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    Wednesday, 29 February 2012

    Latch Needle:
    The needle which have a right hook and a latch easily around the axis is called latch needle.Pierre Jeandeau patented the first latch needle (also known as the tumbler needle) in 1806 but there is no evidence of its practical use.There is also no evidence that the pivoting of a broken pocket knife blade led to the development of the latch spoon.The latch needle was a more expensive and intricate needle to manufacture than the bearded needle. It was more prone to making needle lines as it slides in its trick, particularly if the latch was damaged or there was dirt in the trick. Latch needle action is comparatively easy.
    Advantages of Latch Needle:
    The latch needle has the major advantage of being self-acting or loop-controlled, so that individual movement and control of the needle enables stitch selection to be achieved. It is ideally suited for use with computer-controlled electronic selection devices. For that reason, it is the most widely used needle in weft knitting and is sometimes termed the ‘automatic’ needle (provided there are loops on the needle).

    The old loop is cleared from the hook automatically when the needle is lifted because the loop slides down inside the hook and contacts the latch or tumbler, causing it to pivot open allowing the loop to slide off the latch down onto the stem.


    The hook is closed automatically after yarn feeding by lowering the needle because the old loop, which was on the stem, slides upwards contacting and pivoting the latch tightly closed and drawing and enclosing the newly fed loop inside the hook.


    Latch needles thus knit automatically as they are reciprocated and draw the length of the new loop as they descend to knock-over. Except in raschel warp knitting machines, they are arranged to move independently in their tricks or grooves.

    They can operate at any angle but often require a latch-guard or latch-opening facilities as there is a tendency for latches to spring closed as tightly-knitted loops are cleared from the open latches.


    Individually moving latch needles can draw and form their own needle loops in succession across the needle bed, unlike bearded needles and needles in warp knitting machines which move as a unit and thus require sinkers or guides to form the loops around their stems. The Germans classify the first method as ‘Strickerei’ or loop drawing and the second method as ‘Wirkerei’ or loop forming.

    Variation of the height of vertical reciprocation of a latch needle at a feeder can produce either missing, tucking or knitting, and depth of descent normally determines loop length. Specially designed latch needles are capable of facilitating rib loop transference by selective lifting to a height above clearing height. Doubleended purl needles can slide through the old loops in order to knit from an opposing bed and thus draw a loop from the opposite direction to the previously knitted loop.

    Introduction of Latch Needle | Advantages of Latch Needle

    Posted at  02:56  |  in  regular  |  Continue lendo ...»

    Latch Needle:
    The needle which have a right hook and a latch easily around the axis is called latch needle.Pierre Jeandeau patented the first latch needle (also known as the tumbler needle) in 1806 but there is no evidence of its practical use.There is also no evidence that the pivoting of a broken pocket knife blade led to the development of the latch spoon.The latch needle was a more expensive and intricate needle to manufacture than the bearded needle. It was more prone to making needle lines as it slides in its trick, particularly if the latch was damaged or there was dirt in the trick. Latch needle action is comparatively easy.
    Advantages of Latch Needle:
    The latch needle has the major advantage of being self-acting or loop-controlled, so that individual movement and control of the needle enables stitch selection to be achieved. It is ideally suited for use with computer-controlled electronic selection devices. For that reason, it is the most widely used needle in weft knitting and is sometimes termed the ‘automatic’ needle (provided there are loops on the needle).

    The old loop is cleared from the hook automatically when the needle is lifted because the loop slides down inside the hook and contacts the latch or tumbler, causing it to pivot open allowing the loop to slide off the latch down onto the stem.


    The hook is closed automatically after yarn feeding by lowering the needle because the old loop, which was on the stem, slides upwards contacting and pivoting the latch tightly closed and drawing and enclosing the newly fed loop inside the hook.


    Latch needles thus knit automatically as they are reciprocated and draw the length of the new loop as they descend to knock-over. Except in raschel warp knitting machines, they are arranged to move independently in their tricks or grooves.

    They can operate at any angle but often require a latch-guard or latch-opening facilities as there is a tendency for latches to spring closed as tightly-knitted loops are cleared from the open latches.


    Individually moving latch needles can draw and form their own needle loops in succession across the needle bed, unlike bearded needles and needles in warp knitting machines which move as a unit and thus require sinkers or guides to form the loops around their stems. The Germans classify the first method as ‘Strickerei’ or loop drawing and the second method as ‘Wirkerei’ or loop forming.

    Variation of the height of vertical reciprocation of a latch needle at a feeder can produce either missing, tucking or knitting, and depth of descent normally determines loop length. Specially designed latch needles are capable of facilitating rib loop transference by selective lifting to a height above clearing height. Doubleended purl needles can slide through the old loops in order to knit from an opposing bed and thus draw a loop from the opposite direction to the previously knitted loop.

    Tuesday, 28 February 2012

    Basic Dye
    Basic dyes, these dyes are also known as cationic dyes.This a class of synthetic dyes , that act as bases and when made soluble in water , they form a colored cationic salt , which can react with the anionic sites on the surface of the substrate. The basic dyes produce bright shades with high tinctorial values, on textile materials.

    Properties of Basic Dyes
    Basic Dyes are cationic soluble salts of coloured bases. Basic dyes are applied to substrate with anionic character where electrostatic attractions are formed. Basic dyes are not used on cotton as the structures are neither planar nor large enough for sufficient substantivity or affinity. Basic dyes are called cationic dyes because the chromophore in basic dye molecules contains a positive charge. The basic dyes react on the basic side of the isoelectric points. Basic dyes are salts, usually chlorides, in which the dyestuff is the basic or positive radical. Basic dyes are powerful colouring agents.It’s applied to wool, silk, cotton and modified acrylic fibres. Usually acetic acid is added to the dyebath to help the take up of the dye onto the fibre. Basic dyes are also used in the coloration of paper.

