length of at least 5 millimeters, flexibility, cohesiveness, and sufficient strength. Other important properties include elasticity, fineness, uniformity, durability, and luster.

Banana fiber is one kind of fiber but it is not a textile fiber. Because it can not fill up the above properties. So we can say that all fiber are not textile fiber.

Types of Textile Fiber:
Generally two types of fiber.
1. Natural fiber.
2. Manmade fiber.

Natural Fiber:
Natural fibers include those produced by plants, animals, and geological processes. They are biodegradable over time. They can be classified according to their origin.

A class name for various genera of fibers (including filaments) of: 

(1) animal (i.e., silk fiber and wool fiber); 

(2) mineral (i.e., asbestos fiber); or

(3) vegetable origin (i.e., cotton fiber, flax fiber, jute fiber, and ramie fiber).

Manmade Fiber:
It is also known as Manufactured fiber. Synthetic or man-made fibers generally come from synthetic materials such as petrochemicals. But some types of synthetic fibers are manufactured from natural cellulose; including rayon, modal, and the more recently developed Lyocell. A class name for various genera of fibers (including filaments) produced from fiber-forming substances which may be: 

(1) Polymers synthesized from chemical compounds, e.g., acrylic fiber, nylon fiber, polyester fiber, polyethylene fiber, polyurethane fiber, and polyvinyl fibers; 

(2) Modified or transformed natural polymers, e.g., alginic and cellulose-based fibers such as acetates fiber and rayons fiber; and 

(3) Minerals, e.g., glasses. The term manufactured usually refers to all chemically produced fibers to distinguish them from the truly natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, flax, etc.e.g: Glass fiber.

What is Textile? | Basic Textiles | Flow Chart of Textile Processing |Uses of Textiles

What is Textile?

The word ”textile” originally applied only to woven fabrics, now generally applied to fibers, yarns, or fabrics or products made offers, yarns or fabrics. The term textile originates from the latin verb texere to weave but, as the Textile Institute’s Terms and Definitions Glossary explains, it is now ”a general term applied to any manufacture from fibers, filaments or yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of Length to thickness”

Textiles, especially fabrics the fundamental component of a ready made garment, because it is the basic raw material of a garment. So it is important to know the manufacturing sequence of fabric from fiber. The quality product is the main goal at present time, Without knowledge of Textile manufacturing i.e. fiber, yarn and fabrics it is impossible to maintain the quality of a garment. Before elaborating on whole process of grey fabric manufacturing Let us look on what is textile fiber, yarn and fabric and what are the process flow chart of Textile Manufacturing can be described.

Normally, textile is a woven fabric; now applied generally to any one of the following:

1.Staple fibers and filaments suitable for conversion to or use as yarns, or for the preparation of woven, knit, or nonwoven fabrics.
2. Yarns made from natural or manufactured fibers.
3. Fabrics and other manufactured products made from fibers as defined above and from yarns.
4. Garments and other articles fabricated from fibers, yarns, or fabrics when the products retain the characteristic flexibility and drape of the original fabrics.

Textile is a very widly used term which includes:
1. All kinds of fibers(e.g: Cotton, Jute, Wool, Polyester, Viscose etc) 

2. All kinds of Process(e.g: Spinning, Weaving, Knitting, Dyeing, Printing, Finishing etc.) 

3. All kinds of machineries(e.g: Spinning machineries, Weaving machineries, Knitting machineries, Dyeing machineries, Testing machineries etc.) 

4. To convert textile fiber into finished or end use products(e.g: Garments, Technical textiles, Geo textiles, Medical textiles, E-textiles etc.) 