    Ionic nature:-The ionic nature of these dyes is cationic.

    Shade range:-These dyes exhibit an unlimited shade range with high tinctorial strength, brightness and many colors are having fluorescent properties.

    Solubility:-The solubility of these dyes is very good in water ,in the presence of glacial acetic acid.

    Leveling properties:- These dyes have a very high strike rate , therefore leveling is poor.

    Exhaustion :- cationic dyes exhaust at a variable rates, K values are used to define the exhaustion characteristics of the cationic dyes. K=1 means the fastest exhaustion , while K=5 means the slowest exhaustion. So while making the combination shades the dyes of similar K values must be used.

    Affinity:- These dyes shows a very affinity towards wool , silk and cationic dye able acrylic, but have no affinity towards cellulosics. To dye cellulosics with basic dyes the material must be treated with suitable mordanting agents.

    Fastness Properties:-
    The light fastness is poor to moderate , but wet fastness is good.

    Dyeing of Acrylic with Basic Dyes
    The most common anionic group attached to acrylic polymers is the sulphonate group, -SO3-, closely followed by the carboxylate group, -CO2-. These are either introduced as a result of co-polymerisation, or as the residues of anionic polymerisation inhibitors. It is this anionic property which makes acrylics suitable for dyeing with cationic dyes, since there will be a strong ionic interaction between dye and polymer (in effect, the opposite of the acid dye-protein fibre interaction).

    Advantages of Basic Dyes
    •High Tinctorial strength
    •Moderate substantivity
    •Relatively economical
    •Wide shade range
    •Includes some of the most brilliant synthetic dyes
    •Shows good brightness

    Limitations of Basic Dyes
    *Poor shade stability
    *High acid content
    *Coloured backwaters
    *Very poor lightfastness
    *Preferential dyeing

    Modified Basic Dyes
    These dyes, generally based on the chemistry of basic dyes, have longer molecular structures than traditional basic dyes, and thus have significantly improved properties.

    Though still cationic in nature, modified basic dyes exhibit improved fibre coverage and substantivity on many furnishes,making them ideal for dyeing applications. Lightfastness is also improved considerably over traditional basic dye.

    Key advantages over conventional basic dyes:-
    •Excellent substantivity
    •Better Lightfastness
    •Covers all fibres
    •Clear backwaters

    Basic Dye/Cationic Dyes | Properties of Basic Dyes | Dyeing of Acrylicwith Basic Dyes

    Posted at  03:14  |  in  regular  |  Continue lendo ...»

    Basic Dye
    Basic dyes, these dyes are also known as cationic dyes.This a class of synthetic dyes , that act as bases and when made soluble in water , they form a colored cationic salt , which can react with the anionic sites on the surface of the substrate. The basic dyes produce bright shades with high tinctorial values, on textile materials.

    Properties of Basic Dyes
    Basic Dyes are cationic soluble salts of coloured bases. Basic dyes are applied to substrate with anionic character where electrostatic attractions are formed. Basic dyes are not used on cotton as the structures are neither planar nor large enough for sufficient substantivity or affinity. Basic dyes are called cationic dyes because the chromophore in basic dye molecules contains a positive charge. The basic dyes react on the basic side of the isoelectric points. Basic dyes are salts, usually chlorides, in which the dyestuff is the basic or positive radical. Basic dyes are powerful colouring agents.It’s applied to wool, silk, cotton and modified acrylic fibres. Usually acetic acid is added to the dyebath to help the take up of the dye onto the fibre. Basic dyes are also used in the coloration of paper.

    Ionic nature:-The ionic nature of these dyes is cationic.

    Shade range:-These dyes exhibit an unlimited shade range with high tinctorial strength, brightness and many colors are having fluorescent properties.

    Solubility:-The solubility of these dyes is very good in water ,in the presence of glacial acetic acid.

    Leveling properties:- These dyes have a very high strike rate , therefore leveling is poor.

    Exhaustion :- cationic dyes exhaust at a variable rates, K values are used to define the exhaustion characteristics of the cationic dyes. K=1 means the fastest exhaustion , while K=5 means the slowest exhaustion. So while making the combination shades the dyes of similar K values must be used.

    Affinity:- These dyes shows a very affinity towards wool , silk and cationic dye able acrylic, but have no affinity towards cellulosics. To dye cellulosics with basic dyes the material must be treated with suitable mordanting agents.

    Fastness Properties:-
    The light fastness is poor to moderate , but wet fastness is good.

    Dyeing of Acrylic with Basic Dyes
    The most common anionic group attached to acrylic polymers is the sulphonate group, -SO3-, closely followed by the carboxylate group, -CO2-. These are either introduced as a result of co-polymerisation, or as the residues of anionic polymerisation inhibitors. It is this anionic property which makes acrylics suitable for dyeing with cationic dyes, since there will be a strong ionic interaction between dye and polymer (in effect, the opposite of the acid dye-protein fibre interaction).

    Advantages of Basic Dyes
    •High Tinctorial strength
    •Moderate substantivity
    •Relatively economical
    •Wide shade range
    •Includes some of the most brilliant synthetic dyes
    •Shows good brightness

    Limitations of Basic Dyes
    *Poor shade stability
    *High acid content
    *Coloured backwaters
    *Very poor lightfastness
    *Preferential dyeing

    Modified Basic Dyes
    These dyes, generally based on the chemistry of basic dyes, have longer molecular structures than traditional basic dyes, and thus have significantly improved properties.

    Though still cationic in nature, modified basic dyes exhibit improved fibre coverage and substantivity on many furnishes,making them ideal for dyeing applications. Lightfastness is also improved considerably over traditional basic dye.

    Key advantages over conventional basic dyes:-
    •Excellent substantivity
    •Better Lightfastness
    •Covers all fibres
    •Clear backwaters

    Serviceability
    Serviceability is a relative term which is serviceable of performing useful service.A garment is considered to be serviceable when it is fit for its particular end use. After being used for a certain length of time the garment ceases to be serviceable when it can no longer fill its intended purpose in the way that it did when it was new. The particular factors that reduce the service life of a garment are heavily dependent on its end use. For instance overalls worn to protect clothing at work would be required to withstand a good deal of hard usage during their lifetime but their appearance would not be considered important. However, garments worn purely for their fashionable appearance are not required to be hard wearing but would be speedily discarded if their appearance changed noticeably. An exception to this generalisation is found in the case of denim where a worn appearance is deliberately strived for.
    Factors of Serviceability:
    If asked, many people would equate the ability of a fabric to ‘wear well’ with its abrasion resistance, but ‘wear’, that is the reduction in serviceable life, is a complex phenomenon and can be brought about by any of the following factors:

    1. Changes in fashion which mean that the garment is no longer worn whatever its physical state.
    2. Shrinkage or other dimensional changes of such a magnitude that the garment will no longer fit.
    3. Changes in the surface appearance of the fabric which include: the formation of shiny areas by rubbing, the formation of pills or surface fuzz, the pulling out of threads in the form of snags.
    4. Fading of the colour of the garment through washing or exposure to light. The bleeding of the colour from one area to another.
    5. Failure of the seams of the garment by breaking of the sewing thread or by seam slippage.
    6. Wearing of the fabric into holes or wearing away of the surface finish or pile to leave the fabric threadbare. Wearing of the edges of cuffs, collars and other folded edges to give a frayed appearance.
    7. Tearing of the fabric through being snagged by a sharp object.


    What is Serviceability? | Factors of Serviceability

    Posted at  01:31  |  in  TTQC  |  Continue lendo ...»

    Serviceability
    Serviceability is a relative term which is serviceable of performing useful service.A garment is considered to be serviceable when it is fit for its particular end use. After being used for a certain length of time the garment ceases to be serviceable when it can no longer fill its intended purpose in the way that it did when it was new. The particular factors that reduce the service life of a garment are heavily dependent on its end use. For instance overalls worn to protect clothing at work would be required to withstand a good deal of hard usage during their lifetime but their appearance would not be considered important. However, garments worn purely for their fashionable appearance are not required to be hard wearing but would be speedily discarded if their appearance changed noticeably. An exception to this generalisation is found in the case of denim where a worn appearance is deliberately strived for.
    Factors of Serviceability:
    If asked, many people would equate the ability of a fabric to ‘wear well’ with its abrasion resistance, but ‘wear’, that is the reduction in serviceable life, is a complex phenomenon and can be brought about by any of the following factors:

    1. Changes in fashion which mean that the garment is no longer worn whatever its physical state.
    2. Shrinkage or other dimensional changes of such a magnitude that the garment will no longer fit.
    3. Changes in the surface appearance of the fabric which include: the formation of shiny areas by rubbing, the formation of pills or surface fuzz, the pulling out of threads in the form of snags.
    4. Fading of the colour of the garment through washing or exposure to light. The bleeding of the colour from one area to another.
    5. Failure of the seams of the garment by breaking of the sewing thread or by seam slippage.
    6. Wearing of the fabric into holes or wearing away of the surface finish or pile to leave the fabric threadbare. Wearing of the edges of cuffs, collars and other folded edges to give a frayed appearance.
    7. Tearing of the fabric through being snagged by a sharp object.


    Monday, 27 February 2012

    Garment Dyeing
    Garment dyeing is the process of dyeing fully fashioned garments (such as pants, pullovers, t-shirts, jeans, sweaters, dresses, bathrobes, casual jackets, shirts, skirts, hosieries) subsequent to manufacturing, as opposed to the conventional method of manufacturing garments from pre-dyed fabrics. Most garments are made of cotton knit goods and/or cotton woven fabrics.

    Although several other fabrics can be found in the whole or in part such as wool, nylon, silk, acrylic, polyester and others. Due to cost savings and fashion trends, garment dyeing has been gaining importance and popularity in the past years and will continue to do so in the future.

    Why Garment Dyeing?
    Traditionally, garments are constructed from fabrics that are pre-dyed (piece dyed) before the actual cutting and sewing. The advantage of this process is the cost effectiveness of mass producing identical garments of particular colors. A major drawback with this approach is the risk associated with carrying a large inventory of a particular style or color in today’s dynamic market.