Flow Chart of Textile Processing: 

Input/Raw Materials →→ Processing Steps → →→→→→ Output

Textile Fibers →→→→→→ Yarn Manufacturing  →→→→→→→→→→→ Yarn
(Spinning Mill)
↓

↓
Yarn→→→→→→→ Fabric Manufacturing→→→→→Grey Fabrics  

(Weaving/Knitting Industry) 
↓
↓
Grey Fabrics→→→→→→Wet Processing →→→→→Finished Fabrics
(Dyeing, Printing & Finishing Industry)
↓
↓ 
Finished Fabrics→→→→ →Garment Manufacturing→→→→→ Garments
(Garment Industry) 

Crighton Opener Machine/Verticle Opener Machine/Twine Opener Machine |Main Parts of Crighton Opener M/C

Crighton Opener

Crighton opener

Crighton opener machine is used to open cotton tuft in blowroom line. It is also called Verticle Opener Machine or Twine Opener Machine

Object Crighton Opener:
i. To strike the cotton while it is being carried by the air current.
ii. To open the cotton in to small fault.
iii. To use low quality cotton (i.e. cotton of short staple & more impurities).



Main Parts of Crighton Opener M/C :
i. Motor.
ii. Motor pulley
iii. Discs with strikes.
iv. Inclines Grid bar.

Adjustment of Different Parts :

1. Grid bar to grid bar :
Wider setting: High fiber loss, poor opening & cleaning, high speed, high productions.
Closer setting: Good opening, low speed gives lower fiber loss & low production.

2. Blade to grid bar :
Wider Setting: No fiber damage, high production, poor opening & cleaning.
Closer setting: Fiber damage, low production, lower removal of impurities, good opening.

Specification Crighton Opener M/C  :

i. Motor r.p.m = 1440
ii. Motor pulley dia = 14“
iii. M/C pulley dia = 32“
iv. No. of striker = 6

Calculation :
Beater r.p.m = 1440*(14“/32“) = 630
Beats per min = 630*6 = 3780

Conclusion :
This is the third m/c of the blowroom line. It stands on a vertical shaft & hence it is called vertical opener. This m/c is a major cleaning point of blow room line. There is a by pass system. So from step cleaner cotton can be difficulty pass to the hopper feeder without vertical opener. It can be used in case of low grade cotton. For beater opening & cleaning close setting of striker is done. But there is a rise of more fiber damage. Hence moderate setting is done.

Textile Testing | Objects of Textile Testing | Different Types ofTextile Testing | Fiber Test/Yarn Test/Fabric Test

Testing:

The process to determine the properties of different kinds of substance is called testing.

Types of Testing:
1. Routine process testing
2. Quality record testing

Objects of Testing:
1. Research
2. Selection of raw material
3. Process control
4. Product control
5. Process development
6. Product development
7. Specification test

The necessary Test of different Textiles:

Fiber Test:
1. Identification of fiber
2. Grading
3. Fiber length
4. Strength and elongation ;tensile properties
5. Fineness or linear density test
6. Maturity test
7. Trash, neps test etc.

Yarn Test:
1. Yarn count or linear density
2. Twist per unit length
3. Strength and elongation i.e. tensile properties
4. Appearance
5. Evenness and regularity
6. Hairiness

Fabric Test:
1. Strength and elongation test i.e. tensile properties
2. Width
3. Thickness
4. Number of ends and picks per unit length
5. The count of yarn used
6. Fabric weight per unit length
7. Design and construction of the cloth
8. Air permeability
9. Thermal properties
10. Stiffness, handle, drape
11. Crease resistance and recovery
12. Abrasion
13. Pilling
14. Shrinkage
15. Water absorbency or resistance etc. 

Analysis of Plain Woven Fabric Structure

Experiment name: Analysis of woven fabric(Plain).

Object:
1. To know the fabric specification.
2. To know the raw material of fabric.
3. To produce exactly the similar fabric.

Sample: 

A piece of plain woven fabric.

Apparatus:
1. Counting glass,
2. Needle,
3. Beesleys balance,
4. Twist tester,
5. GSM cutter,
6. Graph paper.