    Garment Dyeing Machines
    Paddle machines and rotary drums are the two types of equipment regularly used for garment dyeing. Rotary drum machines are sometimes preferred for garments, which require gentler handling, such as sweaters. A high liquor ratio is required for paddle machines, which is less economical and may limit shade reproducibility. Many machinery companies have developed sophisticated rotary dyeing machines, which incorporate state-of-the-art technology. Following machines are generally used for garment dyeing

    Garment Dyeing Machines
    1.Paddle Dyeing Machines
    A process of dyeing textiles in a machine that gently move the goods using paddles similar to a paddle wheel on a boat. This is a slow process, but there is extremely little abrasion on the goods. Horizontal Paddle Machines (over head paddle machine) consist of a curved beck like lower suction to contain the materials and the dye liquor. The goods are moved by a rotating paddle, which extends across the width of the machine. Half immersed paddles cause the material to move upwards and downwards through out the liquor. The temperature can be raised to 98o C in such system.

    In lateral / oval paddle machines consist of oval tank to enhance the fluid flow and the processing the goods. In the middle of this tank is a closed oval island. The paddle moves in a lateral direction and is not half submerged in the liquor and the temperature can be increased up to 98o C.

    HT Paddle Machines work according to the principle of horizontal paddle machine, however, the temperature can be raised up to 140o C. PES articles are preferably dyed on HT paddles. In paddle machines, the dyeing can be carried out with 30:1 to 40:1, lower ratios reduces optimum movement of the goods, lead to unlevel dyeing, crease formation. For gentleness, the blades of the paddle are either curved or have rounded edges and the rotating speed of the paddle can be regulated from 1.5 to 40 rpm. Circulation of the liquor should be strong enough to prevent goods from sinking to the bottom. Paddle machines are suitable for dyeing articles of all substrates in all forms of make ups. The goods are normally dyed using PP/PET bags.

    2.Rotary Drum Dyeing Machines
    These machines work on the principle of “movement of textile material and a stationary liquor”.The rotary drum dyeing machine consists of rotating perforated cylindrical drum , which rotates slowly inside a vessel of slightly bigger in size. The internal drum is divided into compartments to ensure rotation of goods with the drum rotation, and the outer vessel holds the required quantity of dye liquor. High temperature drum machines are capable of processing the garments up to 140o C.

    Features of modern rotary-dyeing equipment include the following:
    1. lower liquor ratio
    2. gentle movement of goods and liquor (minimizes surface abrasion)
    3. rapid heating and cooling
    4. centrifugal extraction
    5. variable drum speed with reversal capability (adaptable to a wide variety of goods)
    6. continuous circulation of goods (improves migration control)
    7. easy of sampling
    8. variable water levels with overflow rinsing capabilities
    9. large diameter feed and discharge lines (minimizes filling and draining time)
    10. microprocessor controls
    11. lint filters
    12. pressure dyeing
    13. auto-balancing drums

    One feature that can be used to reduce abrasion on delicate garments or to minimize tangling is a compartmental chamber, sometimes referred to as a “Y” pocke
    .The rotary drum machines are very simple to operate and are quite compact in size. The cost of unit is also not high .

    Drum dyeing-centrifuging machines are also called “multipurpose drum machines” or “multi-rapid dyeing centrifuging machines” since these machines can perform scouring, dyeing, centrifuging and conditioning successively with automated controls. The goods are treated in a perforated inner drum housed within an outer drum (dyeing tank). Inner drums without dividing walls are provided with ribs that carry the goods along for a certain time, partially lifting them up out of the liquor. These machines can operate at very low liquor ratios and can dye the goods up to 98 -140o C. This is suitable for knits as well as other garments. Liquor circulation can be intensified using additional jets. Drums can be rotated in both the directions.

    3. Tumbler Dyeing Machines
    These machines are being used for small garments either in loose form or in open mesh bags. Design wise the tumbler dyeing machines are similar to the commercial laundering machines.

    The principle of operation is to load the material into perforated inner SS tanks , which rotates round a horizontal shaft fixed at the back of the drum. The drum is divided into compartments for moving the goods with rotation of drum. A variety of tumbling machines have higher rotation speeds and can spin dry at the end of the cycle. These are similar to dry-cleaning machines.

    Rotating drum machines are more efficient and cleaner to operate than paddle machines. The more vigorous mechanical action often promotes more shrinkage and bulking, which may be desirable for some articles. In order to handle higher quantities and large production of similar pieces the latest machines are provided with several automatic features and sophistication.

    4.Toroid Dyeing Machines

    Toroid Dyeing Machines
    In these machines the garments circulate in the liquor in a toroidal path with the aid of an impeller situated below the perforated false bottom of the vessel. Movement of the goods depends completely on the pumped action of the liquor. High-temperature versions of this machine operating at 120 to 130°C were developed in the 1970s for dyeing fully-fashioned polyester or triacetate garments. The liquor ratio of such machines is about 30:1.

    5.The Gyrobox
    The machine has support in the form of a large wheel, which is divided into 12 independent non radial compartments. The goods are placed in these compartments .The wheel runs at a moderate speed of 2-6 rpm.The main advantage of this machine are,

    1.Reduced M:L
    2.Different types of garments can be dyed simulteneously .
    3.Flexible loading
    4.Fully automatic operation.
    6.The MCS Readymade garment dyeing machine

    The rotodye machines are suitable for dyeing pure cotton,wool,polyester,cotton blends in the form of T shirts, sweaters, bath rugs and accessories , socks and stockings.

    6.Modified Pegg Toroid Whiteley Garment Dyeing Machine
    This is an improved version of Toroid machines , the additional features are

    1.The machine is suitable for both atmospheric and pressure dyeing.
    2.Full automation upto hydroextraction.
    3.The design features,speed and performance is simplified to make the machine more versatile and free from operating problems.

    Advantages of Garment Dyeing

    1. Handling of smaller lots economically
    2. Enables various special effects to achieved
    3. Distressed look can be effectively imparted
    4. Unsold light shades can be converted into medium and deep shades
    By the time the garment has been in a boiling dyebath and then tumble-dried, it will have adopted its lowest energy state and will not suffer further shrinkage under consumer washing conditions

    Latest fashion trends can be effectively incorporated through garment wet processing by immediate feedback from the customer

    Disadvantages of Garment Dyeing

    1. High cost of processing
    2. A little complicated dyeing
    Garment accessories like zips, buttons, etc impose restrictions. The garments produced from woven fabrics create many problems and it has been found that the existing textile treatment styles as developed for piece dyed fabric cannot be just assembled for garment wet processing operation such as garment dyeing, unless they have been engineered from the original design stage for garment dyeing.

    The factors governing processing of ready-made garments are
    • Sewing Thread
    • Metal Components. Shrink behavior
    • Accessories
    • Foreign substances
    • Interlining
    • Care labeling.

    Garment Dyeing | How to Garment Dyeing? | Why Garment Dyeing? | GarmentDyeing Machines

    Posted at  15:44  |  in  regular  |  Continue lendo ...»

    Garment Dyeing
    Garment dyeing is the process of dyeing fully fashioned garments (such as pants, pullovers, t-shirts, jeans, sweaters, dresses, bathrobes, casual jackets, shirts, skirts, hosieries) subsequent to manufacturing, as opposed to the conventional method of manufacturing garments from pre-dyed fabrics. Most garments are made of cotton knit goods and/or cotton woven fabrics.

    Although several other fabrics can be found in the whole or in part such as wool, nylon, silk, acrylic, polyester and others. Due to cost savings and fashion trends, garment dyeing has been gaining importance and popularity in the past years and will continue to do so in the future.

    Why Garment Dyeing?
    Traditionally, garments are constructed from fabrics that are pre-dyed (piece dyed) before the actual cutting and sewing. The advantage of this process is the cost effectiveness of mass producing identical garments of particular colors. A major drawback with this approach is the risk associated with carrying a large inventory of a particular style or color in today’s dynamic market.

    Garment Dyeing Machines
    Paddle machines and rotary drums are the two types of equipment regularly used for garment dyeing. Rotary drum machines are sometimes preferred for garments, which require gentler handling, such as sweaters. A high liquor ratio is required for paddle machines, which is less economical and may limit shade reproducibility. Many machinery companies have developed sophisticated rotary dyeing machines, which incorporate state-of-the-art technology. Following machines are generally used for garment dyeing

    Garment Dyeing Machines
    1.Paddle Dyeing Machines
    A process of dyeing textiles in a machine that gently move the goods using paddles similar to a paddle wheel on a boat. This is a slow process, but there is extremely little abrasion on the goods. Horizontal Paddle Machines (over head paddle machine) consist of a curved beck like lower suction to contain the materials and the dye liquor. The goods are moved by a rotating paddle, which extends across the width of the machine. Half immersed paddles cause the material to move upwards and downwards through out the liquor. The temperature can be raised to 98o C in such system.

    In lateral / oval paddle machines consist of oval tank to enhance the fluid flow and the processing the goods. In the middle of this tank is a closed oval island. The paddle moves in a lateral direction and is not half submerged in the liquor and the temperature can be increased up to 98o C.

    HT Paddle Machines work according to the principle of horizontal paddle machine, however, the temperature can be raised up to 140o C. PES articles are preferably dyed on HT paddles. In paddle machines, the dyeing can be carried out with 30:1 to 40:1, lower ratios reduces optimum movement of the goods, lead to unlevel dyeing, crease formation. For gentleness, the blades of the paddle are either curved or have rounded edges and the rotating speed of the paddle can be regulated from 1.5 to 40 rpm. Circulation of the liquor should be strong enough to prevent goods from sinking to the bottom. Paddle machines are suitable for dyeing articles of all substrates in all forms of make ups. The goods are normally dyed using PP/PET bags.

    2.Rotary Drum Dyeing Machines
    These machines work on the principle of “movement of textile material and a stationary liquor”.The rotary drum dyeing machine consists of rotating perforated cylindrical drum , which rotates slowly inside a vessel of slightly bigger in size. The internal drum is divided into compartments to ensure rotation of goods with the drum rotation, and the outer vessel holds the required quantity of dye liquor. High temperature drum machines are capable of processing the garments up to 140o C.

    Features of modern rotary-dyeing equipment include the following:
    1. lower liquor ratio
    2. gentle movement of goods and liquor (minimizes surface abrasion)
    3. rapid heating and cooling
    4. centrifugal extraction
    5. variable drum speed with reversal capability (adaptable to a wide variety of goods)
    6. continuous circulation of goods (improves migration control)
    7. easy of sampling
    8. variable water levels with overflow rinsing capabilities
    9. large diameter feed and discharge lines (minimizes filling and draining time)
    10. microprocessor controls
    11. lint filters
    12. pressure dyeing
    13. auto-balancing drums

    One feature that can be used to reduce abrasion on delicate garments or to minimize tangling is a compartmental chamber, sometimes referred to as a “Y” pocke
    .The rotary drum machines are very simple to operate and are quite compact in size. The cost of unit is also not high .

    Drum dyeing-centrifuging machines are also called “multipurpose drum machines” or “multi-rapid dyeing centrifuging machines” since these machines can perform scouring, dyeing, centrifuging and conditioning successively with automated controls. The goods are treated in a perforated inner drum housed within an outer drum (dyeing tank). Inner drums without dividing walls are provided with ribs that carry the goods along for a certain time, partially lifting them up out of the liquor. These machines can operate at very low liquor ratios and can dye the goods up to 98 -140o C. This is suitable for knits as well as other garments. Liquor circulation can be intensified using additional jets. Drums can be rotated in both the directions.