Analysis of Plain Woven Fabric:
1. Weave plan: In graph paper the gaps between the lines are considered according to X axis as weft threads and according to Y axis as warp threads. Now indicating the up threads by filling gaps and down threads without filling gaps the weave plan is drawn. 

2. Drafting plan: According to British system drafting plan is drawn at the top of weave plan. Here two heald shafts are used to draw the drafting plan. 

3. Lifting plan: The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan. 

4. Face side and Back side: As the cloth is constructed with plain fabric construction, face and back side is not same. Face side appearance is smooth and glassy than back side appearance. 

5. Direction of warp and weft: Direction of both warp and weft are indicated by arrow marks as shown in the sample. Selvedge direction is always warp direction and warp direction is more straight and parallel than weft direction. No. of yarn in warp is more than weft. 

6. Raw material: Both weft warp yarns are cotton. 

7. Thread density: No. of ends per inch or EPI =93, No. of picks per inch or PPI = 71. 

8. Yarn count 

a.Warp yarn count

No.	Count  xi, Ne	x = ∑ xi           n	׀ xi –x |	׀ xi – x  |2	∑ ׀xi –x  |2        n	S.D.=√(∑ ׀xi –  x|2)                n	C.V.= (S.D./x)x100
1.	55		3	9
2.	52		0	0
3.	50	52	-2	4	2.8	1.63	3.2
4.	51		-1	1
5.	52		0	0

b.Weft yarn count 

No.	Count  xi, Ne	x = ∑ xi           n	׀ xi - x|	׀ xi - x|2	∑ ׀xi – x|2        n	S.D.=√(∑ ׀xi –                   x|2)/n	C.V.= (S.D./x)x100
1.	37		0	0
2.	38		1	1
3.	35	37	-2	4	1.2	1.095	2.96
4.	37		0	0
5.	38		1	1

  

Count of warp yarn is 28 and weft yarn is 30.

9. Yarn twist:

a.Warp yarn twist

No.	Twist  xi, TPI	x = ∑ xi           n	׀ xi - x|	׀ xi - x|2	∑ ׀xi – x|2        n	S.D.=√(∑ ׀xi –                   x|2)/n	C.V.= (S.D./x)x100
1.	47		-1	1
2.	48		0	0
3.	48	48	0	0	1.2	1.095	2.28
4.	46		-2	4
5.	47		-1	1

b.Weft yarn twist

No.	Count  xi, TPI	x = ∑ xi           n	׀ xi - x|	׀ xi - x|2	∑ ׀xi – x|2        n	S.D.=√(∑ ׀xi –                                         x|2)/n	C.V.= (S.D./x)x100
1.	37		0	0
2.	36		-1	1
3.	35	37	-2	4	1.8	1.34	3.62
4.	37		0	0
5.	35		-2	4

Twist of warp yarn is 48 and weft yarn is 37.

10. Twist direction: Both warp and weft yarns are twisted in ‘Z’ direction. 

11. Design of fabric: The fabric is designed as one up and one down i.e. if all even numbered warp ends are raised at one pick then all odd numbered ones are raised at other picks.

12. GSM calculation: We take one square inch fabric sample and find its weight 0.07 gm.

We know 1 inch = 2.54 cm i.e. 0.0254 m. So, 1 sq. inch = (0.0254X0.0254) sq. m.
Now, (0.0254X0.0254) sq. m sample wt. = 0.05gm
1 sq. m sample wt. = 77.5 gm

Therefore GSM of fabric is 77.5gms/sq. inch

13. Repeat size: 2x2. The repeat contains 2 ends and 2 picks.

14. Type of loom: Tappet loom is used to produce this plain woven fabric.

15. End use: Different types of apparel such as shirt, lungi, shari; bed sheet, bedcover, pillow cover, and many other uses.

Conclusion: 

Analysis of fabric structure is very important to know about the fabric which is needed to reproduce or to change structure or design of fabric. By this practical I gathered the knowledge how to analyses primarily a simple plain structure of woven fabric which will be very helpful in future.