    3. Tumbler Dyeing Machines
    These machines are being used for small garments either in loose form or in open mesh bags. Design wise the tumbler dyeing machines are similar to the commercial laundering machines.

    The principle of operation is to load the material into perforated inner SS tanks , which rotates round a horizontal shaft fixed at the back of the drum. The drum is divided into compartments for moving the goods with rotation of drum. A variety of tumbling machines have higher rotation speeds and can spin dry at the end of the cycle. These are similar to dry-cleaning machines.

    Rotating drum machines are more efficient and cleaner to operate than paddle machines. The more vigorous mechanical action often promotes more shrinkage and bulking, which may be desirable for some articles. In order to handle higher quantities and large production of similar pieces the latest machines are provided with several automatic features and sophistication.

    4.Toroid Dyeing Machines

    Toroid Dyeing Machines
    In these machines the garments circulate in the liquor in a toroidal path with the aid of an impeller situated below the perforated false bottom of the vessel. Movement of the goods depends completely on the pumped action of the liquor. High-temperature versions of this machine operating at 120 to 130°C were developed in the 1970s for dyeing fully-fashioned polyester or triacetate garments. The liquor ratio of such machines is about 30:1.

    5.The Gyrobox
    The machine has support in the form of a large wheel, which is divided into 12 independent non radial compartments. The goods are placed in these compartments .The wheel runs at a moderate speed of 2-6 rpm.The main advantage of this machine are,

    1.Reduced M:L
    2.Different types of garments can be dyed simulteneously .
    3.Flexible loading
    4.Fully automatic operation.
    6.The MCS Readymade garment dyeing machine

    The rotodye machines are suitable for dyeing pure cotton,wool,polyester,cotton blends in the form of T shirts, sweaters, bath rugs and accessories , socks and stockings.

    6.Modified Pegg Toroid Whiteley Garment Dyeing Machine
    This is an improved version of Toroid machines , the additional features are

    1.The machine is suitable for both atmospheric and pressure dyeing.
    2.Full automation upto hydroextraction.
    3.The design features,speed and performance is simplified to make the machine more versatile and free from operating problems.

    Advantages of Garment Dyeing

    1. Handling of smaller lots economically
    2. Enables various special effects to achieved
    3. Distressed look can be effectively imparted
    4. Unsold light shades can be converted into medium and deep shades
    By the time the garment has been in a boiling dyebath and then tumble-dried, it will have adopted its lowest energy state and will not suffer further shrinkage under consumer washing conditions

    Latest fashion trends can be effectively incorporated through garment wet processing by immediate feedback from the customer

    Disadvantages of Garment Dyeing

    1. High cost of processing
    2. A little complicated dyeing
    Garment accessories like zips, buttons, etc impose restrictions. The garments produced from woven fabrics create many problems and it has been found that the existing textile treatment styles as developed for piece dyed fabric cannot be just assembled for garment wet processing operation such as garment dyeing, unless they have been engineered from the original design stage for garment dyeing.

    The factors governing processing of ready-made garments are
    • Sewing Thread
    • Metal Components. Shrink behavior
    • Accessories
    • Foreign substances
    • Interlining
    • Care labeling.

    Experiment name: Analysis of woven fabric(Diamond).
    Object:
    1.To sketch the structure of fabric.
    2.To know about the raw material of fabric.
    3.To know about different specifications of fabric.

    Sample: 
     

    Apparatus:
    1. Counting glass,
    2. Needle,
    3. Beesleys balance,
    4. Twist tester,
    5. GSM cutter,
    6. Graph paper.

    Analysis:
    1. Weave plan: In graph the gaps between the lines are considered according to X axis as weft threads and according to Y axis as warp threads. The up threads are indicated by filling up the gaps and down threads without filling up the gaps.

    2. Drafting plan: According to British system drafting plan is drawn at the top of weave plan. Here pointed draft is used to draft the plan.

    3. Lifting plan: The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan.

    4. Face side and backside: The face and backside can be easily understood.

    5. Direction of warp and weft: Direction of both warp and weft are indicated by arrow marks by the side of the sample.

    6. Raw material: Both warp and weft yarns are cotton.

    7. Thread density:
    No. of reading
    EPI
    Average
    PPI
    Average
    1
    56
    54
    39
    40
    2
    55
    40
    3
    53
    37
    4
    54
    38
    5
    52
    41

    8. Yarn count:
    No. of reading
    Warp count
    Average
    Weft count
    Average
    1
    18


    20
    7


    9
    2
    19
    10
    3
    21
    9
    4
    20
    8
    5
    22
    11

    9. Yarn twist:
    No. of reading
    Warp twist
    Average
    Weft twist
    Average
    1
    3


    4
    3


    5
    2
    5
    6
    3
    4
    4
    4
    3
    5
    5
    6
    6

    10. Direction of twist: Both warp and weft yarns are ‘Z’ twisted.
    11. Design of fabric: The formula number of this fabric is .

    12. GSM calculation: We take one square inch fabric sample and find its weight 0.1116 gm.

    We know 1 inch = 2.54 cm i.e. 0.0254 m. So, 1 sq. inch = 0.02542 sq. m.

    Now, 0.02542 sq. m sample wt. = 0.1116 gm.

    1 sq. m sample wt. = 173 gm.

    Therefore GSM of fabric is 267 gm/meter2.


    13. Repeat size: The repeat size of this fabric is 18´18.


    14. Type of loom: Tappet loom is used to produce this fabric.


    End Use:  
    This type of fabric is used for making towel, bedsheet, pillow cover, table cloth and so on.

    Conclusion: 
    Analysis of fabric structure is very essential to know about the fabric. Because it gives all kinds of information about the fabric that is needed to reproduce or to change structure or design of fabric. By this practical I learn how to analyse primarily a simple plain structure of woven fabric.

    Analysis of Diamond Woven Fabric Structure | Specification of DiamondWoven Fabric

    Posted at  14:58  |  in  regular  |  Continue lendo ...»

    Experiment name: Analysis of woven fabric(Diamond).
    Object:
    1.To sketch the structure of fabric.
    2.To know about the raw material of fabric.
    3.To know about different specifications of fabric.

    Sample: 
     

    Apparatus:
    1. Counting glass,
    2. Needle,
    3. Beesleys balance,
    4. Twist tester,
    5. GSM cutter,
    6. Graph paper.

    Analysis:
    1. Weave plan: In graph the gaps between the lines are considered according to X axis as weft threads and according to Y axis as warp threads. The up threads are indicated by filling up the gaps and down threads without filling up the gaps.

    2. Drafting plan: According to British system drafting plan is drawn at the top of weave plan. Here pointed draft is used to draft the plan.

    3. Lifting plan: The lifting plan is drawn at the right side of the weave plan.

    4. Face side and backside: The face and backside can be easily understood.

    5. Direction of warp and weft: Direction of both warp and weft are indicated by arrow marks by the side of the sample.

    6. Raw material: Both warp and weft yarns are cotton.

    7. Thread density:
    No. of reading
    EPI
    Average
    PPI
    Average
    1
    56
    54
    39
    40
    2
    55
    40
    3
    53
    37
    4
    54
    38
    5
    52
    41

    8. Yarn count:
    No. of reading
    Warp count
    Average
    Weft count
    Average
    1
    18


    20
    7


    9
    2
    19
    10
    3
    21
    9
    4
    20
    8
    5
    22
    11

    9. Yarn twist:
    No. of reading
    Warp twist
    Average
    Weft twist
    Average
    1
    3


    4
    3


    5
    2
    5
    6
    3
    4
    4
    4
    3
    5
    5
    6
    6

    10. Direction of twist: Both warp and weft yarns are ‘Z’ twisted.
    11. Design of fabric: The formula number of this fabric is .

    12. GSM calculation: We take one square inch fabric sample and find its weight 0.1116 gm.

    We know 1 inch = 2.54 cm i.e. 0.0254 m. So, 1 sq. inch = 0.02542 sq. m.

    Now, 0.02542 sq. m sample wt. = 0.1116 gm.

    1 sq. m sample wt. = 173 gm.

    Therefore GSM of fabric is 267 gm/meter2.


    13. Repeat size: The repeat size of this fabric is 18´18.


    14. Type of loom: Tappet loom is used to produce this fabric.


    End Use:  
    This type of fabric is used for making towel, bedsheet, pillow cover, table cloth and so on.

    Conclusion: 
    Analysis of fabric structure is very essential to know about the fabric. Because it gives all kinds of information about the fabric that is needed to reproduce or to change structure or design of fabric. By this practical I learn how to analyse primarily a simple plain structure of woven fabric.

    Block Printing
    The printing of fabric by hand, using carved wooden or linoleum blocks, as distinguished from printing by screens or roller is called block printing. Block printing is a special form of printing first developed in China. The earliest known example with an actual date is a copy of the Diamond Sutra from 868 A.D (currently in the British Museum), though the practice of block printing is probably about two thousand years old.

    Procedure of Block Printing 
    The fabric to be printed is washed free of starch and soft bleached if the natural gray of the fabric is not desired. If dyeing is required as in the case of saris where borders or the body is tied and dyed it is done before printing. The fabric is again washed to remove excess dye and dried thoroughly. The fabric is stretched over the printing table and fastened with small pins. This is an important stage as there should be a uniform tension in the fabric and no ripples. Color is mixed separately in another room. Usually pigment dyes are used for cotton.

    The first step in block printing is the production of the original document. This is laid on a
    large, smooth wooden block and fixed into place, reversed. Next, craftsmen of various skill levels, ranging from master carvers for the fine work to less talented artisans for cheaper blocks or less important sections, carve the original painted, drawn or written image into the block of wood. The block can now be covered with ink and used in a press to create duplicates of the original. 
    Color paste must be applied to the block surface in a controlled manner, and this was achieved by using a ‘sieve’. A small tub was nearly filled with a starch paste and a waterproof fabric, stretched on a frame, rested on the paste. A piece of woolen fabric was stretched on a slightly smaller frame and fastened to make the sieve. The sieve as saturated with color paste and placed on the waterproof fabric. For each impression, the ‘tiered’ (a boy) spread the color paste on the top surface of the woolen sieve with a large brush and the printer charged the block by pressing it on the wool. The block was then carefully positioned on the fabric, using the pitch pins as guides, and struck with a mallet. After printing a table length with the first block, the second was printed and then any others required to complete the design. 

    After Treatment of Block Printing
    The fabric, after printing is dried out in the sun. This is part of the fixing process or aftertreatment of printing. It is then rolled in wads of newspapers to prevent the dye from adhering to other layers and steamed in boilers constructed for the purpose. Silks are also steamed this way after printing. After steaming, the material is washed thoroughly in large quantities of water and dried in the sun, after which it is finished by ironing out single layers, which fix the color permanently.

    Block Printing Style | Procedure of Block Printing on Fabric | AfterTreatment of Block Printing

    Posted at  04:30  |  in  regular  |  Continue lendo ...»

    Block Printing
    The printing of fabric by hand, using carved wooden or linoleum blocks, as distinguished from printing by screens or roller is called block printing. Block printing is a special form of printing first developed in China. The earliest known example with an actual date is a copy of the Diamond Sutra from 868 A.D (currently in the British Museum), though the practice of block printing is probably about two thousand years old.

    Procedure of Block Printing 
    The fabric to be printed is washed free of starch and soft bleached if the natural gray of the fabric is not desired. If dyeing is required as in the case of saris where borders or the body is tied and dyed it is done before printing. The fabric is again washed to remove excess dye and dried thoroughly. The fabric is stretched over the printing table and fastened with small pins. This is an important stage as there should be a uniform tension in the fabric and no ripples. Color is mixed separately in another room. Usually pigment dyes are used for cotton.

    The first step in block printing is the production of the original document. This is laid on a
    large, smooth wooden block and fixed into place, reversed. Next, craftsmen of various skill levels, ranging from master carvers for the fine work to less talented artisans for cheaper blocks or less important sections, carve the original painted, drawn or written image into the block of wood. The block can now be covered with ink and used in a press to create duplicates of the original. 
    Color paste must be applied to the block surface in a controlled manner, and this was achieved by using a ‘sieve’. A small tub was nearly filled with a starch paste and a waterproof fabric, stretched on a frame, rested on the paste. A piece of woolen fabric was stretched on a slightly smaller frame and fastened to make the sieve. The sieve as saturated with color paste and placed on the waterproof fabric. For each impression, the ‘tiered’ (a boy) spread the color paste on the top surface of the woolen sieve with a large brush and the printer charged the block by pressing it on the wool. The block was then carefully positioned on the fabric, using the pitch pins as guides, and struck with a mallet. After printing a table length with the first block, the second was printed and then any others required to complete the design. 

    After Treatment of Block Printing
    The fabric, after printing is dried out in the sun. This is part of the fixing process or aftertreatment of printing. It is then rolled in wads of newspapers to prevent the dye from adhering to other layers and steamed in boilers constructed for the purpose. Silks are also steamed this way after printing. After steaming, the material is washed thoroughly in large quantities of water and dried in the sun, after which it is finished by ironing out single layers, which fix the color permanently.

    Step cleaner machine is an inportant machine in ring spinning for cleaning and opening impurities from cotton. This machine is set normally after porcupine opener machine.

    Object of Step/ ultra/Super Cleaner Machine
    i. To open & clear the cotton by combinations of opposite spike action & the beating action.
    ii. To remove the impurities such as leaves, stalk, motes & sand without damage the fiber.

    Main Parts :
    i. Motor.
    ii. Motor pulley.
    iii. Beaters.
    iv. Baffle plate.
    v. Grid.

    Step Cleaner
    Main Setting Point :
    Set to do the require amount as cleaning close grid bars, setting gives good opening & large grid bar setting gives poor opening, other setting points are, Beater to Grid bar = 1“ & beater to beater = 8“.

    Specification :
    i. Motor r.p.m = 695
    ii. Dia of the beater = 18.6“
    iii. Dia of two pulley = 21.2“
    iv. Dia of one pulley = 16“
    v. No. of striker = 26

    Calculation :
              Beater r.p.m = 695*(16“/21.2“)
                                       = 524.5
              Beater per min. = 524.5*26
                                   = 13637
    Conclusion :
    This is the second m/c of blow room line. It works step by step & for this it is called step cleaner. It is a good instrument of opening & cleaning of cotton by the action of beater. It also removes ascertain a out of leaves, stalk & other impurities. It is suitable for process of low grade cotton.

    Step Cleaner/Ultra Cleaner/Super Cleaner | Object of Step/ Ultra/ SuperCleaner Machine

    Posted at  03:36  |  in  Spinning  |  Continue lendo ...»

    Step cleaner machine is an inportant machine in ring spinning for cleaning and opening impurities from cotton. This machine is set normally after porcupine opener machine.

    Object of Step/ ultra/Super Cleaner Machine
    i. To open & clear the cotton by combinations of opposite spike action & the beating action.
    ii. To remove the impurities such as leaves, stalk, motes & sand without damage the fiber.

    Main Parts :
    i. Motor.
    ii. Motor pulley.
    iii. Beaters.
    iv. Baffle plate.
    v. Grid.

    Step Cleaner
    Main Setting Point :
    Set to do the require amount as cleaning close grid bars, setting gives good opening & large grid bar setting gives poor opening, other setting points are, Beater to Grid bar = 1“ & beater to beater = 8“.

    Specification :
    i. Motor r.p.m = 695
    ii. Dia of the beater = 18.6“
    iii. Dia of two pulley = 21.2“
    iv. Dia of one pulley = 16“
    v. No. of striker = 26

    Calculation :
              Beater r.p.m = 695*(16“/21.2“)
                                       = 524.5
              Beater per min. = 524.5*26
                                   = 13637
    Conclusion :
    This is the second m/c of blow room line. It works step by step & for this it is called step cleaner. It is a good instrument of opening & cleaning of cotton by the action of beater. It also removes ascertain a out of leaves, stalk & other impurities. It is suitable for process of low grade cotton.

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